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Xray T3 2012

Old 12-02-2011, 08:52 AM
  #811  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
I'm in a bit of a pickle as far as the balance of my car goes. My batteries are quite heavy, and even with large/heavy ESC, motor fan, etc., I have to add almost 50 grams of weight to the electronic's side of the car to get it to balance left-right. I end up way over our weight limit of 1380g, by 40-50 grams IIRC.

Would it make any difference at all if I were to flip the drive train configuration to the NiMH configuration with the belts flipped? I'm afraid it won't make much difference at all, since it doesn't actually transfer much (if any) weight in and of itself.

I'm just thinking of ways that I can balance the chassis without having to add so much weight to the car.
I'd imagine it will save a bit, but not much, but how heavy are you're batteries? I use 5600 50c Moorespeeds, they only weigh 280g, my balance is PERFECT without adding any weight left or right.
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
I'd imagine it will save a bit, but not much, but how heavy are you're batteries? I use 5600 50c Moorespeeds, they only weigh 280g, my balance is PERFECT without adding any weight left or right.
Real batteries as of 2011/2012 weight 320-330g.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Real batteries as of 2011/2012 weight 320-330g.
Don't see the point in running high C batteries unless you are running mod, even then wouldn't you use most of that extra capacity moving the extra weight ?

Bb
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bucketboy View Post
Don't see the point in running high C batteries unless you are running mod, even then wouldn't you use most of that extra capacity moving the extra weight ?

Bb
higher capacity batteries can hold a higher voltage longer and drop less under load, so although you might not actually need the extra run-time, they do make a difference in speed/punch and staying faster for a longer time.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:40 AM
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My batteries are about 325g.

They are 6000 60c's and I do find the less voltage drop to be helpful as the only class I run is mod touring with a boosted 5.0t.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=t3_2012&ID=51

Here you go mate, if I need more back end I tend to lower my rear pins slightly. I also run my shocks in one hole front and back when running moorespeed tyres.
many thanks for posting this, I have a few questions. You mention lowering the rear pins slightly ?? Can you explain this. Looking at you setup sheet I have a few questions also

1, 2mm shim under the front end rear suspension mount, is this for anti dive ??

2, rear wheel base, is it 1mm in front of the rear arms ??

3, 2mm shim under front shock, can I ask what this does.

4, what rear roll centre mounts are you running 0.00, 0.75 ???

Many thanks for you help
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:23 AM
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Modified and boosted - u can pretty much run any decent pack. A weak pack might be an advantage in mod to reduce the snap out of the corner.
Stock racing needs great batteries.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Modified and boosted - u can pretty much run any decent pack. A weak pack might be an advantage in mod to reduce the snap out of the corner.
Stock racing needs great batteries.
Moorespeed batteries are quicker than any other I've tried or tested! Andy Moore seems to do pretty well with them!
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Modified and boosted - u can pretty much run any decent pack. A weak pack might be an advantage in mod to reduce the snap out of the corner.
Stock racing needs great batteries.
I don't need a weak battery to help me control the car, but I appreciate the concern.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by FLAT OUT View Post
many thanks for posting this, I have a few questions. You mention lowering the rear pins slightly ?? Can you explain this. Looking at you setup sheet I have a few questions also

1, 2mm shim under the front end rear suspension mount, is this for anti dive ??

2, rear wheel base, is it 1mm in front of the rear arms ??

3, 2mm shim under front shock, can I ask what this does.

4, what rear roll centre mounts are you running 0.00, 0.75 ???

Many thanks for you help
Hard work doing a setup sheet on an ipad

1) Didn't mean shim under the front end suspension mount, I've amended a couple of changes!!

2) yes - although run with 2mm in front on Rear on tight track

3) gives more steering

4) 0.00 or will run -0.75mm if grip low - this is what I meant by lowering rear pins

Sorry for the confusion, pm me if you need any other help
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
higher capacity batteries can hold a higher voltage longer and drop less under load, so although you might not actually need the extra run-time, they do make a difference in speed/punch and staying faster for a longer time.
That is completely opposite to what I noticed in 1/12th 10.5 blinky. Higher capacity have a slight power drop off after 2mins, lower capacity warm up and hold the voltage longer. I dont pretend to uderstand why but I have been told that its something to do with the optimal temp and internal resistance. Lap times seem to confirm it.

High C rating does give more punch and may give an edge in 10th TC but I have a 20 practice battery from China that "feels slower" but lap times aren't any different I certainly wouldn't run extra weight to gain a few hundred mah,the motor would have to work harder for a start.

Bb
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bucketboy View Post
That is completely opposite to what I noticed in 1/12th 10.5 blinky. Higher capacity have a slight power drop off after 2mins, lower capacity warm up and hold the voltage longer. I dont pretend to uderstand why but I have been told that its something to do with the optimal temp and internal resistance. Lap times seem to confirm it.

High C rating does give more punch and may give an edge in 10th TC but I have a 20 practice battery from China that "feels slower" but lap times aren't any different I certainly wouldn't run extra weight to gain a few hundred mah,the motor would have to work harder for a start.

Bb
I think you mean lower c rated batteries rather than lower mah batteries. A battery with higher mah will have less voltage drop but a lower c battery will run better in blinky.

28c batteries are thought to be ideal in blinky due to internal resistence, etc.

What I do know is though, I wouldnt swap a higher mah and c rated battery that weighs 50g more than what I already run, however, uk legal weight is 1350g, I know in the states it is 1400g so I can understand why those boys would do, they have alot more to play with than us.
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:07 PM
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I did not ask the question to spark a debate on the merits of high capacity or high C rating batteries.

I merely asked if it's worth switching the drivetrain configuration to help balance my car at a lower weight.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
Moorespeed batteries are quicker than any other I've tried or tested! Andy Moore seems to do pretty well with them!
Not when Mike Haynes can beat him on carpet
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Not when Mike Haynes can beat him on carpet
Any given day dude, any given day!!
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