dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

I disagree with the performance of the serpent shocks. when the original shocks came out, it was hit or miss with the shaft rubbin' against the snap ring no matter how well the their built, additionally trying to build the shocks with even rebound was a plain in the butt. there was was nothing smooth about them.


BTW I built them correctly so no need to imply that I didn't.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

you need to buy the whole tree of inserts......... 401411.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hi Warren, Its not quite there yet, although I believe that I have the WCIC issues for Regina sorted out, I'll know for sure at IIC as its about the only place that runs that big a track with that much traction. If you come to IIC I will gladly share my setup with you (or anyone else), but I feel it needs just that one missing piece to be very good.

Yes I've been running the V2 motor mount with the 2.5 chassis and the 2.5 top deck. I have been using old a new shocks and V1 and V2 diffs (even the Exceede diff) and feel that out of the box the V2 parts are better. Not saying that well massaged V1 parts are bad, but if you don't want the extra work V2 is the way to go.

Don't think I missed that just assumed the above was a given, but thanks.

Thanks for the trick tips, I think I'm going to try to build a set like that and split them with the RCM up front and the RCXX (built as above) to see if it gets the result I'm looking for.

By the way welcome to Serpent.

I can't quite describe what I'm looking for, I actually believe I have it narrowed it down to the back of the car, but not entirely sure if its in the shocks, but it could be upper rc or rear bar.........I can tell you Ed, if you where to put carpet under your race report further down, I'm experiencing just about the same feel, the rotation doesn't feel right and the mid to exit understeer is just a little too much and when I dial in just a touch more overall steering the back gets into oversteer, yet the car feels not bad. If I could over exagerate for the sake of accuracy, sometimes the car just feels like it has bagged out shocks, like in a real car, that bounces that couple extra times, or rocks once or twice going over the railroad tracks.

I have noted your recommended shock build, just have to source the parts.....I'd like to try the RSD bladders too, to see what they are like.

Congrats on the win, get him to post his setup.

With those components I think you'll be very close. I run Ti screws all around except for the suspension mounts. I think you'll like the car.

I have run the Xray shafts, 52mm are the same as the Serpent 46mm shafts but the ball end with the pin cushion is larger, I have to do this when I run the Exceede diff, but otherwise the Serpent Aluminum shafts work very well and seem pretty strong.

I'd probably do some changes on them as well, lol. Even the TRF guys change the shocks around to all sorts of settings, so I think its not so easy as just slapping on a set and going fast.....the TRF are very nice though and seem to be the set standard.

The inserts are on a tree that has all the inserts from 1.2 to 1.8, part number is #401411. BUT you get the entire set with the car kit, not all the bars, but the inserts.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

No doubt, the snap ring did cause some problems.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Here are some button-head screws in different lengths....

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZLJ7&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZLJ9&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZLK1&P=7

Here are countersunk screws for the bottom of the chassis (if needed)....

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZLJ8&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZLK0&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZLK2&P=7

Here are some cap-head or "socket" screws. These work great for the bulkheads and upper deck, because the head is beefy enough that they don't strip. You could also mount the shocks with them.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBLPH&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBLPJ&P=7

I changed all of my bottom chassis screws from aluminum to what I thought were stainless steel, but it seems they are titanium.... because it barely added 5g of weight to the car! Changing the bottom screws from carbon steel to aluminum shaved more than that...... I got the screws loose from a friend, so I didn't know until I weighed them.

Mr. Wishbone --- can you post a link to your carpet setup? Or at least what you typically start with? I found one I liked for our low/med bite carpet track while it was open, and I'd like to compare them! OR if you've found a good starting point for high bite carpet..... I don't get many chances to test on it

Kensei

Thanks. You say changed the bottom chassis screws from aluminum to what you thought were stainless steel, but it seems they are titanium. You mean changed them from what you thought was stainless steel to aluminum? Or....

What is the difference between as you call it "bottom chassis screws" and "bottom screws from carbon steel"?

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Have you actually bought this car yet?
Do you own any touring car?

Kensei

OK, well thanks for nothing bucko!
S411 is crossed off my list as of now!
I won't be of any nuisance to you anymore!

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

I sense much anger in you

by the way by original shocks which one do you mean???? let latest RCM's or the previous versions.

the only thing the new shock now needs is a more stable bladder like we have in the 811. the new machines pistons are definately an improvement over the plastic one that rub against the casing.

New ones works perfectly fine. took me a while to figure out and Michael had to show me how its done. now all my shocks are great. just watch out for the bladder getting tangled up. the RCCx was easy to build and match. the RCms are harder to build but stay consistent longer.

for me the best would be to find a way to get rid of shock building all together..

M7H

If you check his posting history, I think he own's all touring cars!

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

He's a troll. This car is too awesome for Trolls

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

Ran the sport last night in practice, I have to say I am pleasantly suprised. It was real good out of the box, a couple quick tweeks... and it was good on our track.

Running just as fast as the "other" cars. Seems to be pretty durable as well.

Time will tell. Just wish it was more in line on price to Sakura, then the T3r.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Tim, what did the car come in weight wise?

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

1420 with a 6800 Team Powers pack and a lw body.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

Taking the S411 (and the S120) to the USVTA Southern Nationals this weekend. Car has felt very good lately, but still a good bit off pace (0.6 sec a lap at home track fast lap to fast lap) and 0.8-0.9 off on regular lapping. I have not had the practice lately which is a big part of it as well.

As I haven't been following this thread as consistently as I was able to in the past, I am curious what the theory is now on the motor mount. It seems the hybrid V1/V2 seems like the new thing to try? Full top deck screws or still skipping some of those near the motor mount?

Current track is a bit bumpy, but the one this weekend is glass smooth. I am assuming I can stiffen things up a little and go for some more traction bite to power through corners a little more aggressively then? Thinking things like sways, shock oil and springs primarily, as I do not have the chassis and top deck options (just stock and flex top decks, and my chassis's are 2.25).

When you guys go to a new track (layout or venue) do you take the car back to either box stock, or some other version of setup, and tune from there? Or do you take what you have, and then adjust as the conditions warrant?