BMI 1/12 conversion/car
#1036
I am not totally sure, but you could ask him.
#1037
Ran again today. The layout is slightly different and all the traction is gone. The car still handles well, it just rotates more; it's a very predictable car. Still smooth, fast and easy to keep tight lines; you can put it anywhere. I just need practice so I can go 8 minutes without brushing a few boards. Indoor is pretty much dead now so I have all summer to practice. I'll be keeping the side shocks on my car.
#1038
fatdoggy...
Glad to here it went well... I'm sure you'll be able to do alot of testing this summer!! The set ups with this chassis are endless!!
jumbo360,
Most anodizers are about 45 to 75 bucks a "lot" charge. Take a look threw your local yellow pages, that's what I did
Wayne
Glad to here it went well... I'm sure you'll be able to do alot of testing this summer!! The set ups with this chassis are endless!!
jumbo360,
Most anodizers are about 45 to 75 bucks a "lot" charge. Take a look threw your local yellow pages, that's what I did
Wayne
#1039
is the kit still avaliable?
#1041
Race Results
Well... After 3 days of racing at "The Gate" there were 3 BMI 1/12 conversions in the A-main!! Not a bad showing!! I was TQ and finished 2nd, Dave Morrow finished 4th, and Tony Williams ended up 7th... Our 1/12 season is coming to an end, but there will be racing during the summer during the week to stay sharp and do some more testing
Wayne
Wayne
Last edited by sg1; 04-12-2005 at 08:31 AM.
#1042
Wayne
I was wondering if a Tfource could be converted to BMI 1/12 ?If so what all comes in the kit.
mike
I was wondering if a Tfource could be converted to BMI 1/12 ?If so what all comes in the kit.
mike
#1043
Hey mike,
If I remember correctly.. The Tforce should fit right on. The front suspension will fit on, center shock, t-plate, dampening tubes, and diff. The conversion has all the graphite pieces, stand-offs, dampening post if you want to run disks, pod plates, and some fasteners.
Wayne
If I remember correctly.. The Tforce should fit right on. The front suspension will fit on, center shock, t-plate, dampening tubes, and diff. The conversion has all the graphite pieces, stand-offs, dampening post if you want to run disks, pod plates, and some fasteners.
Wayne
#1045
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Got Mine
Yesterday.UPS tried to destroy it,but it came thru unscathed.lol.Beautiful piece of kit.If it runs 1/2 as good as it looks.......Looking forward to the build.Couple of questions...for starts....Servo flat?or angled?T-bar,.063 or.075?I liked the 5 degree blocks on my L4,similar feel for this or?Center shock,Start with 30/35 wt,olive spring?Or does it like a stiffer setup?Just looking for general start points,will fine tune at the track.Thanks,Mario.
#1046
Originally posted by sg1
Have any of you guys with the BMI 1/12 conversion tried the old style Assoc. front end yet??
Wayne
Have any of you guys with the BMI 1/12 conversion tried the old style Assoc. front end yet??
Wayne
Tim
#1047
Mario,
Start with the servo flat and the ball studs on the back side of the servo saver. I like the 10 deg. blocks with .020 springs and 1 deg. of camber. I start with a .073" to .075" t-bar, dampening washers with 100wt. shock oil as a lube. 35wt. oil and olive center spring. I try to start about 4.5mm clearance at the rear of the chassis and 4mm in the front of the chassis. Then set the pod to sit level. Make sure the shock can travel in both directions and the piston doesn't bottom out. Battery position makes a big difference. Try starting in the middle.
Tim,
I ran both, and with the 3 shock set up the car was better with the old front end. The new style front end felt better with the dampening washers. Too many options...lol...
Wayne
Start with the servo flat and the ball studs on the back side of the servo saver. I like the 10 deg. blocks with .020 springs and 1 deg. of camber. I start with a .073" to .075" t-bar, dampening washers with 100wt. shock oil as a lube. 35wt. oil and olive center spring. I try to start about 4.5mm clearance at the rear of the chassis and 4mm in the front of the chassis. Then set the pod to sit level. Make sure the shock can travel in both directions and the piston doesn't bottom out. Battery position makes a big difference. Try starting in the middle.
Tim,
I ran both, and with the 3 shock set up the car was better with the old front end. The new style front end felt better with the dampening washers. Too many options...lol...
Wayne