olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Part numbers please.

thanks for the update

Hugh Jazz

iTrader: (4)

These are the out drives we are talking about http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=19229

and these are the yoke cvds i am using http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=16984

PRC

iTrader: (1)

I've broken so many hub and knuckles on this car in the one month that i've own this car, it's getting ridiculous. My question would be - Has anyone upgraded their C hubs and Kuckles to alloy? And how would the front arms hold up on impact with those upgrades?

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

i hope you havent been buying the cheap cyclone s c-hubs?

louielou

iTrader: (16)

which c hubs r the strong ones, and does anyone where i can get the pro4 front arms? i ran those on my tc, those things never broke.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

I too am using the Pro4 arms and they hold up. I bought a bunch of XRAY nuckles, the Hard type, and they are great. You will have to shim a bit but that allows bonus adjustment up and down.

I recently took an idea posted a few pages back and removed some of the steel from the HB outdrives to allow Hudy 52MM ECS drive shafts. I took HB pins and pressed them in the ECS bones. When you do an over all measurement, they are in between 44MM and 46MM HB drive shafts. I found it strange where the Hudy measurement began and ended to total 52 MM.

I have not yet broken a C-hub, they seem to be strong.

What you put on next may allow for something else to fail. I would consider that since we all are waiting for parts relief from HB.

I hope HB parts start appearing in the USA soon...

CSF0623

iTrader: (12)

The c-hubs and steering blocks were carried over from the first Cyclone, so there is no change with that. As for the arms on the TCX they came from the last car the TC. Yes, they are a bit brittle (graphite) but you also have to remember it has more holes for different shock positions which also makes it more vulnerable for breakage. HB has the original plastic arm that came from the previous Cyclone that is alot more durable but has less options for tuning that you can use as well. The only other weak part of the car would have to be the 46mm drive shaft/bone on the TCX as mentioned before. I heard that HB will be bringing in steel 46mm drive shaft/bone soon, which should last alot longer than the aluminum one. I'll admit to breaking an arm since I have had the car (2 months) but this was due to a collision with another car that was parked on the track. So far I have had nothing but good luck with this car and have placed with some the best at WCRC and is far better then my Cyclone TC. Just my 2cents.

Ty

iTrader: (32)

Since Tamiya steering knuckles fit do the c-hubs from the 416/417 fit the TCX as well? I know the plastic parts from the TA05 (the c-hubs) held up much better than the kit parts. Please let me know if anyone has tried the Tamiya c-hubs on the TCX.

Also, I ordered the Yokomo steel 45.5mm drive shafts (just the bone, not the whole axle assembly) and the Yokomo spool cups from driftspeed.com.

Antoni, are you certain the Yokomo steel drive shaft bone will fit with all the stock TCX axle and CVD internals? Do I need anything else besides the parts I ordered?

evostyle

iTrader: (103)

TCX available in case anyone is interested.... Thanks

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-tc-sedan.html

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=915

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=6298

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Nope that is all you need. I have tested and the Yokomo driveshafts also fit in the Axle aswell as the Tamiya ones

Ty

iTrader: (32)

Antoni,
Thanks for the help again. I also ordered some Tamiya plastic c-hubs and some Pro4 plastic c-hubs to test along with the carbon kit parts. I also bought some Tamiya steering knuckles too just in case I break another stock part. I did jam on a Parma Xray T2 hard bumper too (I made it fit basically). I hope that helps a bit too with front end protection. I will let everyone know how it goes.

The Tamiya steel bones are available from a great seller on eBay under the seller name of rdvtg. He is super fast on shipping. Just search his store for the Tamiya part number. His store address is http://stores.ebay.com/Rdvtg-Hobbies and like Antoni stated the part # is 51092.

John Doucakis

iTrader: (1)

Kit almost done
Electronics to be installed when I find what I am looking for.

Click on the photos for more..

dameetz

What balls are you using on the shocks top and bottom?

cyclone speed

Hello Everyone,
I just got a few questions that i cant find any answer ...
I went racing today ( not a race day, just went to the track for practice ), the track was very litle wet ( humid ), there were a few leaves on the track, and it was 4° celsius outside .
When I was going slowly, the car would handle well, but most of the time, when i would accelerate mid-exit of corner, the back end would slide out
When i would go 80% throtle and 20% steering, it was ok, but as soon as i was steering a litle too much, the back would go lose .
Is it a setup problem, traction problem or driving problem ? Could i higher front droop for more weight transfer at the back, or streignten the rear shocks ?
Thank you for any help
PS : Im runing 13.5 BL

By the way, most people have good looking weights with carbon, are they pre-prepared, or do people just stick carbon stickers ?