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Old 02-25-2014, 08:03 PM   #3646
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What seems to be the 13.5 motor of choice and in what configuration?
Thanks and God Bless
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:50 PM   #3647
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
What is the difference in running the servo in front of the links vs behind them? Just weight balance? Does the car handle differently?
I run the servo in front for both carpet and asphalt. I am pretty much a believer in having the servo as low as possible and forward.

Going further about the front end...

I use the 1/8" axle steering blocks for carpet with 1/12th king pins; and, the 5/36" axle steering blocks with 1/10th king pins for asphalt (using inside hole for steering links).

Always have the long upper A-arms for carpet racing (parts are #3277 cross brace and #3348 long arms); and, most likely the regular A-arm for asphalt.

Use a Kimbrough #200 mid-sized servo saver with custom holes that are closer to the servo's output shaft. FYI...I drill my own holes. Ackermann steering (especially for asphalt) is tuned by using spacers between the servo saver and the ball ends.

Almost always have the car set to its longest wheelbase for both carpet and asphalt. I like stable and smooth handling of the longer setup.

Usually have a #1776 adjustable cross brace in place for carpet racing.

Hope this covers the whole front end. But, there are still springs; and, I strongly suggest that you use the new style front and side springs.

Both Dave E and Brian B should have plenty more input for you about carpet racing setups. Then, there is always Dumper and SG1 too.

Cheers!

Bill
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:00 PM   #3648
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What seems to be the 13.5 motor of choice and in what configuration?
Thanks and God Bless
Simple answer...Ask EA (Eric Anderson Motorsports).

Matt Francis told me about him long ago.

EA has been supplying me with killer WGT-legal motors for years.

No...I am not in any way sponsored by EA...I pay full tilt boogie for great motors...LOL

Bill
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:31 PM   #3649
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Also what kind of spares or option parts should I keep on hand for my SE?
Quickly...Front to back...

Graphite front bumper (Spare - have broken 4-5 over 4+ years)
Steering knuckles - 1/8" & 5/32" (only real point of breakage in most cases)
Front springs - 1/12th and 1/10th
King pins - 1/12th and 1/10th
Long A-arms
Graphite Cross brace (goes with long arms) - modify by removing center section
Pro Strut Aluminum Arm Mounts - 5 & 10 degree (both durable and bling factors)
Multi-width front end brace
Front height shims
Front axle shims
Front ball bearings
Center springs - Encore firm spring set (new)
Side springs - 50mm/55mm/60mm (new)
88T 64P 16-ball spur gears
Spare rear axle (only damaged one when using 2S battery packs)
#3381 Rear height adjusters - all sizes
Rear ball bearings
Rear axle shims

Lunsford 4-40 x 7/16" socket head (not cap head) screws to evenly tighten the slider pod assembly (4 each)

Slapmaster Thrust Bearing (#134 all sizes) from Brian Bodine

Hope this helps.

Bill
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:34 PM   #3650
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Wow! Three posts in a row...Tired...Going to bed.

Bill
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:23 PM   #3651
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Thanks for all the info Bill!
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:43 AM   #3652
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Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
What seems to be the 13.5 motor of choice and in what configuration?
Thanks and God Bless
I've had good luck with D3.5 based 13.5's.
20-25* of timing (I start at 25 and go down if temps are too high)
stock purple ring rotor
gearing at 42/43-88
2.06" rear tires

I run on a high bite carpet track that's 40 x 88, approx. 9 second laptimes on most layouts.
This also works well on larger asphalt tracks
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:39 PM   #3653
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Thanks for all the info Bill!
Got to get you up to speed so you can duel with Dave and Brian...LOL

Bill
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:14 PM   #3654
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I just got an SE kit and I broke the links as I was trying to pop them onto the balls.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Last edited by rossb; 03-03-2014 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:31 PM   #3655
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Never heard of that happening before. Did you use a hammer to snap them on?
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:35 PM   #3656
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Did you try putting the links on the balls backwards? I believe one side has a slightly bigger opening. But strange that would happen none the less.
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:07 PM   #3657
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CRC support took care of me.
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Old 03-03-2014, 06:53 PM   #3658
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What seems to be the 13.5 motor of choice and in what configuration?
Thanks and God Bless
I'm running Shurr Speed stock spec 13.5 it's a supa fast motor and a great alternative the illegal D3.5 motors.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:41 PM   #3659
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I'm running Shurr Speed stock spec 13.5 it's a supa fast motor and a great alternative the illegal D3.5 motors.
Sorry; but, the "illegal" motor you describe above is still legal per the Approved ROAR Motors list...

"Modified/13.5 Spec Team Epic Team Epic TEP1081 Trinity D3.5 Spec 13.5T 19.3 May 30, 2012"

The infamous "illegal" motor of last year was specifically the D3.5 17.5T unit.

But, I agree that the Ron Shurr 13.5 motor is very good too.

FYI...I will be at TQ next week to practice on some real carpet again....Been a long time <sniff>

Bill
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Last edited by Still Bill; 03-03-2014 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:52 PM   #3660
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I just got an SE kit and I broke the links as I was trying to pop them onto the balls.

Has this happened to anyone else?
Only, only, only when I tried to attach them up-side-down. The ribs on the side links go up; and, the larger holes for the 2-56 screws go outward.

To free up the side links, Dave Ehrlich of Team CRC had me slightly ream out the larger bottom side holes in the links. The side links should rock freely on their ball studs (without any slop). The bottom of the heads of the 2-56 screws that secure the links to each ball stud should barely touch the plastic of the link if all is done correctly. But, if the link moves up and down on the ball stud, you probably need to tighten the screws a bit more.

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Last edited by Still Bill; 03-03-2014 at 09:03 PM.
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