Originally Posted by aarivers

I tried searching but didn't find exactly what I was looking for. I just bought an Mi4LP and will be racing it in the VTA class on high bite carpet, I ran it for some practice laps with the previous owners setup and the car was traction rolling all over the place, so I was looking to see if anyone had a setup sheet for this combination as a good starting point.

Thanks

Originally Posted by grippgoat

I'm looking for ideas to make an Mi4 LP work better in VTA 21.5. I can't really say exactly what it is I'm looking for. Maybe more corner entry rotation, and just an overall more aggressive/responsive car. I've only run it for one race day, and I was running two classes, so I didn't have time to experiment much with it.

The setup I ran on the car this past weekend is long medium arms front and rear. Not sure about the shims to the bulkhead. Wheelbase shims are 2mm on both sides of the arm, front and rear. 3* rear toe. Normal hexes. No spacers under camber plates or balls. Inside hole on rear suspension. Lots of droop (don't have a number, just 3mm+ front and rear). Shocks in the middle hole. Gear diffs front and rear with Traxxas 500k front, and 60wt AE shock oil (~700cst?) rear. Blue front springs, white rear springs.

The one negative I noticed is that the car wanted to work the outside of the tires, even with 2.5* camber. I think this is because the tires are so tall, that dropping the chassis back down to about 6mm ride height, nevermind 5mm, the lower arms were angled enough that it was combatting the camber curve. Switching to 1-groove plates did help that. That would also raise the roll centers, in addition to the steeper camber curve, right?

I'm wondering if I should be trying to raise the roll centers from the lower arms. I have aluminum pivot blocks I could put on, but that'll only be worth 1mm front and 2mm rear. Should I even try running the arms 1mm higher in back, or would that just make the car handle really weird? Another idea I had was putting shims between the bulkheads and the chassis. That would raise the arms, but also raise the shock towers, diffs, and motor mount. But it would let me keep the electronics and battery lower. I think I could also angle motor down a bit to keep it from being so high.

Another thing I'm wondering about, but didn't have time to try, is blue rear springs. My line of thought being that the wide rear track reduces the motion ratio, effectively softening the rear suspension.

One fast local guy said he just put TC tires on the car, and set it up the way he would for TC, and then threw the VTA tires. That would result in a pretty high ride height, though. At least 7-8mm. That was with an Xray, but I don't remember which model.

The car is definitely good as-is. I finished 2nd in the main on saturday after qualifying 5th. The top 5 qualifiers were all doing fastest laps within 0.1 seconds of each other. The big difference came down to consistency. I'm honestly not sure if my fastest laps came from wider, faster cornering, or slower, tighter lines.

The car weighs 1509 grams, with about 735 front and 774 rear.

-Mike

Originally Posted by skypilot

Change the 500k to 50 of 100k in the front diff. Use the short ARM in the front, reduce rear toe to as little as possible. Reduce the amount of droop. Go back to the 3 groove plate, 2mm spacers under ball front and rear.

Originally Posted by outtafocus

I have been having huge issues with the back end being very loose coming off throttle. Having read all the tips people have posted on here about this same issue, I think my droop settings are a big cause. I have been using a mix of a couple different setup sheets and the car just felt wrong. I dont know enough about TC setup to really understand alot of the reasons why items are set the way they are. I have however come to the conclusion that I cant mix a set up sheet from a car with alloy suspension mounts and the plastic mounts I was using. So I have decided to finally bolt on the alloy mounts that came with the car that I had pulled off to keep my set up simple. So this alone will help me a great deal also.

Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk

For those that have the CXL already what weight is your car ready to run with rubber tyres and any weights added ?

My CXL turned up today ready for building tomorrow but trying to figure out if i would be better off ordering normal sized lipo's or the shorty versions

Originally Posted by olhipster1

for anyone wondering. I have my CXL weighing in at 1385g with a standard weight body (3 layers of paint, too much weight)
low profile servo installed.
Tekin RS Pro
LRP X12 17.5
MM high RPM fan
MyLaps Trnsdr
TI screws on lower deck only
5600 2s lipo 65C
.

Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk

For those that have the CXL already what weight is your car ready to run with rubber tyres and any weights added ?

My CXL turned up today ready for building tomorrow but trying to figure out if i would be better off ordering normal sized lipo's or the shorty versions

Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk

BRCA min weight is 1350g here in the UK so looks as though i may have to go with the shorty lipo or run a good bit over weight.

Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk

BRCA min weight is 1350g here in the UK so looks as though i may have to go with the shorty lipo or run a good bit over weight.

Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk

BRCA min weight is 1350g here in the UK so looks as though i may have to go with the shorty lipo or run a good bit over weight.

Originally Posted by NiMo

The Stumpy I put in my one was 80g lighter than the full size LiPo.
This caused the car to be heavy one sided, even after moving the ESC over, and I still had to add 35g of weight (movable ballast).