ForzaVeloce

You seem to miss the whole point of the design. The biggest advantage with the design is that you have no preassure build up by the shaft. The shafts displacment is constant and you do not need a bladder or anything else to compensate for displacment build up. Just so you know.. ! ;o)

JAM Racing

iTrader: (2)

as the rod at the top displaces the same amount as the bottom that leads to the ball joint their is no need for a bladder at all. (except for heat)

The only reason we have the bladders/foam is due to the unequal displacement of the rod side to cylinder side.

Serpent early shocks with their foam collar work fine but i wouldn't call them an emulsion shock but the tricks you can play with them are more than standard shock

if you build them closed you can preload the shock itself..in the compressed position ..when it extends it opens the foam opens up on the collar closed cell rubber

this leads to it carrying a rising rate on the spring which you are running
This is the best forum by the way and is possibly why we changed to serpents
regards Andrew

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Gary, in terms of damping, what feeling are you trying to achieve? Admittedly I haven't run the original serpent RCXX shocks, but there are quite a few tweaks that you can do to the RCM's to get them working much better. Just as a list, I've done the following;
Tamiya Bladders - Standard Serpent ones were, IMO, to inconsistent part to part)
Tamiya blue o-rings in the bottom - white supplied o-ring had too much shaft stiction.. however, these o-rings do need a bit of spacing as they are thinner. Currently have 0.6mm inside the bottom of each shock, no leaks.
Drilled top - This is a usual feel thing, run mine this way regardless now.

Also this past weekend, I experimented with using more holes/harder oil, and very much liked the feel of the shocks this way. Took away some of the initial pack in the shock, and better over the ripples we have out here.

I've got a load more thoughts from this past weekend, but I need a bit of time to process and write them down, so will post again later.

Ed

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

my buddy Irvin cole wins the tc mod race at the sweeps challange at bluediamond rc in new castle delware.

Kensei

Can I get this car down to 1,350gr?
Without all kinds of expensive solutions....?

SP13.5MMM
SP Cirtix
Orion Carbon Pro 6500mAh weight 290gr
Lightweight body LTC-R

If not, HMX M1 it's gonna be.......

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

if its not controlled class get the wires as short as possible.
use a light weight battery.

servo???*

titanium screws on top deck (or alu if you trust your driving )

alu rear shaft.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I have only added aluminum screws (all over) to mine.... with 2 gear diffs, a fan, standard electronics, and a 6000mAh battery it weighed at 1340. Team Associated's aluminum screw packs from Tower Hobbies are priced decently.... that can knock up to 30 off the car.

The nylon spool weighs 10g or so less than the stock steel piece. Aluminum rear shafts would shave 5-10 more, and replace all 7 turnbuckles with aluminum ones (about 2g a piece).

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

Sounds about right. I am running 25gr on my car to get to 1354

and that was with the old car. the new one I recon I ll need to put more weight or more fans

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Are aluminum shafts available from Serpent?..... Or you guys using a different brand? I'll be switching to the nylon spool this week, and new shafts would be great. I think I have as much fun shaving weight as I do racing! One thing I like about mod is you can ditch the fan and run a smaller battery.... which can save up to 30g also!

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

http://www.evilhobbyshop.com/Drivesh...2,PR-1021.html

rdlkgliders

iTrader: (21)

1313.7g with a 5600mah, viper vtx 10, savox 1251 low pro
2.0MM chassis

Kensei

These?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHB0

Or these?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSG34

Kensei

Ok, thank you guys

So I am gonna get me:

SER401470 Alu driveshaft
SER401533 Nylon spool
SER401429 Trackrod alu
SER401430 Camberlink alu (2 sets..?)

What about the seventh one?
Partnumber?

And then the Asso screwset? Partnumber....?

Holmenkollen

My standard 411TE weighs 1350 with just some alu. screws, the rest stock. Savox LP servo, HW120A, KO rx, IP5800 mah, SP-motor, LW body. I donīt think I could tell the difference between 1390g or 1350g on the track...

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

The aluminum screw set for the TC6 will give you a lot. The TC3/4 sets are standard and won't work. Tower also sells "packs" of aluminum screws (10?) in a variety of sizes. I bought 3x6/3x8 countersunk for chassis pieces, 3x6 buttonhead for the upper deck and other parts, and an assortment of the cap head screws that use a larger hex for rhe bulkheads.

If you can wait till this afternoon I'll link you to each type (PITA to do on my phone).