Zac_with_no_K

Thank you all!

I actually think I got those wheel spacers a long time ago but I couldn't figure out where/how to fit them on. I'll deffinitly be getting those 6mm thick wheel hubs for the rear wheels.

And cdwilliams, that's the same range I was planning on going for. Was thinking on trying 46t-50t pinions. Maybe even down to 42t.. from 3.5 FDR -4 FDR..

Is 48p better for VTA? What would a good spur tooth count for 48p gears?

cdwilliams1

iTrader: (38)

48p is more durable, since the teeth are bigger. They are supposed to be easier to get a good mesh on as well, due to the size. Although I haven't tried them yet.... 64p is supposedly quieter, cooler, and more efficient. I only run indoors though on carpet though so I'm not really worried about anything making its way into the gears and chipping teeth. So I'll give it a go. I picked 82/50 to mimic my current VTA setup. It's almost exactly the same ratio even though the gears are wildly different. I'll let you know how it goes.

Zac_with_no_K

Thanks again!

I've decided to risk it and just ordered the hubs and 64p spur and too many pinions.. Need to have my car set-up hopefully before the 30th and have a ton of work to do..

But still let me know how the pinion fits because I'm still worried about that!

iasca20

iTrader: (25)

I run a 96t spur with a 47t pinion, and have room to gear up a tooth or two. An 82t spur should net you a lot of room for larger pinions.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Yes, when putting the posts ahead of the rear shock tower, they line up just the same(or at least so close, that I can't tell the difference, & I have had my v2 & 416 share bodies before). Works well.....

cdwilliams1

iTrader: (38)

Zac,

Here's what it looks like...

48P (left 35pinion/60 spur) vs 64P (50pinion/82 spur)



and then here's how it looks mounted. There isn't much room available to get farther to the right with the motor. You might only be able to get a couple teeth smaller on the pinion.

Zac_with_no_K

Thanks guys!

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

hi those who have converted the ifs setup to standard, have you noticed a difference and are you lap times faster or slower, any info on this issue will help thanks

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

wow, thanks - but you must be running a different rear shock tower...mine are off by a good 1/4-1/2 inch in the rear...

I'm running the IFS rear tower, if that make any kind of difference

cdwilliams1

iTrader: (38)

Got a new problems since putting the car back together. It pulls to the left under acceleration, but tracks straight when I let off the gas. Any ideas? Diff too tight?

bencason

iTrader: (3)

I am also interested in any response to the above request.

I have finally rounded up all the parts to accomplish the change to upright shocks. My reason for doing so is to make tuning easier. I've read the manual on tuning front shock when using IFS but think upright shocks might be simpler or offer a greater range of changes.

If there was a chance of a performance improvement, that would be very welcome.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Ohhh, yeah, I'm sorry, I forgot to mention I have the carbon fiber rear shock tower on it(already had one from my older TA05, so when I built my v2, I moved it over), & with it, you can get the body posts to line up right....

cain.c

iTrader: (10)

I converted to upright shocks, but changed back to IFS due to not being able to get my ride height low enough (was probably up around 8 or 9 mm) on the front. I don't have any actual lap time comparison but I mainly race on asphalt and am posting times near the fastest guys at our track with the IFS setup.
When using upright shocks I had the TRF shocks on there and had the lower ball cups wound as far up the thread as possible. Even wound the thread through the lower ball cups by accident at one point to try and get the front ride height down to a decent level. Not sure if this issue would happen for everyone converting to upright shocks, but I don't see any way around it besides getting shorter (ie. crappy, non-TRF) shocks.

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10775985

For me the conversion was the best thing I done to the car.
By eliminating all the free play in the multiple linkages in the IFS setup the car is more consistent, if only the driver was the same.

I don't have any ride height issues with mine, mainly adjust it with different springs & position of where the shocks mount.

Cheers
Rob.

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

I was also wondering if the tamiya 417 rear ball diff will fit the ta05 ver 2, if anyone has tried it please let me know thanks