kawada

Hi Guys..

M new on 1/10 pan cars.. pls advise what is the right gearing on the followings with 64P spur : -

- Lipo 7.4V with Novak 10.5T BL

- Lipo 7.4V with Katana 23T

- 5 cells nihm with Katana 23T

Wheel dia 61mm

Thx in advance

Dasmopar

I ran my car for the first time yesterday at a club race. Car seemed really good right out of the box. I cut the tires down a good bit but other than that it's pretty much a straight up kit car.

I TQ'd and won the main.

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

First impression....Wow!

Running the 17.5 LiPo combo the first day on the track I was .4 tenths faster (and more consistant) then my best 13.5 rubber times within 2 runs. This car is dialed, easy to drive, predictable, and most of all fun! The 17.5 is plenty fast for our med sized carpet track (now their gunna try 21.5 & 13.5 4 cell) to keep the class speeds under control).

Nice design CRC...works great. Going to run again tonight for 2nd day on the track with 21.5.

Getting back on this. I dont personally see a need for a weighted tray on this car. After balancing I only needed another 12 grams to make 1133. A weighted tray would take the car over weight running the setup I have with 17.5 and Orion 3600....in fact just changing to my SMC5000 would take me over weight.

T4-RC8 RACER77

Hi guys I need help on a servo for the yen x 10 car what fits and what brands please?

alan1467

I'm using a Futaba 9602 and it fits great, I think any servo that fits 1/12th scale is ok

T4-RC8 RACER77

this is going to sound dumb but , how thick is the chassis, i am tring to decide between the crc gen x 10 and the rc10r5. how do u all like the car????

s13evo

iTrader: (8)

hi can anyone confirm that the CRC Gen x 1/12th and GenX10 1/10th cars both use the same FRONT pro-strut suspension parts, springs, etc??

i cant tell which is made for the 1.10th version and which is the 1.12th version when ordering on the website. im guessing they use the same parts or they need to start separating them into catagorys for easy buying.

thanks in advance.

Team CRC

iTrader: (1)

Yes, many of the parts are the same. Arms, arm mounts, ride spacers, steering blocks, upper and lower pivot balls are all the same.

We utilize the extra space that the 1:10th wheel allows us to make the suspension have more travel. The 1/10th Pro-Strut uses a longer king pin and longer front spring with a spring bucket. Also, the steering arm where the tie rod attaches is larger on the 1:10th version. Again, all the differences are the result of the larger 1:10th wheel.

The 1/10th unit is #3241 and the 1:12th is #3240.

Team CRC

iTrader: (1)

Just a quick note to let all the forum members know that the CRC Gen-X 10 had great success this weekend at the U.S. Indoor Champs in Cleveland. Tom Firsching took his Gen-X 10 to a dominate T.Q. and A-main victory. A number of Gen-X 10’s joined Tom in the A-main.

We are just getting back to speed after the long race weekend, and we will get Tom’s setup posted on here real soon. We also have a blank setup sheet created now and will post setups from Mark Smyka’s Vegas winning car.

Recently, some have questioned whether the inline design of the Gen-X 10 would perform on the race track, especially with NimH cells. Not only does the Gen-X happily accommodate both Lipo and NimH packs, there are no compromises in performance even with the flexibility of the car. Vegas and Cleveland, 2 big races, 2 big victories.

Thanks to all the supporters on the forum for the kind words.

espresso1967

iTrader: (18)

I've used the Kimbrough cover and came off in the middle of a bump almost caused me to get hit by this big 1/8th nitro. Never used it again, than I am using the carbide balls so really no need for it.

JiBBins

iTrader: (3)

Congrats CRC on the win... Very curious to see Toms set-up

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

double post

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

The Futaba 9650 fits well and performs well, and can be had for around $60.00.

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=2313

Dasmopar

+1!!!!!1!!111!

I sent Frank a PM but I'm sure his PM box is full of people like me bugging him for info.

tfirsching

I'll try to get all of my setup on here, if I miss anything let me know.

Front end

middle track width hole
long wheelbase
trailing axles
standard upper arm
full caster
2 deg camber
10 deg blocks
blue spring (same as side spring)
king pin length - .580 from bottom of steering block to e-clip groove
10,000 silicone on kingpins
used the middle hole on the graphite steering arms for the tie rod
kimbrough mid size servo saver (not sure if it makes a difference or not)
CRC front end stiffener plate (p/n 1785)

Center

shock - 35 wt oil and 30 lb spring
shock in kit location (second hole from bottom)
battery all the way forward

Rear

tubes - 10,000 wt (blue cap)
red side springs - about 1 turn preload
wide body mount plates (p/n 1771)
2 .020 shims under the front of the side links (you have to re-set the football to do this) for a little rear steer.

Ride Height 4.25mm all the way around

Tires

2.08 front and rear
front glued all the way to the edge - 7/8 traction compound
rear "safety" glue (just the seam between plastic and foam) - full traction compound

You can run less front traction and less glue, but I found a little more corner speed doing it this way. At club race grip levels I ran less traction and less glue. Dont try to run that much traction unless you have the front glued all the way up, I tried, it wasn't pretty.

Very little dual rate, used more than 3/4 or the lane to do a u-turn

Protoforn Sophia body

I ran a JR 3550 servo and it seems plenty strong enough for these bigger cars.

The car was easy and fun to drive. Again, if I forgot any aspect of the setup, let me know and I'll get it on here.