BMI 1/12 conversion/car
#886
JJ187RC,
Car looks good.. There are battery stops that should be mounted where the slot is between the batteries, unfortunately there not done yet. As soon as they are finished I'll get some out to you. They make it easy to put your batteries in the same spot all the time.. If you get a chance, try the servo flat on the chassis. You'll get better stearing, the angled mounts are for really bumpy tracks.
JLMG1971...
The conversion goes for $135.00... I'm not sure about the shipping. It will be shipped from BMI in Florida. Try contacting BMI directly for an accurate amount. I wouldn't want to tell you the wrong number.
Wayne
Car looks good.. There are battery stops that should be mounted where the slot is between the batteries, unfortunately there not done yet. As soon as they are finished I'll get some out to you. They make it easy to put your batteries in the same spot all the time.. If you get a chance, try the servo flat on the chassis. You'll get better stearing, the angled mounts are for really bumpy tracks.
JLMG1971...
The conversion goes for $135.00... I'm not sure about the shipping. It will be shipped from BMI in Florida. Try contacting BMI directly for an accurate amount. I wouldn't want to tell you the wrong number.
Wayne
#887
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by JJ187RC
With as much steering as this thing has now, I can't imagine running the batteries forward for even more steering though.
With as much steering as this thing has now, I can't imagine running the batteries forward for even more steering though.
I promised to put more picture up last week. My daughter should be back in a couple days with the camera and I'll post some more. With the Tekin G-10 I can mount it in about three completely different ways to change the weight balance.
take care
john
#888
JohnB
You got it dead on... the pendulum affect happens with the batteries farther back.... same with the motor...With the small spur compaired to a large spur gear...
I think you deserve an award for being the top "poster" here... And a good camera man... lol...
Wayne
You got it dead on... the pendulum affect happens with the batteries farther back.... same with the motor...With the small spur compaired to a large spur gear...
I think you deserve an award for being the top "poster" here... And a good camera man... lol...
Wayne
#889
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
I should be back at the track in a couple of weeks. I am going to experiment with the batery position on the car. I never really moved them woth my L4. I need to try things to see if I can pick it up with this car. Like I said, I drove Yang's (theisgroup) and loved it. Went back to my stock L4 and could see a noticable difference in the performance of the car. I wish we would have had more time with the car before our State Champ Race, maybe I could have finshed higher than 3rd. Oh well, it was all fun and good.
J. Henry
J. Henry
#890
J,
the setup I had on the car that morning was basically all stock. the front was .5 toe out with .20 springs. .075 tbar with all three screws, batts all the way rear, 10 degree caster blocks with one shim in front and one in rear. chassi was set to 4mm front and rear and 4.5 at the front of the rear pod. The car had masive steering. Had the travel down to 50% and enpoints at 76 on the helios.
i move the front toe down to 1 degree in and that slower the turning a great deal, but made it push in the turns. so maybe a 0 degree toe. should try the batts forward. I am think that with the batts forward there is less unsprung weight to less weight to transition from rear to front on turnin and that may settle the car down a little going in.
the setup I had on the car that morning was basically all stock. the front was .5 toe out with .20 springs. .075 tbar with all three screws, batts all the way rear, 10 degree caster blocks with one shim in front and one in rear. chassi was set to 4mm front and rear and 4.5 at the front of the rear pod. The car had masive steering. Had the travel down to 50% and enpoints at 76 on the helios.
i move the front toe down to 1 degree in and that slower the turning a great deal, but made it push in the turns. so maybe a 0 degree toe. should try the batts forward. I am think that with the batts forward there is less unsprung weight to less weight to transition from rear to front on turnin and that may settle the car down a little going in.
#891
J. Henry...
You'll see little changes make a big difference. The rigidity of the chassis is the main reason. Just work on a set up for your driving style. When I run and know the car is working is when I don't have to let off more then 1/2 throttle. It will carry alot of corner speed, just stay on the throttle
Wayne
You'll see little changes make a big difference. The rigidity of the chassis is the main reason. Just work on a set up for your driving style. When I run and know the car is working is when I don't have to let off more then 1/2 throttle. It will carry alot of corner speed, just stay on the throttle
Wayne
#893
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
my track has a lot of left turns...would it be in my best interest to tape all four cells on the left side for better handling? Two on bottom then two on top? I can cut the body out where the cells hit so the body sits at normal height. I think I'll put a picture of Jason's face on the cells too.
#899
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I probably won't be running mod this weekend, just stock. I will let you know though.
Oh yea, those are HPI ballcups for my Pro4 instead of RPM like you suggested. The have a smaller cup and seem to fit in the middle a lot better. The length is almost exactly the same as though.
take care
john
Oh yea, those are HPI ballcups for my Pro4 instead of RPM like you suggested. The have a smaller cup and seem to fit in the middle a lot better. The length is almost exactly the same as though.
take care
john