peded

iTrader: (7)

I just went on AE's site to check on the TC3/4 FAQs and everything. I see that the TC4 Center shaft, shocks, driveshafts/cvds, Chassis braces, steering knuckles, rear hub carriers, shock towers, shafts, drive cups will fit the tc3 without modifications. Has anyone tried this? Any benefits really other than updated parts that are readily avaliable? I'm thinking of conveting over to some Factory team stuff.

Are the Aluminum Factory Team Screw really worth buying? I've heard that aluminum snaps really easy.

Also I was wondering has anyone tired these mods: http://ca.geocities.com/jleblao/ ?
I was thinking of widening the motor cooling hole on the chassis and perhaps the battery slots and everything. Also I was thinking converting over to the NTC3 Steering rack? Has anyone done this yet? Did you see any negitive effects from this?

tc3team

Peded,its worth taking the inner shield out of the diff bearings and making sure the differential is not a tight fit into the chassis,top cover. This will free the drivetrain up a little. I think the battery slots are only worth filing if you're using 3300s or above. more so if youre using 3700s or 4300s to try and keep the weight as close to the centre as possible.


Has anyone got the part numbers for the centre shaft cups and the screw that holds them to the input shafts please?

Ridge_Racer

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking at buying a set of TC3 Front Blue Aluminum Steering blocks and the rear blocks as well. Has anyone used them? Would this be good for rubber carpet racing? Ever since I got the TC3, I have been having problems with the front blocks getting loose and unscrewing. I can never keep the camber consistant because after every run, the screw would come loose. I tried thread lock but I don't think it works on plastic or graphite. I'm thinking with the Blue Aluminum, I can keep the screw in there and run a little more consistant.

thoughts ?

tc3team

Ridge-Racer I would be careful with that idea if youre thinking they are made of solid alloy,some are not and have a plastic/nylon insert that you screw into.

The main consideration is not to overtighten,as it can be done easily if you use too much force.

Id probably invest in another set of standard arms,make sure the front arm set hex screw (which goes from underneath into the arm) is in good condition so it doesnt slip when your tightening it up. Remember alloy is good,until it bends and then usually wont bend back into shape. The standard ones are usually pretty strong. Pick up a whole car off ebay for cheap money if you can,youve got a whole car of spares then (Ive found they can be very useful,very quickly sometimes!)

Hope that helps

wcalaker

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem with my TC3. The screw would come loose all the time and it was too easily stripped. You can do a couple of things. The aluminum stuff is probably worth getting as a lot of people have those parts in aluminum on all types of cars. It seems like the parts to get. especially for carpet racing. If you dont have the money to do that, you could find someone (although it is hard to find someone to do this) and have them helicoil ( i believe thats the term for it) the holes for you. Basically, from what I understand, is that it makes the inside of the plastic piece and makes it metal so you cant strip it and you can add loctite to it.

bigair78

I have heard of some people using finger nail polish to stop the screws from coming out. Make sure you get the right color though!!

tc3team

Can anyone tell me what Loxi XXX-S parts fit the tc3 please?

Z.Hallett

i believe the rear hub carriers and the front steering knuckles work.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

The reason the screws come loose underneath the steering block is because the bushing is too short. Or actually the tolerances of the caster blocks is off. The simplest solution is to sand/remove just enough material from the top and bottom of the caster blocks so that the bushing clears all plastic or just sticks out. Then when you tighten down the upper ball stud and the lower screw they both are resting on the bushing and not the caster block.

Since I've been doing this I haven't had problems with losing screws from the steering knuckles AND it helped free up the steering. If you do choose to buy aluminum steering knuckles/blocks, CRC or Calandra Racing Concepts makes aluminum parts for the TC3. Here is a link to their website: http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...esc&perpage=10

tc3team

Thanks for both of your replys! I will get the standard ones and follow your advice on sanding them down,it sounds very logical!

santinuchi

I found that using the tc4 caster blocks and knuckles eliminate that problem as well, it also gets rid of that very tiny bit of slop that you get using the tc3 parts while still allowing the suspention and steering to remain free...no binds at all.

Apl Hed

iTrader: (32)

i ran this car for a almost a year, never had issues with gear mesh. i would rather run a 1 pce shaft, less rotating mass, and less parts = less friction. the XLR8 has the fastest cornering speed of any car ive ever run. keep up the good work diggs. ive seen some amazing things come out of youre shop, i would tell yall, but diggs would kill me. lol. cant wait to run the new d-12, youre 12th scale also has some of the fastest cornering speed. i dominated with that car last year.well, g2g, off to toledo for the glrc. ill give ya a shout when i return diggs.

L8R

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

Need a little help. Can some one shot me a P.M. were I can find the old graphite battery cell for the TC3

Taffyjnr5

iTrader: (32)

Hi,
Do BMI still make an aftermarket chassis kit for the TC3 if not who does make one and how much would it cost. Thanks

Taffyjnr5

rockdog200

Yes they still make chassis for the TC3 and they are worth every penny.