FOXY923

I know what you mean. I was wondering if my kit was old or the pics were not of the actual production front end. I'm not too worried. What's that turnbuckle do anyway?

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

A turnbukle or tube connecting the two front suspension reactive caster blocks will stiffen the suspension a little. Good for high traction asphalt or carpet.
John

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Will the CRC 1/12th scale cross brace work on the X 10?

FOXY923

Why is the kit missing this then? Is it an option part?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

There is an optional cross brace for Gen 1/12th cars. Just have to go to the CRC site to see it.

Thinking it is too short for the Gen 1/10 car though...

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

The 1/12 cross brace is likely to be too short. This one for the RC10L20 may fit at one of the width settings. I have one on one of my cars but it is trimmed a bit now.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3345&P=7

John

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Thanks John.

rushrush1

iTrader: (14)

That brace is 2.5 inches. My front end measures a hair over 3 inches in the middle holes. You must remember the front end has three different width mounting options. That must be the reason for the turnbuckle. The crc pics have an extra peice of carbon fiber that the ball studs mount in. Someone surely knows the full story. Oh well I'll just drive it.

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

When I inquired about this brace, when the cars first came out I was told the photos were taken from a prototype front end, and by the time the kits went into production the front end had changed.

Shawn.

alan1467

Tried my car yesterday ok at low/med speed but if I tried to accelerate on the straights it pulled badly to the side on hitting the power??? anyone any ideas, everything looks straight and inline etc

s13evo

iTrader: (8)

does it pull to the right or to the left?

alan1467

99% of the time right

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

I got the kit completed on Saturaday, just ESC and receiver install left to do. The car went together pretty well, I used a stainless steel cap screw to tap the other 2-56 holes and that went better. Also I must say CRC has good support with fast shipping, got spares on Saturday just in time to finish.

I used an associated TC5 spur, and the dia. of the diff ball holes is .020 bigger then the kit CRC gear I got (.010 per side). This looks OK although its very near the outter edge of the ring...I'm going to try this week. Also there are 12 holes for the .125 balls not 10 that came with the kit, so I'll be running just 6 diff balls to start. Open diff looks to be high maintanence...possibly 6 balls is better??

Any suggestions on best tire dia? I've read that over 2.25 traction rolls on others models (carpet). The CRC ones came in at 2.380.

I'll get some pics and first impressions later in the week.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Sounds like the diff is loose

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

I use 1/8 inch ball bearings in Kimbrough, Robinson Racing, and RW (from England) spurs on my pans. The holes are a few thousanth small for a snug fit.

The balls ride near the edges of the ring with one exception that I know of. The 66 tooth 48 pitch Robinson spur needs a full D ring and the balls ride farther inward. This long radius gives the balls friction the most torque to the axle. There are lightened D-diff rings available.

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1090

Fill up all the holes, or at least use all ten, to spread the heavy load on these balls.

Eventually get some carbide or silicon Nitride diff balls. They last a very long time. The diff is much smoother and has more grip with less tension.

Differential Cover
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTJU9&P=7

This Labrynth style seal for Kimbrough spurs will protect your diff from dirt if you like.

The carbide balls, however, just grind the dirt up and spit it out. Very infrequent maintenance is needed with carbide. I don't use the seals.

Carbide Ball Bearings
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS454&P=7



Alan 1467
Check that the left and right weight the same. Pick the car up at the center of each end with X-acto points. Make it even.

Make sure no mistakes on the rear axle. The left and right rear need to be the same distance from center.

Make sure no mistakes on the front end. Caster should be the same on both front wheels.

Use the penny test and check for tweak. Put pennys on the top of the front wheels slightly forward. Pick the center front up. Both tires should lift at the same time and pennys should fall off together.
john