dameetz

1) It depends what turn of motor you are using, lower turn will draw more current thus shorter run time.
2) Generally the higher the Amp rating the lower the motor turn you can use.
3) Simple formula to match BL motor equivalent to Brushed motor is (x2)-2 for example 5.5T BL motor, so 5.5x2= 11, 11-2=9 therefore 5.5T BL motor is like equivalent of 9T brushed motor.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Which would be the hobbywing system/combo to buy to race legally on 13,5 brushless class ?

thanks,

Pat

TBOTubed

What I've found with these systems even though 5.5 might be the recomended FDR, being sensorless you have to raise that number to miminise the cogging on take off. Cogging is mostly due to the ECS not being to tell at what position the rotor is in and when it powers the windings, one at a time-A B C A B C , the rotor kind of jerks around until it spins in the proper direction. To get this to happen sooner, try going down a couple pinion sizes. Now by doing this it will decrease the top end of you car so you'll have to up the timing to get back up to speed, also up the punch control to try to get the motor to spin sooner. Remeber to keep an eye on the temperatures.
You've got to have a little play and try some things to get the motor going. There are some slick systems out there that at start the motor is sensored and the "unplugs itself" to get the sonsorless top end but ,big bucks$

Kirstner-I'll go down to the shop tomorrow and have a look at a castle creation

TBOTubed

I'm pretty sure it is just that some need another half of a turn of wire in the motor. Unlike brushed motors which basicly only have one configuration for winding and connecting wire, brushless have two- Delta and Wye. It is the two ways to wire a three phase motor. In a wiring diagram one looks like a triangle and the other looks like a "Y".I belive that the Delta wound motors will be whole numbers and they make up most of the low turns and the Wye are the .5 numbers but there are some low turn .5s also.

It is to hard to make it simple!

redzone

iTrader: (4)

my ezrun 60A esc 8.5t combo has died, it got splashed with water. it runs the motor still, but at low speed, and the motor is chugging like it is not getting pulsed correctly (like its half trying to turn backwards while rotating) and the power caps are getting hot. i pulled the heatshrink off the caps and cleaned them with CO cleaner, and disassembled the esc and cleaned it aswell, but its still doing it. only thing i havnt done is pull the motor apart, but i doubt that will have any water in it..

any ideas what i should do from here? bit cheesed off of course, but my cousin is an electronics whiz, is there any schematics etc floating around for these? anyone had a similar problem?

dameetz

If I m not mistaken the EZRun ESCs are splash proof...so it might be your motor...just a thought...I might be wrong though.

maxtamiya

Hello everybady

I'm Italian and I would like ask you what is for your opinion the best combo for my truck http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c90bb...e=channel_page
I havent decided if better for me the

Hobbywing EZRUN-60A ESC, 5.5T Motor For 1:10

OR

Hobbywing EZRUN-60A ESC, 9T Motor For 1:10

wHAT IS BETTER???
tHANKS A LOT
BEST REGARDS

MAXTAMIYA

Drifting101

iTrader: (8)

I would say Hobbywing EZRUN-60A ESC, 9T Motor For 1:10

The Hobbywing EZRUN-60A ESC, 5.5T Motor For 1:10 would be a bit to fast in my opinion

redzone

iTrader: (4)

yeah next step is pull the motor apart.. the esc is SUPPOSED to be waterproof.. but who knows.

TBOTubed

I'm pretty sure if the motor 'drops a phase'(interrupted electrical current to one of the windings,there are three) it will chugg, moan and complain when you apply throttle. This would cause the caps to lose their minds.

If you dissassembel the ESC and it stinks and or there are funky looking bits under the heatsink it needs repair or replacement.
Try looking in the motor for the same thing.

I've let the magic smoke out of a few things in my day

redzone

iTrader: (4)

yes that makes sense, the esc doesnt have any exploded components or smell bad, so some hope there.. pulled the motor apart and cleaned and checked it aswell, very slight moisture (like i'm not even sure if it was water or a small amount of lubricant) just gotta hook a batt up and check it again. will also try my other spektrum receiver to eliminate that too...

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

5.5T !

TBOTubed

Hey Redzone-with the motor disconnected from the ESC use your ohm meter to check continuity between all 3 terminals to one another one at a time, there should be continuity between everyone(no resistance), There should No continuity between any of the 3 terminals and the outside case of the motor or shaft. With a volt meter hooked up between any 2 of the terminals, give the shaft a quick spin with your fingers,it should produce a bit of voltage, do this to every one.


Now, with the motor and esc hooked up like normal in your car,get out your volt meter, the negitive lead goes to the negitive of the battery,the positive you attach to one of the three terminals on the motor,turn on transmitter and esc with battery hooked up like normal, apply very light throttle, you should be able to read voltage, Maybe about 1 volt less than your battery voltage eg. 6.9 volts. Do this for every termial. If you increase the throttle to much you will get a lower reading because of the sampling rate of the digital volt meter. See how you get on.

Kistner -cant find any info on a CC Esc

kistner

iTrader: (12)

no worries, I am sure it would run fine and I still plan to get one soon.

redzone

iTrader: (4)

awesome info tbotubed i'll check it out