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Old 02-11-2009, 11:42 AM   #1
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Default Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A

Hey guys,

Time to start talking about 1s and the Tekin RS esc. Currently the setup we're recomending is to use a Booster or reciever pack and leave our red wire in and the esc switch in the off position. This provides full power from the battery at all times, but de-activates the lipo cutoff.

Run time isn't an issue with this for 8 minute racing. If you've driven one of these you can go around 12 minutes or more and you can tell when the pack goes flat indicating it's time to stop.

We're working on a 1s profile that can be used which will allow the same setup as above only keep the esc switch in the on position allowing the 1s voltage cut off to be used.

The team has tested this setup with great results. If you have any questions or are looking for setup help feel free to ask.
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:47 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Hey guys,

Time to start talking about 1s and the Tekin RS esc. Currently the setup we're recomending is to use a Booster or reciever pack and leave our red wire in and the esc switch in the off position. This provides full power from the battery at all times, but de-activates the lipo cutoff.

Run time isn't an issue with this for 8 minute racing. If you've driven one of these you can go around 12 minutes or more and you can tell when the pack goes flat indicating it's time to stop.

We're working on a 1s profile that can be used which will allow the same setup as above only keep the esc switch in the on position allowing the 1s voltage cut off to be used.

The team has tested this setup with great results. If you have any questions or are looking for setup help feel free to ask.
Is that safe? I mean, what about practice and fry a LiPo cell without knowing? It may sound like a BS question, but I wanted to ask and make sure.
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:53 AM   #3
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It's not a BS question, it's an honest one. If you've driven a car on 1s you can tell right away when it's done. It literally falls off pace when the batteries down. Usually around the 12 minute mark depending on motor and scale. 1/12 is 12 minutes but I'm sure WGT would be less as would oval.

We're offering this info up so exsisting users can get the most out of this setup. We are working on a 1s profile as I stated to offer a lipo cut off to work.

Using the switch in the off position you will get every bit of power out of the 1s pack, no holding back. The 1s profile will do the same but monitor the packs voltage to make it "safe."
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:06 PM   #4
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Just to add my experience with dumping in single cell. When the pack dumps it only takes like 15 feet to realize that it's dumping. I just coast to a safe place or use a little throttle to get there. The pack is only running at low voltage for a few seconds and the short dip doesn't seem to have a negative effect on the pack.

I've dumped my pack a few times this way and it still cycles out reasonably close to where it was new.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:23 PM   #5
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What happens if you just use the 1S to power the radio as well? less than full power?
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:36 PM   #6
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In many cases the BEC will not provide enough voltage on 1s to properly power the reciever and servo. This is especially true with 2.4ghz systems which are more prone to low voltage issues.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Hey guys,

Time to start talking about 1s and the Tekin RS esc. Currently the setup we're recomending is to use a Booster or reciever pack and leave our red wire in and the esc switch in the off position. This provides full power from the battery at all times, but de-activates the lipo cutoff.
I've been having great results with this setup as well using a 2s lipo receiver pack. I would like to run a booster instead but am having some trouble getting things working properly. Does the RS need to see the higher voltage from the booster through the receiver connection before the 1s battery is connected to the ESC? If so, does that require the booster input lead be wired to the connector on the 1s battery pack?

Thanks for your help,
Chris
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:56 PM   #8
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Actually, since we are leaving the esc switch off, the esc is not getting powered by the RX pack or booster. All power is coming from the 1s powering the motor. At this point the Rx pack is only powering the receiver, servo and transponder.

At this point, I can only comment on my experience from running a Rx pack, not a booster.
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Old 02-11-2009, 02:14 PM   #9
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I found last night at our track that you can carry alot more gearing than nimh and run timing up to 12deg plus full boost we run on 70x40 carpet track
gearing was around 74spur with 58 to 62 pinion with 1.750 rear tires. We had alot of guys ready to switch to 13.5's before these changes now I think there has been a change of heart

here are setting I ran
drag 25
rev 0
brake 85
neu10
motor blfw
throttle 5
volt off
push 0
boost max
current 0
sensored only
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Old 02-11-2009, 04:10 PM   #10
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I ran a servo wire directly from the Deans connector to the Chinese booster. Esc switch off. I hid the switch on the esc facing down in front front shock mount to keep it away from helpful corner marshalls. When the main battery is plugged in , it's on. This is with an M11/2.4 radio. It works perfectly every time.
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Old 02-11-2009, 04:15 PM   #11
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If you're using a rx pack/booster and the switch is off we don't look at the 1s pack at all for voltage. This is how you get full power from the 1s pack to the motor.
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:50 PM   #12
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.

Last edited by Josh Keller; 09-26-2009 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:54 PM   #13
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Yes, if the esc switch is off we're not monitoring the voltage of the battery.
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Old 02-12-2009, 09:50 AM   #14
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I thought the Novak Booster was just only a booster and not a cutoff

Can anyone confirm if its just a booster or a booster w/cutoff?
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:07 AM   #15
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So when would you run a 1s pack. All my packs says 2s. Also I just purchased a tekin rs system with the 13.5, is there anything special I need to do.
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