CRC 1/10 Pan Car
#3646
What seems to be the 13.5 motor of choice and in what configuration?
Thanks and God Bless
Thanks and God Bless
#3647
Going further about the front end...
I use the 1/8" axle steering blocks for carpet with 1/12th king pins; and, the 5/36" axle steering blocks with 1/10th king pins for asphalt (using inside hole for steering links).
Always have the long upper A-arms for carpet racing (parts are #3277 cross brace and #3348 long arms); and, most likely the regular A-arm for asphalt.
Use a Kimbrough #200 mid-sized servo saver with custom holes that are closer to the servo's output shaft. FYI...I drill my own holes. Ackermann steering (especially for asphalt) is tuned by using spacers between the servo saver and the ball ends.
Almost always have the car set to its longest wheelbase for both carpet and asphalt. I like stable and smooth handling of the longer setup.
Usually have a #1776 adjustable cross brace in place for carpet racing.
Hope this covers the whole front end. But, there are still springs; and, I strongly suggest that you use the new style front and side springs.
Both Dave E and Brian B should have plenty more input for you about carpet racing setups. Then, there is always Dumper and SG1 too.
Cheers!
Bill
#3648
Matt Francis told me about him long ago.
EA has been supplying me with killer WGT-legal motors for years.
No...I am not in any way sponsored by EA...I pay full tilt boogie for great motors...LOL
Bill
#3649
Graphite front bumper (Spare - have broken 4-5 over 4+ years)
Steering knuckles - 1/8" & 5/32" (only real point of breakage in most cases)
Front springs - 1/12th and 1/10th
King pins - 1/12th and 1/10th
Long A-arms
Graphite Cross brace (goes with long arms) - modify by removing center section
Pro Strut Aluminum Arm Mounts - 5 & 10 degree (both durable and bling factors)
Multi-width front end brace
Front height shims
Front axle shims
Front ball bearings
Center springs - Encore firm spring set (new)
Side springs - 50mm/55mm/60mm (new)
88T 64P 16-ball spur gears
Spare rear axle (only damaged one when using 2S battery packs)
#3381 Rear height adjusters - all sizes
Rear ball bearings
Rear axle shims
Lunsford 4-40 x 7/16" socket head (not cap head) screws to evenly tighten the slider pod assembly (4 each)
Slapmaster Thrust Bearing (#134 all sizes) from Brian Bodine
Hope this helps.
Bill
#3650
Wow! Three posts in a row...Tired...Going to bed.
Bill
Bill
#3652
20-25* of timing (I start at 25 and go down if temps are too high)
stock purple ring rotor
gearing at 42/43-88
2.06" rear tires
I run on a high bite carpet track that's 40 x 88, approx. 9 second laptimes on most layouts.
This also works well on larger asphalt tracks
#3653
#3654
Tech Regular
I just got an SE kit and I broke the links as I was trying to pop them onto the balls.
Has this happened to anyone else?
Has this happened to anyone else?
Last edited by rossb; 03-03-2014 at 03:08 PM.
#3655
Tech Champion
Never heard of that happening before. Did you use a hammer to snap them on?
#3657
Tech Regular
CRC support took care of me.
#3658
#3659
"Modified/13.5 Spec Team Epic Team Epic TEP1081 Trinity D3.5 Spec 13.5T 19.3 May 30, 2012"
The infamous "illegal" motor of last year was specifically the D3.5 17.5T unit.
But, I agree that the Ron Shurr 13.5 motor is very good too.
FYI...I will be at TQ next week to practice on some real carpet again....Been a long time <sniff>
Bill
Last edited by Still Bill; 03-03-2014 at 08:05 PM.
#3660
To free up the side links, Dave Ehrlich of Team CRC had me slightly ream out the larger bottom side holes in the links. The side links should rock freely on their ball studs (without any slop). The bottom of the heads of the 2-56 screws that secure the links to each ball stud should barely touch the plastic of the link if all is done correctly. But, if the link moves up and down on the ball stud, you probably need to tighten the screws a bit more.
Bill
Last edited by Still Bill; 03-03-2014 at 08:03 PM.