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Old 10-08-2012, 12:36 AM
  #4366  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
No prob, really trying to get the car sorted out in time for the nats, will have probably another couple of test days and thats it... long list of stuff still to try!!
Ed, Have you thought about making the cut out under the front bulk heads to look like the Smokem mx chassis? I have a couple of used chassis I could sacrifice for the nat's to see how a cut like this feels.

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Old 10-08-2012, 03:50 AM
  #4367  
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Originally Posted by jimjav
Hey,

This race was my last TC race of the season, so for the winter I will prepare one Mazda 6 and will check the nylon spool.

Kind regards

Hi.

We had a race last weekend, where we tried the nylon spool. Modified 4,5 t Thunderpower on a mid grip carpet. 15 batteries - no problems at all.

I haven't checked the wear after the race yet, only when I checked the car before the qualifications. At that time I could hardly find something. I put a small ammount of crease into the outdrive. I used old ball diff grease, as it is for both plastic and steel.

My thougts about the nylon spool is, that it will work fine in almost every condition - including modified, but it has limitid durabillity when it comes to a crash. Then it can brake - like seen with the plastic outdrives of fx the Tamiya cars.

The nylon spool saves a lot of weight and rotation mass. For the first time we had a car, which was under the minimum weigt. 1346 gram with a PF
Mazdaspeed regular body.

The question is now: are you ready to accept the small risk for breakage in a crash - and save a lot of weight?

We will - as the price for the nylon spool is low. When we have to race on track with high risk for crashes (fx when the track is tight and the layout is made of wooden planks (yes - some tracks are)), then we will switch to the standard steel spool.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah
Ed, Have you thought about making the cut out under the front bulk heads to look like the Smokem mx chassis? I have a couple of used chassis I could sacrifice for the nat's to see how a cut like this feels.

Thought about it yes, not high on my list of things to try though, mostly because some, if not most, of the change would be taken away from using the suspension block acting as a cross brace... if we had split blocks, then something to look into for sure.
(I'm not about to mount cut blocks with one screw mind )
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
(I'm not about to mount cut blocks with one screw mind )
Do you think it's worth to go for the split blocks? I mean should Serpent develop the next evolution of the car in this direction? Or is it just another merchandising thing ...
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:57 AM
  #4370  
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Originally Posted by Geberit
Do you think it's worth to go for the split blocks? I mean should Serpent develop the next evolution of the car in this direction? Or is it just another merchandising thing ...
the sport comes with rear split blocks...

So looks like it will go in that direction. I actually want to see FR split blocks.. will save a hell of a time changing belts
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:30 AM
  #4371  
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Originally Posted by Geberit
Do you think it's worth to go for the split blocks? I mean should Serpent develop the next evolution of the car in this direction? Or is it just another merchandising thing ...
Yes I do believe thats a development they should pursure, it sure made a difference to the 417/416's when I ran that car. Although I would prefer the BD7 style with the diagonalled screws (like the sport), rather than the Tam style straight screws, just think thats a more secure mounting.

But hey, not my choice... just offering my opinion
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:08 AM
  #4372  
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Here you can find Hara's comments on split blocks;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dluw3VUGYoU
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by musti72
Here you can find Hara's comments on split blocks;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dluw3VUGYoU
So what is Serpent waiting for + my rear belt is touching the suspension block!
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Yes I do believe thats a development they should pursure, it sure made a difference to the 417/416's when I ran that car. Although I would prefer the BD7 style with the diagonalled screws (like the sport), rather than the Tam style straight screws, just think thats a more secure mounting.

But hey, not my choice... just offering my opinion
Since you have experience with Tamiya and Serpent how would you compare the cars?

Let's say for good club driver would he benefit with one of those chassis or would you say it doesn't matter what he drives.

I'm just curious because I drive a S411te and some of my friends think I would be much better of with the TRF417x ….

Regards, G
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:59 AM
  #4375  
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Originally Posted by Geberit
Since you have experience with Tamiya and Serpent how would you compare the cars?

Let's say for good club driver would he benefit with one of those chassis or would you say it doesn't matter what he drives.

I'm just curious because I drive a S411te and some of my friends think I would be much better of with the TRF417x ….

Regards, G
I have also had a 416/417, and found that the standard S411 has more steering (faster around the track), but easier to drive!
And the S411 has a better setup window, with a good base setup, the car will be great on almost all tracks. The 417 was harder to get right from track to track. I haven't jet been on a track, where my Serpent did not feel great!

And with the S411te it's just a tick better.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:08 AM
  #4376  
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Originally Posted by RasCalDK
I have also had a 416/417, and found that the standard S411 has more steering (faster around the track), but easier to drive!
And the S411 has a better setup window, with a good base setup, the car will be great on almost all tracks. The 417 was harder to get right from track to track. I haven't jet been on a track, where my Serpent did not feel great!

And with the S411te it's just a tick better.
Thanks for the input!
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:35 AM
  #4377  
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Originally Posted by Geberit
Since you have experience with Tamiya and Serpent how would you compare the cars?

Let's say for good club driver would he benefit with one of those chassis or would you say it doesn't matter what he drives.

I'm just curious because I drive a S411te and some of my friends think I would be much better of with the TRF417x ….

Regards, G
Not myself, but a friend at the track converted from a 417x to the S411. He is now running a T3 2012 also, but that is another story. Durability was the biggest issue. The 417x c-hubs are extremely brittle.

I think that unless you are the lone S411 owner there and always chasing setups while the rest of the fast guys have 417's, there really isn't a good reason to change.
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:49 AM
  #4378  
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Can you buy the narrow 2.25mm TE chassis separately? I can't find a part number for a chassis that looks like the narrow version, but maybe they're just re-using the old photo?
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:05 PM
  #4379  
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Originally Posted by Steve S
Can you buy the narrow 2.25mm TE chassis separately? I can't find a part number for a chassis that looks like the narrow version, but maybe they're just re-using the old photo?
Steve the only wide chassis was the old 2.50, all the rest went to the narrow format from the get go. So the part number should be current for the correct chassis.

Nice to see another Serpent in the West btw.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Steve the only wide chassis was the old 2.50, all the rest went to the narrow format from the get go. So the part number should be current for the correct chassis.

Nice to see another Serpent in the West btw.
Thanks, really happy with the car so far. Ran it in mod for the first time this weekend and didn't lose too badly to Tozser. Can't complain about that

This is the photo that's been confusing me:
http://serpent.com/product/401444/

So you're saying #401444 is the TE version, without the notches on the battery side?
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