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Old 05-22-2010, 11:10 AM   #8926
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
How much of your front tires do you sauce? We've been experimenting lately with saucing more than 1/2 the front and it causes an insane amount of steering, especially mid-corner. You might have to counteract some of it with setup to get the right feel.

What's the height of your inside front camber link? You could try lowering those a bit.
I apply equal amounts of tire compound and equal coverage on the front and rear tires with no lag in time of applicaiton. I've experimented with Tire Tweak and Niftec tire compounds with similar results (as far as I can tell). When applying half of the front tires is it the inner half or outer half?

The inside front camber link height is 4mm (1mm +3mm) and is in the inner most position in the upper bulk head.

Thanks.

John
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:31 PM   #8927
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Definitely liking the Spec R geardiff so far. It builds up sooooo smooth. The fit and finish of the parts is good. I did notice a small amount of oil leaking show up on the pulley teeth. I am running the rear belt pretty tight to keep it from skipping. Ran about 8k oil (mostly 10k with some 5k mixed in) and it did not change the cornering characteristics much, but it gave the car a lot of snap off the line and out of tight corners.

The best thing is how smooth it is, and it STAYS smooth.

From what I have seen the leakage is from the center paper seal. I didn't notice any leakage from the outdrive. I have a second diff and I am considering putting some "gasket maker" from the auto parts store on the paper seal before putting the two diff halves together. Definitely buy a set of extra gears and a set of extra seals when you order the diff.
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Old 05-22-2010, 08:43 PM   #8928
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Originally Posted by double_green View Post
I apply equal amounts of tire compound and equal coverage on the front and rear tires with no lag in time of applicaiton. I've experimented with Tire Tweak and Niftec tire compounds with similar results (as far as I can tell). When applying half of the front tires is it the inner half or outer half?

The inside front camber link height is 4mm (1mm +3mm) and is in the inner most position in the upper bulk head.

Thanks.

John
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:05 AM   #8929
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got the Exotek together, its nice, but taping the battery in is not as easy
as stock, but the chassis ran well, now my car looks really narrow.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:21 PM   #8930
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Default Gearing Question

Hey guys, I have a quick gearing question. I'm running a 416we rubber 17.5 Ballistic with a LRP Sphere TC esc on a medium asphalt track. Where should I start as far as gearing? I have 64p gears by the way. This past weekend I ran 100/47 for a fdr of 4.37. The car was great in the infield but lacked a little mid way down the straight. Thanks
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Old 05-23-2010, 04:49 PM   #8931
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My apologies if this has already been asked. I just noticed that smokem-racing and exotek make lipo only chassis. Just wondering if anyone has ran either or and could give me some feed back on how they ran and/or their opinion on if it is a good option to get. I run pretty much exclusively on carpet.
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:40 PM   #8932
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Originally Posted by double_green View Post
Hi guys,

I am reaching out to the more experienced racers on this board to get a good starting setup for the 416x. My local track features 100 feet by 46 feet of inch and a half of tennis court grade asphalt. Its an indoor temperature controlled track and the tire of choice is Jaco Blues. The past several weeks I've been at the track for several test and tune sessions as well as a weekly Thursday night race. I started out with the factory recommended setup (build manual).

Ride height - f/r = 5mm
camber - f = 1.5 & r = 2
droop - f = 3.5mm over ride height & r = 3mm over ride height
Toe-in - f = 1degree out & r = 3degree in
Shock oil - f/r = 40 (Associated oil)
Shock spring - f = Tamiya white & r = Tamiya blue
Shock position and all other settings are exactly as the build guide

I'm new to the hobby so I'll do my best to describe what is going on with the car. It appears that the car is pushing mid way and on the exit of the turn. The initial turn in (entry) seems fine as I feel the car rotates very well. However, during the mid corner and on exit the car seems to push and/or unload very early.

Thanks in advance for the recommendations and suggestions.

-John
I assume your running at frederick? The big thing with that track since it is so high bite is that you want 1mm under the rear susp.mounts. That should free the car up I ran less droop the last time I was there, 2/2.5 over. Try that and see where youre at. IIRC the kit has 3mm/3mm under the rear camber links, I like 4mm on the inside there (everywhere, really).
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:39 PM   #8933
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Default ETS

Looking at the pics from ETS it looks like the TRF team were running a few unusual setups, and they look to vary quite a bit from driver to driver too.

Victor running gold HPI front and (I think) pink HPI rear springs with the standard chassis
Marc running silver HPI all around with modded chassis and flipped belts
Yannick running gold/silver and the exotek chassis, it also looks like his front shocks are on hole 2 or 3 of the arm instead of hole 1, they are really upright

I didn't see any shots of Jilles' chassis, no doubt he'll post his setup when he gets around to it.I've never seen him run anything harder than HPI silver so it'll be interesting to see where he ended up
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:14 PM   #8934
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Looking at the pics from ETS it looks like the TRF team were running a few unusual setups, and they look to vary quite a bit from driver to driver too.

Victor running gold HPI front and (I think) pink HPI rear springs with the standard chassis
Marc running silver HPI all around with modded chassis and flipped belts
Yannick running gold/silver and the exotek chassis, it also looks like his front shocks are on hole 2 or 3 of the arm instead of hole 1, they are really upright

I didn't see any shots of Jilles' chassis, no doubt he'll post his setup when he gets around to it.I've never seen him run anything harder than HPI silver so it'll be interesting to see where he ended up

here's a pic of Jilles' car from the ETS fri practice (courtesy of redrc.net).
looks like HPI silvers all around. too bad he was out-motored on the straight despite being very fast in the infield.
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:24 PM   #8935
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Hi Guys,
I recently ordered a Smokem chassis and, while I patiently wait, I noticed it has holes at the ends of the battery slots for what I assume are lipo "holders". Does anyone know which ones fit though? I'd like to pick some up to make it easier to align the battery.

Thanks,
Jose
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:38 AM   #8936
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what's the easiest way to remove outdrives from your spool?
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:47 AM   #8937
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what's the easiest way to remove outdrives from your spool?
Take a pair on pliers and carefully squeeze the plastic cups (on the very end of them) together and then slide off the blue coupler. Pull out the pin holding in the plastic cup.
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:03 AM   #8938
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what's the easiest way to remove outdrives from your spool?
If you are not re-using them, cut the flanges off the plastic with an Xacto and the aluminum sleeves will slide right off.

If you want to reuse them, well, good luck...
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:09 AM   #8939
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here's a pic of Jilles' car from the ETS fri practice (courtesy of redrc.net).
looks like HPI silvers all around. too bad he was out-motored on the straight despite being very fast in the infield.
he was out speedo'd

every one else was using the stock spec programs in GM speedos

Jilles refused as he is sponsored to use one make!!!
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:24 AM   #8940
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If you are not re-using them, cut the flanges off the plastic with an Xacto and the aluminum sleeves will slide right off.

If you want to reuse them, well, good luck...
Thanks, and needs lot's of it.
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