Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#8911
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)

can someone tell me if this would be better than the original ball diff?
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/gear-d...16-p-3773.html
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/gear-d...16-p-3773.html
#8913
#8914

Myself and M-Technic should be able to give a first hand report tonight. We bought a few diffs from Spec R, and they are due to show today.
I ran a gear diff in my Serpent S400. The diff suited me, and gives tremendous forward bite. I liked the consistency of the Diff, as well as the maintenance.
The problems we had with the diff... The belts kept on stripping, Sepent had to update their belts to accommodate the diff ( especially in Mod ). Leaking also was an issue, to get the seals in right , there was some hand fitting. I see the gears in this diff are plastic, hopefully that will not be the weak link.
Will report back...
I ran a gear diff in my Serpent S400. The diff suited me, and gives tremendous forward bite. I liked the consistency of the Diff, as well as the maintenance.
The problems we had with the diff... The belts kept on stripping, Sepent had to update their belts to accommodate the diff ( especially in Mod ). Leaking also was an issue, to get the seals in right , there was some hand fitting. I see the gears in this diff are plastic, hopefully that will not be the weak link.
Will report back...
can someone tell me if this would be better than the original ball diff?
www.egrracing.com/shop/gear-differential-set-for-tamiya-416-p-3773.html
www.egrracing.com/shop/gear-differential-set-for-tamiya-416-p-3773.html
#8915

Running a spool up front with a gear diff in the rear takes away any "give" in the drive train and I can see how it will be harder on the belts. Still, I would rather replace a rear belt which is cheap and only takes a few minutes, rather than build ball diffs (or make Carlos build them for me
).

#8918

how and why did he flip the belts?
#8920
Tech Regular

Cut holes in the chassis where the spool and diff pulley will be positioned (make the existing holes bigger). Than flip the belts and place the electronics as far to the middle as possible for better L/R balance. Finally drill a new hole for the servo holder and only use the normal shaped servo holder, so loose the L-shaped one. The servo is now 6mm shifted to the middle.
#8922

Cut holes in the chassis where the spool and diff pulley will be positioned (make the existing holes bigger). Than flip the belts and place the electronics as far to the middle as possible for better L/R balance. Finally drill a new hole for the servo holder and only use the normal shaped servo holder, so loose the L-shaped one. The servo is now 6mm shifted to the middle.
would doing this give u a noticeable difference in handling or is it simply to give a better balance L/R
#8924
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)

Hi guys,
I am reaching out to the more experienced racers on this board to get a good starting setup for the 416x. My local track features 100 feet by 46 feet of inch and a half of tennis court grade asphalt. Its an indoor temperature controlled track and the tire of choice is Jaco Blues. The past several weeks I've been at the track for several test and tune sessions as well as a weekly Thursday night race. I started out with the factory recommended setup (build manual).
Ride height - f/r = 5mm
camber - f = 1.5 & r = 2
droop - f = 3.5mm over ride height & r = 3mm over ride height
Toe-in - f = 1degree out & r = 3degree in
Shock oil - f/r = 40 (Associated oil)
Shock spring - f = Tamiya white & r = Tamiya blue
Shock position and all other settings are exactly as the build guide
I'm new to the hobby so I'll do my best to describe what is going on with the car. It appears that the car is pushing mid way and on the exit of the turn. The initial turn in (entry) seems fine as I feel the car rotates very well. However, during the mid corner and on exit the car seems to push and/or unload very early.
Thanks in advance for the recommendations and suggestions.
-John
I am reaching out to the more experienced racers on this board to get a good starting setup for the 416x. My local track features 100 feet by 46 feet of inch and a half of tennis court grade asphalt. Its an indoor temperature controlled track and the tire of choice is Jaco Blues. The past several weeks I've been at the track for several test and tune sessions as well as a weekly Thursday night race. I started out with the factory recommended setup (build manual).
Ride height - f/r = 5mm
camber - f = 1.5 & r = 2
droop - f = 3.5mm over ride height & r = 3mm over ride height
Toe-in - f = 1degree out & r = 3degree in
Shock oil - f/r = 40 (Associated oil)
Shock spring - f = Tamiya white & r = Tamiya blue
Shock position and all other settings are exactly as the build guide
I'm new to the hobby so I'll do my best to describe what is going on with the car. It appears that the car is pushing mid way and on the exit of the turn. The initial turn in (entry) seems fine as I feel the car rotates very well. However, during the mid corner and on exit the car seems to push and/or unload very early.
Thanks in advance for the recommendations and suggestions.
-John
#8925

How much of your front tires do you sauce? We've been experimenting lately with saucing more than 1/2 the front and it causes an insane amount of steering, especially mid-corner. You might have to counteract some of it with setup to get the right feel.
What's the height of your inside front camber link? You could try lowering those a bit.
What's the height of your inside front camber link? You could try lowering those a bit.
Hi guys,
I am reaching out to the more experienced racers on this board to get a good starting setup for the 416x. My local track features 100 feet by 46 feet of inch and a half of tennis court grade asphalt. Its an indoor temperature controlled track and the tire of choice is Jaco Blues. The past several weeks I've been at the track for several test and tune sessions as well as a weekly Thursday night race. I started out with the factory recommended setup (build manual).
Ride height - f/r = 5mm
camber - f = 1.5 & r = 2
droop - f = 3.5mm over ride height & r = 3mm over ride height
Toe-in - f = 1degree out & r = 3degree in
Shock oil - f/r = 40 (Associated oil)
Shock spring - f = Tamiya white & r = Tamiya blue
Shock position and all other settings are exactly as the build guide
I'm new to the hobby so I'll do my best to describe what is going on with the car. It appears that the car is pushing mid way and on the exit of the turn. The initial turn in (entry) seems fine as I feel the car rotates very well. However, during the mid corner and on exit the car seems to push and/or unload very early.
Thanks in advance for the recommendations and suggestions.
-John
I am reaching out to the more experienced racers on this board to get a good starting setup for the 416x. My local track features 100 feet by 46 feet of inch and a half of tennis court grade asphalt. Its an indoor temperature controlled track and the tire of choice is Jaco Blues. The past several weeks I've been at the track for several test and tune sessions as well as a weekly Thursday night race. I started out with the factory recommended setup (build manual).
Ride height - f/r = 5mm
camber - f = 1.5 & r = 2
droop - f = 3.5mm over ride height & r = 3mm over ride height
Toe-in - f = 1degree out & r = 3degree in
Shock oil - f/r = 40 (Associated oil)
Shock spring - f = Tamiya white & r = Tamiya blue
Shock position and all other settings are exactly as the build guide
I'm new to the hobby so I'll do my best to describe what is going on with the car. It appears that the car is pushing mid way and on the exit of the turn. The initial turn in (entry) seems fine as I feel the car rotates very well. However, during the mid corner and on exit the car seems to push and/or unload very early.
Thanks in advance for the recommendations and suggestions.
-John