LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

what about for a 5.5 ?

c0sie

Hi Steve,

Do you have anymore information on the Mongoose?

Any idea on motor KV ratings, and a potential release date?

Many thanks

Cris

PS: And motor weight if possible?

Steve Weiss

Um...that's what I said... about an 8.5 Final Drive ratio. With a 5.5R.

Steve Weiss

Hey COsie,

We haven't really finalized the KV's yet...those are going to be dependant on what factors we finalize on... sorry

I'm really not sure on the release date yet though... they are talking in terms of a few months though... so relatively soon.

c0sie

Thanks for the reply man

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

Steve, when replacing a Normal Sintered rotor with a 13mm Tuning rotor, what kind of gearing changes will someone need to make? Also, what kind power/driving changes will someone experience?

Currently on my T2 '007, I'm running a Novak 13.5 SS on a GTB, gearing between 4.185 to 4.411 FDR. The track at Mike's is currently setup like the Novak Race layout. Temps after 5-minutes were 175F at 4.185 FDR, and 155F at 4.411.

Thanks in advance, and sorry if asked before.

Steve Weiss

KN,

Usually with the 13.0 mm rotor we gear up two teeth on the pinion gear and that seems to get us into the ballpark for where we need to be.

The motor should have more of a naturual drag brake to it... more consistant brakes... they shouldn't fade nearly as much through a run... the motor temp should come down as well.

Some people feel that it has too much drag brake and need to chance their drag brake settings.

ckearns

Hi Steve,

Do you guys by chance have a 12.7mm or some other 'tweener tuning rotor on the drawing board?

I ran the 13.5SS with the 13.0mm rotor for the first time in a 12th scale this weekend. It seems like the stock sintered rotor has too little drag and the 13.0 has way too much.

I was loving the torque even with the tallest gears i could fit in the car installed.

Thanks,
Chris

Steve Weiss

Hey Chris,

Thanks for the input!

We are always working on new things around here and something "in-between" doesn't sound like too much to ask for...

Broady Racing

iTrader: (7)

Hi Steve , We have just fitted a velociti heat sink sleve to one of our ex motors and when putting the motor back together the 4-40 cap head screws will not fully tighten . They reach the end of the motor and spin but will not tighten further . Thanks in advance

Steve Weiss

Hey Broady,

Thats sounds pretty strange... are you sure that the heatsink sleeve is fully seated agains the back end bell... if not the long 4-40 screws may not have enough threads to grab into properly.

Also double check the screws themselves... make sure the threads haven't worn or broken off at the very ends.

If there's something wrong with the screws I can have some sent out to you.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

Steve.. NUB question...

What gearing should I start at for the 10.5 SS (new setup with SINTERED rotor).. For say a LaMirada/Tamiya size track.. I frequently wander around the mid 5's (5.5-5.7) with CHECKPOINT and REEDY 19t. Can I treat this Brushless thing the same way??..

Also, is there a BLACK fan option for the GTB??...

thanks
-O

Steve Weiss

Hey Orlando!

I usually tell people to start out around 5.5 and go up if they can from there temperatures permitting... I think some guys get them up in the 4.8 range.

The only black fan that we offer is the 25x25x10 fan... alot of guys have been running it

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

cool... thanks...

trailranger

Steve in reading on the NOVAK website, it says to use a 47uf capacitor bridged between the positive and negitive motor tabs for low frequency ESC's. I have also heard that based upon the motor rpm you can size a capacitor to help eliminate the ripple current that can damage an ESC and improve motor performace by 1~2%.

Has novak considered making a TransCap/Diode module for brushed motors. I understand there are EMF filtering caps of .1uf but all they do really is block some of the noise, not improve on the motor.