Tekin RS ESC sensored
07-07-2009, 01:15 PM
#4742
07-07-2009, 02:33 PM
#4743
Tech Master
What are the specs on the caps? I may get another one for my standard RS so I can use a 448 in my B44.
07-07-2009, 08:43 PM
#4744
Right not our drivers have been instructed to not share this software because of the issue. The team WILL be encouraged to share the new 200 version!
It's like a "questionable" photo of your girlfriend or wife, once it get's out you can never get it back...
I don't mean to be harsh but I feel strongly about this issue. I'd rather give you software and some known good setups that I can post with it so EVERYONE can hit the track and be close, close enough to whup some ars with the RS!
Guys run the cap that comes with the RS, it keeps the speedo cool.
The 448 is a bit much on a standard RS but I've done it. Make sure to get a 2nd cap to help and your gearing needs to be correct.
The cap is a 16v 330uf cap. The one we spec out has low ESR. I've had good luck with our G11 caps also which were 16v 1000uf standard caps.
Place them as close to the speedo for best results.
07-07-2009, 09:25 PM
#4745
Tech Master
Thanks for the cap info. I'd buy a Tekin one, but there is no-one in NZ that stocks Tekin, so I have to buy my gear from the US. Seems a bit excessive to order 1 cap from 10,000km away!
I think the testing and release of track-proven software is fantastic, that's why I bought a Tekin for my other car too. Being able to get tips from the team and their manager on here is gold for someone like me who races in the middle of nowhere with no-one else running Tekin gear
I hear ya on the dodgy photo's of the wife, won't be doing that again in a hurry
I think the testing and release of track-proven software is fantastic, that's why I bought a Tekin for my other car too. Being able to get tips from the team and their manager on here is gold for someone like me who races in the middle of nowhere with no-one else running Tekin gear
I hear ya on the dodgy photo's of the wife, won't be doing that again in a hurry
07-07-2009, 09:47 PM
#4746
Tech Adept
Looking forward to using v200 on my RS as well as the RS Pro I'm about to order.
07-07-2009, 09:52 PM
#4747
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
The flashing while in nuetral is the temp indicator. This is normal.
Have you tried to recalibrate your esc after updating the software? If it's found nuetral it should arm and drive the motor unless something else isn't set properly which it looks like it is.
You don't have a VC set though so I'm assuming you're running round cells?
Have you tried to recalibrate your esc after updating the software? If it's found nuetral it should arm and drive the motor unless something else isn't set properly which it looks like it is.
You don't have a VC set though so I'm assuming you're running round cells?
every thing is working fine now.
Went to the Tekin website and used one of the guys setups of there.
Bench tested and motor 145 C and speedy 144.5 at the posts is that ok.
Should run cooler on the track???
Thanks Steven.
07-07-2009, 10:01 PM
#4748
It's like a "questionable" photo of your girlfriend or wife, once it get's out you can never get it back...
I don't mean to be harsh but I feel strongly about this issue. I'd rather give you software and some known good setups that I can post with it so EVERYONE can hit the track and be close, close enough to whup some ars with the RS!
I don't mean to be harsh but I feel strongly about this issue. I'd rather give you software and some known good setups that I can post with it so EVERYONE can hit the track and be close, close enough to whup some ars with the RS!
07-07-2009, 10:35 PM
#4749
We will have the public version very soon. It won't be 199 rather 200. There is a known issue with 199 that I don't want to have customers/racers deal with. It can be "worked around" but I would rather make it right.
Right not our drivers have been instructed to not share this software because of the issue. The team WILL be encouraged to share the new 200 version!
It's like a "questionable" photo of your girlfriend or wife, once it get's out you can never get it back...
I don't mean to be harsh but I feel strongly about this issue. I'd rather give you software and some known good setups that I can post with it so EVERYONE can hit the track and be close, close enough to whup some ars with the RS!
Guys run the cap that comes with the RS, it keeps the speedo cool.
The 448 is a bit much on a standard RS but I've done it. Make sure to get a 2nd cap to help and your gearing needs to be correct.
The cap is a 16v 330uf cap. The one we spec out has low ESR. I've had good luck with our G11 caps also which were 16v 1000uf standard caps.
Place them as close to the speedo for best results.
Right not our drivers have been instructed to not share this software because of the issue. The team WILL be encouraged to share the new 200 version!
It's like a "questionable" photo of your girlfriend or wife, once it get's out you can never get it back...
I don't mean to be harsh but I feel strongly about this issue. I'd rather give you software and some known good setups that I can post with it so EVERYONE can hit the track and be close, close enough to whup some ars with the RS!
Guys run the cap that comes with the RS, it keeps the speedo cool.
The 448 is a bit much on a standard RS but I've done it. Make sure to get a 2nd cap to help and your gearing needs to be correct.
The cap is a 16v 330uf cap. The one we spec out has low ESR. I've had good luck with our G11 caps also which were 16v 1000uf standard caps.
Place them as close to the speedo for best results.
TOASTY!!!!!!
07-07-2009, 10:54 PM
#4750
So I must have missed somthing, why are people relacing the caps? You guysa are talking about the one that solders onto the + and - tabs for the battery????
Sorry for the lack of knowledge
Alex
Sorry for the lack of knowledge
Alex
07-07-2009, 10:56 PM
#4751
Randy Pike you got a PM
Alex
Alex
07-08-2009, 01:03 AM
#4752
guys i have 2 questions ,
1- now i am running with 16v 1000uf tekin cap, do you think i should switch back to dual 330uf caps?
2- does the temp sensor shows maximum value on the run or the current value when you look at it. (i couldn't place it correct on the car and not the lights are under the top deck, it's kind of a problem for me.)
halit
1- now i am running with 16v 1000uf tekin cap, do you think i should switch back to dual 330uf caps?
2- does the temp sensor shows maximum value on the run or the current value when you look at it. (i couldn't place it correct on the car and not the lights are under the top deck, it's kind of a problem for me.)
halit
07-08-2009, 05:06 AM
#4753
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Wiring the RS
Can someone post a pic of the with the wires attached? I was wondering if it is ok to remove the 5 posts and attach the wires directly to the holes in the board? Or do the posts have a needed or practical purpose. I am not a fan of spiderweb wiring jobs and will be mounting this in an F104 and need to keep the wires inside a tight location on the side of the car.
07-08-2009, 05:11 AM
#4754
Can someone post a pic of the with the wires attached? I was wondering if it is ok to remove the 5 posts and attach the wires directly to the holes in the board? Or do the posts have a needed or practical purpose. I am not a fan of spiderweb wiring jobs and will be mounting this in an F104 and need to keep the wires inside a tight location on the side of the car.
07-08-2009, 05:11 AM
#4755
Can someone post a pic of the with the wires attached? I was wondering if it is ok to remove the 5 posts and attach the wires directly to the holes in the board? Or do the posts have a needed or practical purpose. I am not a fan of spiderweb wiring jobs and will be mounting this in an F104 and need to keep the wires inside a tight location on the side of the car.
Pretty sure if you removed the posts you would void your warranty.
And the posts are the ESC's heatsinks in the Tekin. DO NOT REMOVE THEM