130LikesTA-05 ver.2
03-17-2012, 10:29 PM
#1997
I believe I run between 13.5 and 14 mm.
The way I set them is to make them as equal as possible from left to right, the actual amount may vary because of not all parts are exactly the same. But, the key point I'm going to make is what gives me the actual number. This is not found in any manual or set-up sheet, so you won't find this info anywhere else.
I set the rocker arms when the suspension is in fully loaded running condition, tires,battery, etc. etc. so that the arms are perfectly parallel to each other, if you are looking down at the car on a flat surface or tweek board, they are straight from front to rear. If you do this the pushrods will be between 13.5 and 14mm.
I found by doing this the geometry of the rockers are at where they were designed to be at in this position so the springs will be at the angle they were designed to be in by whoever designed this IFS suspension. More like Mad Scientists to me. However it was done the geometry is in pre-set neutral position and that's how it should look and work in real racing conditions on the car!
Hey whatever works, right?
Try it you'll like it!
Just my 2$
The way I set them is to make them as equal as possible from left to right, the actual amount may vary because of not all parts are exactly the same. But, the key point I'm going to make is what gives me the actual number. This is not found in any manual or set-up sheet, so you won't find this info anywhere else.
I set the rocker arms when the suspension is in fully loaded running condition, tires,battery, etc. etc. so that the arms are perfectly parallel to each other, if you are looking down at the car on a flat surface or tweek board, they are straight from front to rear. If you do this the pushrods will be between 13.5 and 14mm.
I found by doing this the geometry of the rockers are at where they were designed to be at in this position so the springs will be at the angle they were designed to be in by whoever designed this IFS suspension. More like Mad Scientists to me. However it was done the geometry is in pre-set neutral position and that's how it should look and work in real racing conditions on the car!
Hey whatever works, right?
Try it you'll like it!
Just my 2$
Also with spares i would go for 416 or carbon reinforced parts as they hold the screws in well, i had problems with the stock plastic where the kingpin or screws will just pop out after a hit and the hole,thread are all messed up.
Been using the harder plastic parts and have no problems so far, even with a few hits and crashes.
03-18-2012, 07:43 AM
#1999
get the version 2 kit...the chassis plates are different.
03-18-2012, 09:07 AM
#2000
Just to make sure - you're saying to get a V2 instead of a TA05 and trying to convert it to a V2.
Thanks - im basing my info off of a "Best 1/10 Electric Plastic Chassis Touring Car" so want to make sure i start with the right car - thanks!
Thanks - im basing my info off of a "Best 1/10 Electric Plastic Chassis Touring Car" so want to make sure i start with the right car - thanks!
03-20-2012, 03:24 AM
#2001
Hey guys
I have been rebuilding my Ver.2 follwoing the manaul everything seems fine unitl i put the motor in.
Once i put the motor in everything seems tight. Before i could move the motor&diffs by pulling on one of the belts, now it seems alot harder just doesn't want to move without some force. Without the motor its quite free and smooth.
Both spur & pinion are worn but still useable and i have left enough clearence for the gears too
Wasn't like this before i took it apart
What will be a good setting for the belt tension ?? as i think it maybe to tight
Motor used is a Ezrun 5.5T
I have been rebuilding my Ver.2 follwoing the manaul everything seems fine unitl i put the motor in.
Once i put the motor in everything seems tight. Before i could move the motor&diffs by pulling on one of the belts, now it seems alot harder just doesn't want to move without some force. Without the motor its quite free and smooth.
Both spur & pinion are worn but still useable and i have left enough clearence for the gears too
Wasn't like this before i took it apart
What will be a good setting for the belt tension ?? as i think it maybe to tight
Motor used is a Ezrun 5.5T
Last edited by alex_evo; 03-20-2012 at 05:08 AM.
03-21-2012, 10:07 PM
#2003
Havent tried the exotek, maybe one day lolol
03-21-2012, 10:17 PM
#2004
personally i use the stock chassis but the carbon reinforced is i guess better. id personally stay away from the exoteck stuff..it usually just open a can o' worms. thats my opinion. ive never had good luck with their stuff..ive always had to elongate holes, trim extra materials off..an such. unless your running more then 13.5 on a tight carpet track with higher bite id say save the $$ and use the stock one. good luck tho!! TAMIYA FTW!!
03-22-2012, 05:44 AM
#2005
It handles lightyears better then it did before
03-22-2012, 04:38 PM
#2007
ESC
Im new to the Tamiya TA-05 V2 crowd and I've been going through lots of posts trying to get up to speed. Bought a used TA05 V2 with a Novak Dually ESC (no reverse) and for my current driving skills i definitely need reverse.
I've been looking at a Hobbywing eZRun 60A and a Mamba Max ESC 5700 or 7700.
Please tell me if im looking at the right ESC's
I've been looking at a Hobbywing eZRun 60A and a Mamba Max ESC 5700 or 7700.
Please tell me if im looking at the right ESC's
03-22-2012, 05:05 PM
#2008
Im new to the Tamiya TA-05 V2 crowd and I've been going through lots of posts trying to get up to speed. Bought a used TA05 V2 with a Novak Dually ESC (no reverse) and for my current driving skills i definitely need reverse.
I've been looking at a Hobbywing eZRun 60A and a Mamba Max ESC 5700 or 7700.
Please tell me if im looking at the right ESC's
I've been looking at a Hobbywing eZRun 60A and a Mamba Max ESC 5700 or 7700.
Please tell me if im looking at the right ESC's
03-22-2012, 07:50 PM
#2010
also gotta check to see what kind of rules the track you're planning to race at has - do they allow boost/turbo, or are they a blinky track?? if they are boost or blinky, neither of those would be correct for racing
sorry...they prices are right, but be careful what you spend your $$ or else you'll have a $50 paper weight on your workbench