Originally Posted by M-Technic

I'm in a bit of a pickle as far as the balance of my car goes. My batteries are quite heavy, and even with large/heavy ESC, motor fan, etc., I have to add almost 50 grams of weight to the electronic's side of the car to get it to balance left-right. I end up way over our weight limit of 1380g, by 40-50 grams IIRC.

Would it make any difference at all if I were to flip the drive train configuration to the NiMH configuration with the belts flipped? I'm afraid it won't make much difference at all, since it doesn't actually transfer much (if any) weight in and of itself.

I'm just thinking of ways that I can balance the chassis without having to add so much weight to the car.

Originally Posted by Mb3195

I'd imagine it will save a bit, but not much, but how heavy are you're batteries? I use 5600 50c Moorespeeds, they only weigh 280g, my balance is PERFECT without adding any weight left or right.

Originally Posted by hanulec

Real batteries as of 2011/2012 weight 320-330g.

Originally Posted by bucketboy

Don't see the point in running high C batteries unless you are running mod, even then wouldn't you use most of that extra capacity moving the extra weight ?

Bb

Originally Posted by Mb3195

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=t3_2012&ID=51

Here you go mate, if I need more back end I tend to lower my rear pins slightly. I also run my shocks in one hole front and back when running moorespeed tyres.

Originally Posted by hanulec

Modified and boosted - u can pretty much run any decent pack. A weak pack might be an advantage in mod to reduce the snap out of the corner.
Stock racing needs great batteries.

Originally Posted by hanulec

Modified and boosted - u can pretty much run any decent pack. A weak pack might be an advantage in mod to reduce the snap out of the corner.
Stock racing needs great batteries.

Originally Posted by FLAT OUT

many thanks for posting this, I have a few questions. You mention lowering the rear pins slightly ?? Can you explain this. Looking at you setup sheet I have a few questions also

1, 2mm shim under the front end rear suspension mount, is this for anti dive ??

2, rear wheel base, is it 1mm in front of the rear arms ??

3, 2mm shim under front shock, can I ask what this does.

4, what rear roll centre mounts are you running 0.00, 0.75 ???

Many thanks for you help

Originally Posted by locked

higher capacity batteries can hold a higher voltage longer and drop less under load, so although you might not actually need the extra run-time, they do make a difference in speed/punch and staying faster for a longer time.

Originally Posted by bucketboy

That is completely opposite to what I noticed in 1/12th 10.5 blinky. Higher capacity have a slight power drop off after 2mins, lower capacity warm up and hold the voltage longer. I dont pretend to uderstand why but I have been told that its something to do with the optimal temp and internal resistance. Lap times seem to confirm it.

High C rating does give more punch and may give an edge in 10th TC but I have a £20 practice battery from China that "feels slower" but lap times aren't any different I certainly wouldn't run extra weight to gain a few hundred mah,the motor would have to work harder for a start.

Bb

Originally Posted by Mb3195

Moorespeed batteries are quicker than any other I've tried or tested! Andy Moore seems to do pretty well with them!

Originally Posted by MikeXray

Not when Mike Haynes can beat him on carpet