SA_Racer

This is a piece of art. I don’t think I should race it cos ill probably just wreck it

Seriously though, I am a newbie to this so need some assistance in getting the car setup properly and ready to race.

I have bought some extra shocks to use for the sides and have silver and olive springs, can also get other springs if these won’t do.

What would you guys recommend as a base setup for a complete noob in 1/12 modified?

All I want to do now is be consistent without wrecking the car. I don’t care too much about having the fastest time, I’m sure that will come with a bit of experience

sg1

iTrader: (79)

SA_Racer,
Will you be running on asphalt? If so....
Front:
12L4 front suspension
10 deg. uprights
.022 springs
1 deg. camber
no brace
purple fronts or plaid fronts
servo mounted flat and ball studs behind servo saver
shim ball stud on stearing block so turnbuckle is flat.
4 or 4.5 mm clearance


Rear:
thin t-bar
dampening washers with 2000wt. oil
35wt oil. olive spring
Pink tires
4.5 to 5mm clearance
set center shock length approx. .10" longer then needed by
trimming ball cups. droop will be set correctly.

If you use the side shocks, tap the inner most holes on the cross brace 4/40 and the top plate too. Mount the ball studs right to the top plate and use 2 #4 washers under the ball studs on the chassis brace. Put RPM ball cups on the shocks, they are the correct length so the pistons don't bottom out. Try 45 wt. oil and gold springs. Make sure you take the tweek screws out with the side shocks! If you can't find the springs let me know. Should be a good base point to start.
Wayne

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Lynn...
Did you get to try Jason's car yet???

SA_Racer

Thanks for the help.

Can I use Double Sided tape to mount the servo or should I use Shoo Goo?

Thanks again for the help. now lets hope this rain stops so I can go racing tomorrow

sg1

iTrader: (79)

SA_Racer...
Shoe goo!!! I set mine up with the turnbuckles on and eye ball it in place... If it looks good then put some shoe goo on the bottom of the servo and c-clamp it in place over night. Check every once in a while to make sure it doesn't move on you.
Good Luck!!
Wayne

SA_Racer

Wayne

I am almost done exept for the gear ratio

I will be running a 10x2 and have a 72t 48pitch spur fitted, what pinion would be a good start.

As for the servo, I have converted a old TC servo mount to fit the servo as I dont have a clamp to clamp the servo down. it seems to be holding nicely but only time will tell.

Also should I remove the support between the front uprights?

sg1

iTrader: (79)

SA_Racer...
Don't use the graphite brace... It's off and will twist the chassis. I'm gonna guess on a pinion... I may be way off.. but I would try 21-72 with 1.85" tires to start. That would put you equiv. to a 28-98 in 64 pitch. Try a few laps.. If the motor gets hot and feels like it's not peaking down the straight gear down 1 or visa versa.. if it's peaked out too soon go up 1.
Wayne

SA_Racer

Thanks for the help buddy.

ill post a pic soon.

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Cool... I can't wait to see it!!
Wayne

SA_Racer

I think the servo may be too far back so I may insert spacers between the servo and the servo mount.

I have not put in the side shocks, I'll see if I can get some gold springs first

how do I check the tweak?

sg1

iTrader: (79)

SA_Racer...
A few things to look at...
1) Looking from the rear, move the shim on the top left front a-arm to the rear. The mold is off and the lower a-arm is back. This will keep the castor the same.
2) Make sure the turnbuckles are parallel with the chassis.. If need be shim the ball stud on the stearing block up some.
3) Servo position looks good, make sure the overall length of each turnbuckle is the same.
4) The plugs may cause a problem with the body. With a Parma body, I have to run the wires next to the shock and go under the graphite top plate. Going over the top will hit the body. The body should just touch the top plate.
5) Same with the battery terminals... Angle them between the batteries, they need to be low.

The servo looks secure... and the car looks neet and clean!! Make sure you have enough dampening in the washers. If there is not enough the car will want to square off.

Wayne

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Tweek...

Make sure your tires all the same diameter left to right... then make sure the front springs are not sagged... See if there is a gap between the bottom of the stearing block and lower a-arm pivot. If there is add a shim to take that away. Make sure your tweek screws are touching the chassis and from the bottom the rear pod plate and chassis look level. Now your ready for tweeking... Set the car on a flat area, then from the rear pick it up from under the lower pod plate where the small hole is. That hole is the center line of the car. I usually use an exacto and just slowly lift it up. Watch the rear tires, see which one comes up first. The one that does is the light one, so turn down the opposite side tweek screw 1/4 of a turn. Then try it again.. It may take a bit to initially get it set, but it will stay fairly well after that. When you are done, make sure both tweek screws are touching the chassis the whole time the pod is moving. If they don't screw the tweek screws down equally so they are down and recheck the tweek. Sounds like a mess... but once you get it, it's only minor adj. after that!!
Wayne

SA_Racer

I have now removed the deans plugs connecting to the motor. I also shortened the wire between the batteries and changed the connectors on the batteries.

as for the shims, I just need to verify... Do you want me to remove the white shim at the front of the left A-Arm and move it to the back of the arm, thus moving the top bit forward so that I would have 2 shims at the back? do I leave the right hand side centred?

PS: Latest Pic follows

SA_Racer

Neat cables

SA_Racer

Front view