Team Associated TC6 Thread
#7186
I went from 64 to 48 as there is a bit of rocks on the track and I didn't want to be changing spurs all the time.
#7187
I noticed a couple of pages back someone was having trouble fitting a brushed silver can into this chassis.
Im considering buying a tc6.1 and was wondering if anyone can confirm if a silver can will fit running a FDR of around 4.
Im considering buying a tc6.1 and was wondering if anyone can confirm if a silver can will fit running a FDR of around 4.
#7188
The reason why i want 48 pitch is because of rocks getting in.
#7189
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
That was me. I had to dremel the motor mount about 2-3mm towards the bottom of chassis in the oval part of the mount and 2-3 towards the front of the car. I'm like 1-2mm away from the front mount hole screw. I also had to shim it out. I'm at 80spur with 31 pinion for a 5.1 fdr. If you want to be at 4 then you will have to switch to 64 pitch. Speedtech carries the new v2 spurs. When I ran 17.5 I was at 4.0 with 94-47. Also the 94 spur is a lot smaller than my 80 so that will move the motor back and give you more pinion space to play with, but since it's smaller and further back you may need to cut the back side opposite of what I did so you can slide the motor more freely. With 48 pitch im stuck with only 2 pinion as that's all I can move the motor due to the bushing being on the way. 30-32
The reason why i want 48 pitch is because of rocks getting in.
The reason why i want 48 pitch is because of rocks getting in.
#7190
I was just thinking the same thing.
#7192
Why the hell not? What other motors are there to run without the bushing on front? I want to run gt3 brushed class as onroad is new to me and I want to work my way up to a faster class rather then jump in a class I don't belong, after all it's just a 20 dollar piece and it still works with any bl motor.
#7193
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Why the hell not? What other motors are there to run without the bushing on front? I want to run gt3 brushed class as onroad is new to me and I want to work my way up to a faster class rather then jump in a class I don't belong, after all it's just a 20 dollar piece and it still works with any bl motor.
#7195
I wasn't. It's the net so anything can sound different. Sorry too
Have heard about it too, but they dont have those brushless classes as of now. But I much rather run those bl efficient motors over brush in hoping they bring vta though.
Have heard about it too, but they dont have those brushless classes as of now. But I much rather run those bl efficient motors over brush in hoping they bring vta though.
#7196
For those who wish to mount a Tamiya 540J Silver Can in their TC6 / TC6.1, please know it is not necessary to modify the motor mount.
To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.
I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.
Thus, this solution is tough and works.
To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.
I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.
Thus, this solution is tough and works.
#7197
For those who wish to mount a Tamiya 540J Silver Can in their TC6 / TC6.1, please know it is not necessary to modify the motor mount.
To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.
I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.
Thus, this solution is tough and works.
To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.
I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.
Thus, this solution is tough and works.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pacer-SCRT-RTR
Last edited by Team Grid RC; 07-28-2012 at 09:20 PM.
#7198
We use Robinson Racing spurs that has a range from 49T to 96T in 48 pitch.
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/48pitchspur.html
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/48pitchspur.html
#7199
For those who wish to mount a Tamiya 540J Silver Can in their TC6 / TC6.1, please know it is not necessary to modify the motor mount.
To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.
I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.
Thus, this solution is tough and works.
To mount a Silver Can in my kids' TC6's, I used M3 hex screws (with blue thread lock on them, naturally) that are 5mm longer than "normal" and spaced the motor 5mm away from the motor mount. As spacers in one of my kid's cars, I used Dubro M3 flat washers (photo below). In the other kid's car, I used Team Associated Part # 4617 Front Bulkhead Shims.
I was initially concerned that spacing the motor away from the motor mount would present a weak point that, in a side collision, could lead to a bent motor mount. However, despite that the kids have been absolutely brutal on their cars for more than a year now, there have been no issues. Both motors and mounts are still in place, no issues at all.
Thus, this solution is tough and works.
You may want try this spacer. Your method is a good fix but I am sure under racing conditions, the motor is flexing up an down.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pacer-SCRT-RTR
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pacer-SCRT-RTR
#7200
Yes, with the spacer method, the Silver Can visually does appear to hang over the edge of the chassis a long ways. I was concerned about that too. However, when I compared how far the Silver Can hangs off with how far my brushless TC6 motors hang off, the Silver Can extends outboard only a few millimeters more. The Silver Can hanging off doesn't seem to present more of a risk to the car than any other motor, as in countless significant hits, neither one of our Silver Can cars has seen any motor or motor mount damage.
About flexing, I've raced the kids cars (lapped the field one race), sometimes just to make sure their cars are running good and sometimes when my car isn't working. If the Silver Can is flexing on its mount, it's totally, completly not noticeable when driving the car. Also, there is no abnormal gear wear (e.g. angular wear indicating mis-alignment of the pinion and spur) or any gear wear at all for that matter.
That said, the Kyosho spacer does present what could be a more visually elegant solution, although the Kyosho washer would block the Silver Can's inboard vent holes. Not diss-ing Team Grid RC's idea. It's a good one. It's just that there are pros and cons to everything.
Anyway, the Kyosho spacer, Dubro M3 flat washers, TA shims or other similar method are all viable options.
The gist of it is that one need not grind at their motor mount to get a Silver Can to fit. This is good because Silver Can racing is so fun.
About flexing, I've raced the kids cars (lapped the field one race), sometimes just to make sure their cars are running good and sometimes when my car isn't working. If the Silver Can is flexing on its mount, it's totally, completly not noticeable when driving the car. Also, there is no abnormal gear wear (e.g. angular wear indicating mis-alignment of the pinion and spur) or any gear wear at all for that matter.
That said, the Kyosho spacer does present what could be a more visually elegant solution, although the Kyosho washer would block the Silver Can's inboard vent holes. Not diss-ing Team Grid RC's idea. It's a good one. It's just that there are pros and cons to everything.
Anyway, the Kyosho spacer, Dubro M3 flat washers, TA shims or other similar method are all viable options.
The gist of it is that one need not grind at their motor mount to get a Silver Can to fit. This is good because Silver Can racing is so fun.