CPatrick

Hey Mitropoulos,

That's a very sharp and clean Pro 4! I'm sorry that I'm not in the market for another Pro 4, but I was wondering if you could tell me where you found those anodized shock mounts?

I've finally begun to race my Pro 4, and now know that I should have spent more time with a cheap basher. This thing is so damn fast and responsive that I can't begin to imagine driving it on carpet with a one-way. And it's super quiet.

In the last 3 weeks, I've broken 2 front suspension arms, 1 rear C-hub, 1 front C-hub, and managed to crack a Parma wheel. When I manage to keep the car off the walls, it's a rocket.

floodo1

the aluminum shock balls are an HPI part. 8 dollars per 4 pack iirc. A HUGE Improvement over the plastic balls. a MUST if you ask me. i never collapsed a plastic ball on the top screw, but i squashed ALL of my lower ones. the aluminum balls cant be crushed, but they also fit better (less slop).

moving on: hahahah i was reading about all your broken parts and im like "wow thats a lot of stuff" then i see the parma wheel and i get all ready to post "stop hitting stuff so hard!" and then you're like "i hit the wall too much!" hahahah

but yeah aluminum shock balls are one of the best upgrades, wish i had a p/n to throw down, shouldnt be hard to find tho

Din Viesel

I was looking at the Andy Moore setup for carpet and wanted to try it, but can someone tell me what the thickness is of the teflon washers he uses in his shocks? It just says 1 teflon washer or 2 teflon washers but no thickness!!
Also can someone let me know if they tried this setup and what they think! thanks

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

What do you guys think of the Delrin outdrives? I have a set when I got my car. I have not used them yet. Any down sides to them?

CPatrick

Thanks for the info floodo1. I'm on it.

Anyone remember me trying to get some Titanium CVD bones made for free? Well, I checked in to see if anything had happened with them and found them still sitting on a guy's desk. With the Holiday's approaching, and work easing up a bit, I think that I can ask one of the shop machinists to turn a couple, or show me how to make them.

Now, if I could only figure out how to make my own suspension arms and C-hubs...

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

The delrin makes for a super smooth diff. Combine it with some cermaci diff balls and you'll have one of the smoothist longest lasting diffs on the planet. No downside....unless you consider smooth..free flowing operation with zero wear and maintenance a downside

floodo1

main thing about delrin outdrives is that they are machind. therefore the tolerances will be MUCH higher. i know that i have a set of molded outdrives that are angled. that is the diff rings sit at an angle relative to the bearings, so the diff always gets tighter/looser as you rotate it! VERY annoying

Mitropoulos Jim

That's why Idon't like derling outdrivesahd don't ever use them,plus they are easy to break if you have a big crush!!!
CPatrick,thanks!It's my baby...you know...
About your question,floodo1 has answered exactly in the same way Iwould...

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

I think Floodo was saying he wouldn't use the stock molded outdrives.

If you are saying the stock outdrives are better than the Delrin you are sadly mistaken.I can't imagine what your smoking to make that kind of comment.

Mitropoulos Jim

I have seen aderlin outdrive in two pieces,after a bad crash.So,to avoid that I don't use them and I am satisfied with the stock ones.If you aren't,it's probably your mistake,mabe you build the diff the wrong way...

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I find the delrin outdrive more durable than the stock graphite parts.
the stock graphite parts are brittle and more prone to breaking. Delrin diff is super smooth and light...

let's not get into a battle of which is better or not..to each his own.

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

Yes I am sure I probably built the diff wrong

sorry nevermind

You stick with the stock and I'll stick with the Delrin.

Gary Fliegel

iTrader: (1)

Alright guys, I am looking at buying a Pro 4, standard kit, new in box. What are the absolute needed extras for this car? It will be run on carpet, so I know I will be chasing down a front diff for it. What are the recommended hop ups and changes I need for the car? Thanks.

Chrisgt2

iTrader: (12)

Definatly want the thicker chassis....either HPI or the BMI kit since it comes with the lowered shock towers as well. Stock towers dont let you put the body low enough for foamies

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

3mm chassis and top deck.

Also HPI makes some hopup shock pistons,bladders, and o-rings. I would look into those as they do smooth the shocks.They aren't a necessity, but if I wear gonna build them I would go with the firm bladders and the low friction 30 o-rings, 1.1 mm pistons.