65LikesTC3 Forum
07-13-2006, 12:35 AM
Originally Posted by XrayFK
4+2 battery packs are a pain 
What size are the threads in the arms for the shock mounts?
Also, was it not possible to fit a two-piece bulkhead in the space? Makes for much easier maintenance.
What size are the threads in the arms for the shock mounts?
Also, was it not possible to fit a two-piece bulkhead in the space? Makes for much easier maintenance.
4 and 2 packs are nothing, you would get easily used to it. Its basicly just like a 3 and 3 pack! The threads I think you are talking about are 4-40.. Yes two-piece bulkheads would have been nice, and are in the making for the next revision. Its just as easy to take the diffs out on the XLR8 than it was on the TC3 or TC4 so its not that big of a pain 
07-13-2006, 12:39 AM
Originally Posted by XrayFK
4+2 battery packs are a pain
What size are the threads in the arms for the shock mounts?
Also, was it not possible to fit a two-piece bulkhead in the space? Makes for much easier maintenance.
What size are the threads in the arms for the shock mounts?
Also, was it not possible to fit a two-piece bulkhead in the space? Makes for much easier maintenance.
XrayFK: You will be seeing an XLR8 very soon if you race at Horsham? Dennis Storti will be rolling one this next weekend, so check it out in person if you can.
07-13-2006, 12:44 AM
Originally Posted by Diggity
XrayFK: You will be seeing an XLR8 very soon if you race at Horsham? Dennis Storti will be rolling one this next weekend, so check it out in person if you can.
07-13-2006, 01:11 AM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Diggity
[INDENT]
Yes the drive shaft is a solid one-piece shaft wich minimizes drive line components and also keeps the drive line more effecient. Great questions.!
Yes the drive shaft is a solid one-piece shaft wich minimizes drive line components and also keeps the drive line more effecient. Great questions.!
IMO this one is supposed to be the same with tamiya's Evo1 ~ Evo3 concept of one piece shaft,
except your chassis has no flex at all longitudinally, I think this might cause some gear mesh problem,
it is due to the nature that the chassis is then allowed to flex a little (could be good for traction on average asphalt track),
but the one piece shaft is not allowed to flex at all for perfect gear mesh front and rear gearbox..
The Evo4 then using 3-piece design (original TC3), even evo5 using CVD style shaft,
07-13-2006, 09:38 AM
Originally Posted by Faiz
for minimize drive line rotating mass?
IMO this one is supposed to be the same with tamiya's Evo1 ~ Evo3 concept of one piece shaft,
except your chassis has no flex at all longitudinally, I think this might cause some gear mesh problem,
it is due to the nature that the chassis is then allowed to flex a little (could be good for traction on average asphalt track),
but the one piece shaft is not allowed to flex at all for perfect gear mesh front and rear gearbox..
The Evo4 then using 3-piece design (original TC3), even evo5 using CVD style shaft,
IMO this one is supposed to be the same with tamiya's Evo1 ~ Evo3 concept of one piece shaft,
except your chassis has no flex at all longitudinally, I think this might cause some gear mesh problem,
it is due to the nature that the chassis is then allowed to flex a little (could be good for traction on average asphalt track),
but the one piece shaft is not allowed to flex at all for perfect gear mesh front and rear gearbox..
The Evo4 then using 3-piece design (original TC3), even evo5 using CVD style shaft,
Yes, less drive line components means less friction in the drive line! Also for 2 years now about 12 of us have been testing the kit and none of us have ever stripped a gear front or back, or a spur gear, gear mesh is fully adjustable in the front and rear diff housings and on the drive shaft!! The aluminum diff housings along with the stiff carbon fibre makes a solid drive train, we dont want it to flex!! The XLR8 works awesome on any surface! This isnt a Tamiya
07-13-2006, 07:11 PM
I am new to racing and I bought a TC4 FT. It pulls hard to the left when I acccelerate hard. Where do I need to start to figure out what is causing this?
07-14-2006, 09:00 AM
Originally Posted by bigair78
I am new to racing and I bought a TC4 FT. It pulls hard to the left when I acccelerate hard. Where do I need to start to figure out what is causing this?
If it has occured since an accident some things I would check are the camber levels,look for any loose steering mechanism parts and make sure the chassis isnt tweaked.
07-14-2006, 01:44 PM
Diggity, even though those videos did nothing to sell your car, I'm still very curious about it. I am a big driveshaft fan and loved my TC3s. I want to know what kind of results you've had with it and at what events. Here are a few more questions:
- Can I use tc3 diffs?
- Can I use standard TC3 arms?
- Are the body post mounts in the same place as the TC3, TC4 or neither? I already have a bunch of bodies already cut for a TC3 and some for a TC4
- When will the two piece bulkheads be available.
- will that one-piece shaft work on a standard tc3?
Thanks
- Can I use tc3 diffs?
- Can I use standard TC3 arms?
- Are the body post mounts in the same place as the TC3, TC4 or neither? I already have a bunch of bodies already cut for a TC3 and some for a TC4
- When will the two piece bulkheads be available.
- will that one-piece shaft work on a standard tc3?
Thanks
Last edited by DOTMAN; 07-14-2006 at 05:48 PM.
07-14-2006, 02:44 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
[B]XLR8[/B]
Hi..
Jeff Landry here..
I built Lane Wiley's XLR8 from the first screw to the last. The car was in many ways easier to build and much easier to work on than my team TC4. After building the car we took it out for a test run down the street...after many starts and stops...the car tracked straight under hard acceleration everytime and braking was the same way.
Out on the track with the stock suggested setup the car seems to work really well.
The 4x2 battery configuration gives the car better balance than a straight six pack w/o having to add very much weight to balance the car out. 4x2's are no different to handle than 3x3's.
We run out on asphalt that is only blown off and prepped with soda to add traction. The open diffs are no problem..we havent had any problems with them at all.
Jeff Landry
-Team Enigma
-Cajun R/C Raceway ~ Lafayette, Louisiana
Jeff Landry here..
I built Lane Wiley's XLR8 from the first screw to the last. The car was in many ways easier to build and much easier to work on than my team TC4. After building the car we took it out for a test run down the street...after many starts and stops...the car tracked straight under hard acceleration everytime and braking was the same way.
Out on the track with the stock suggested setup the car seems to work really well.
The 4x2 battery configuration gives the car better balance than a straight six pack w/o having to add very much weight to balance the car out. 4x2's are no different to handle than 3x3's.
We run out on asphalt that is only blown off and prepped with soda to add traction. The open diffs are no problem..we havent had any problems with them at all.
Jeff Landry
-Team Enigma
-Cajun R/C Raceway ~ Lafayette, Louisiana
07-14-2006, 07:43 PM
Originally Posted by tc3team
Has the fault been there since you first had the car? If so I would check the servo tracking first and see if the centering is in the right place.
If it has occured since an accident some things I would check are the camber levels,look for any loose steering mechanism parts and make sure the chassis isnt tweaked.
If it has occured since an accident some things I would check are the camber levels,look for any loose steering mechanism parts and make sure the chassis isnt tweaked.
At slow speeds it tracks perfectly. Only when I hit the throttle does it dart to the left.
Josh
07-14-2006, 11:15 PM
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
Diggity, even though those videos did nothing to sell your car, I'm still very curious about it. I am a big driveshaft fan and loved my TC3s. I want to know what kind of results you've had with it and at what events. Here are a few more questions:
- Can I use tc3 diffs?
- Can I use standard TC3 arms?
- Are the body post mounts in the same place as the TC3, TC4 or neither? I already have a bunch of bodies already cut for a TC3 and some for a TC4
- When will the two piece bulkheads be available.
- will that one-piece shaft work on a standard tc3?
Thanks
- Can I use tc3 diffs?
- Can I use standard TC3 arms?
- Are the body post mounts in the same place as the TC3, TC4 or neither? I already have a bunch of bodies already cut for a TC3 and some for a TC4
- When will the two piece bulkheads be available.
- will that one-piece shaft work on a standard tc3?
Thanks
Yes you can use TC3 diffs and TC4 diffs,
No you cannot use standard TC3 arms because the new arms are a little shorter and wider and the suspension geometry is different from the TC3,
The Posts are slightly off from the TC3 but I believe you can drill new holes,
The 2 piece bulkheads wont be available for at least 4 months,
No the solid drive shaft wont work on a stock TC3, It has a different length and I wouldnt recommend running a solid drive shaft on a stock TC3 because the chassis flexes too much front to back,
07-14-2006, 11:49 PM
I saw this (XLR8) car race at the ROAR Region 5 carpet race this spring. The car is well thought out, nicely made and performed well on foams with a 19t. I think its a improvement over the TC3/4 and if I wasnt in love with my T2 I would buy one.
07-15-2006, 09:27 PM
Originally Posted by ottoman
I saw this (XLR8) car race at the ROAR Region 5 carpet race this spring. The car is well thought out, nicely made and performed well on foams with a 19t. I think its a improvement over the TC3/4 and if I wasnt in love with my T2 I would buy one.
Ottoman:
The car that was at the ROAR Regionals was still the prototype version, we worked a couple bugs out and the production model is working very well right now. Slowly transforming T2 drivers to the XLR8
Had one tell me today that the XLR8 was much easier to drive and he was amazed at the punch that it had comeing out of the corners and on the straights! The XLR8 will be at lots of races this carpet season!
07-15-2006, 10:21 PM
Originally Posted by bigair78
I haven't noticed any links or anything. I noticed it a little at my first race. I was racing the novice class with a silver can motor. I'll be stepping up to the sportsman class in the next race. I put in a new P2k2 Pro motor in it and it seems alot worse. I have only had the car for a about a week. I got the car on friday and competed on sunday in my first ever race.
At slow speeds it tracks perfectly. Only when I hit the throttle does it dart to the left.
Josh
At slow speeds it tracks perfectly. Only when I hit the throttle does it dart to the left.
Josh
To check your droop put a wrench or something under the chassis plate in the middle right under the front suspension. Slowly lift up the nose of the car with the wrench and watch the two front tires. They have to lift off of the ground in the same time. If they do your droop is OK and you have to look for something else. If the description was not clear enough ask somebody at your track to show you how to check droop...
hope this helps
07-18-2006, 01:11 AM
bigair78- Also,are you running alloy wishbones? Some do not have a droop screw so if you are have some without that may be causing a problem. I think the light blue Fastrax ones are like this,but maybe the design changed later on. (But this was for the tc3,not sure if they used a similar design for the tc4)...