VPRTRL

iTrader: (2)

Try this: Not sure what motor you have, I used this for a 17.5

Gear= 106 spur/30 to 33 pinion(Depending on track size)(6.0 to 5.46 FDR)
Motor time=10 deg
Timing boost=8 to 15(watch heat)(Mine was around 145 to 165 deg)
Turbo boost=max
Delay.2 to .5(Depends on staitaway)

I ran this on a medium size track in Green Bay,Wi., about 70 to 80 ft back stretch, and it was fast as hell. Since then, I have switched to a TC5 and have also been messing around with zero motor timing and using the speedo for timing. It seems to work equaly well with a little more rip out of the corners. I also suggest you keep a close eye on this thread as all the people here are running this speedo and will be your best bet for info.

Enjoy

Danny-b23

iTrader: (3)

Just turned it on. There couldn't of been more then 2 or 3 LED's flashing, because I remember that the neutral LED was quite a bit further down the line then the ones flashing.

hardmankam

I run a T2'008 outdoor asphalt track. Back straight is about 25m (80ft) long. I have RSpro + Novak 10.5 (factory timing, ~ 12 deg), Spur=84, Pinion=25, FDR=6.38

My RSPro setting:
Drag Brake=30
Brake Strength=100
Natural Width=10
Timing boost=13
Turbo boost=max
Delay=0.7

Motor temp after 5 mins is about 50C, ESC is very cool.
I feel the turbo comes on a little too late. so next time I will reduce the delay to 0.5s.

With this setting, I can pull away from my friend's GTB+10.5 about 10m-15m into the back straight, and my friend's T2'008 FDR=5.8

Turbo is awesome!

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I have smoked a couple of 17.5s via too much timing without ever going past 1 LED on the ESC.

kenny myers

Could you send me a link to get it via email?

vabroom

If all goes well with the testing, it will be available for download on the 1st of Jan.

rccar306109

iTrader: (9)

Lets hope it comes out on the 1st!

kenny myers

thanks for the help guys

Thistle

Has anyone else experianced this?
I am setting up my RS Pro to run 1S lipo in 1/12, and have found some weird issues.

First, I'll tell you what I'm running.
RS Pro running V200 software, Reedy 4600 1S Li-po, LRP 13.5 B/L motor, Spektrum SR3500 rx, KO PDS949ICS servo.
Instead of a voltage booster, I am running the equivalent of a receiver pack. I am running a wire from the + battery terminal, to a switch, and from the switch to the - side of a AAA battery, and from the + side of the AAA to the + terminal of a third receiver plug. The speed control is switched off for this configuration. (I cut the plug off, and used it for the AAA battery)

So, first of all, I tried running the speed control with the 1Slipo function turned on, and although everything powered up, the speed control would only cog the motor over once, and then stall. I tried re-soldering the motor wires, tried a different motor, tried a different sensor wire, and confirmed that the battery was fully charged. I also disabled the voltage cutoff. No change.

Next, I removed the + pin from the RS rx plug, as I was told it shouldn't be there. When I did this, the ESC didn't even power up. (So I put the pin back in)

Next, I reset the ESC to V200 defaults, and left the 1Slipo setting off. Again, I disabled the voltage cutoff.
Now the motor spins, but does not react properly. If I pull full throttle quickly, it will spin at a steady rpm, (sometimes it won't respond) but if I back off the throttle, and reapply full, the motor rpm will slow down but does not increase when I give it full throttle. If I try applying the throttle slowly, it doesn't reach the same rpm, as if I pull full throttle quickly. (and again, sometimes the motor doesn't respond.)

Could some of the other settings be messing it up? Current settings are:
Drag Brake off
Reverse Strength off
Brake Strength 100
Neutral Width 56
Motor Type BL-FW
Throttle Profile 3
Voltage Cutoff off
Push Control off
Timing Boost 0
Turbo Boost 0
Turbo Delay .2
Sensored mode
1S lipo is not checked.

Any help is appreciated.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

why would you cut the switch off

avs

iTrader: (2)

first, there is another thread on tekin and 1cell lipo,

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...1s-lipo-q.html

did the calibration seem ok? ie do you get all leds flashing with max brake or max throttle?

since the version whenthe 1s mode was incorporated(v198?), the suggested setup is a booster or receiver battery wth the esc connected and powered on.

i havent tried the scheme you describe but the 1s option requires that the esc be powered by an external 4.8-6.0 source. i think it would be a easy check to use a std receiver pack just to bench test the basic setup, then you can try getting tricky with booster battery schemes.

Thistle

20 Smoke. I cut the switch off, because I knew the ESC would always be turned off. (And it was handy to use it for the AAA.
AVS. Thanks. I wasn't aware of that thread. I'll have a look through it. Yes, the calibration went fine, and the led's seem to indicate properly.

InspGadgt

A single AAA battery is not enough voltage to power the receiver as it is only 1.5v. You want a 6v receiver pack to properly power it up. Probably what is happening is the RS is sensing some power from the BEC but not enough to run properly. Also for the 1 cell LiPo cut-off function to work, both the RS and the RX pack need to be turned on and don't pull a wire out of the harness in the RX.

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

Single aaa in series with the power batt plugging into the power bus of the rec works excellent and provides 4.8v, works the same as running a booster and very cheap. We have many running that same setup in our shop and all working great.

We have seen one new rs that acted very similar in our shop. We were not able to get that speedo to work on 3.7 and the customer sent it in to tekin.. Occasionally with everything you may end up with a bad one..

Thistle

That's right... the AAA is wired to the 3.7 lipo... basically making it a 4.9 volt receiver pack. I've been reading the other thread, (not finished yet), but so far, I'm thinking the problem might be the fact that I have the ESC turned off. (I cut the switch off)