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Old 12-28-2009, 01:27 AM   #7621
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Thanks TryHard. So now, where can I find the right reference of the of the upper and lower top deck? In the manual, I find a reference, but it doesn't work on Tamiya web site.

Thanks again
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Old 12-28-2009, 03:40 AM   #7622
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a LiPo tray for the 416X? I've been using a Bitty one in my TA05MS and really like not having to muck around with tape. The Demon tray and strap look really good, but can't seem to find anyone that has them in stock.

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Old 12-28-2009, 04:22 AM   #7623
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a LiPo tray for the 416X? I've been using a Bitty one in my TA05MS and really like not having to muck around with tape. The Demon tray and strap look really good, but can't seem to find anyone that has them in stock.

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Santa bring u a new toy Phil?
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Old 12-28-2009, 06:26 AM   #7624
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Carlos,

You going to be coming out again... if not, I have buyer for your WE...



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hey guys on the diff stuff... when i build my diff or that of fellow racers i always use 600-800 grit sandpaper, but i use something more coarse for the other side to help adhere better to the outdrive. im 100% sure that its perfectly flat after sanding the two sides so after all that my diffs are silky smooth and function flawless
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Old 12-28-2009, 03:16 PM   #7625
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Santa bring u a new toy Phil?
Must have been on the nice list

Although he did forget to include some different suspension blocks - 3deg rear toe is a bit much for 17.5, you think?

Hardest part now is thinking of a paint scheme for whatever body I pick up.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:07 PM   #7626
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Quick question and should be an easy one...

Stuffed my WE into the boards nice and hard for the first time yesterday -- in the "after race" playing of course!

So, naturally I consumed the front/rear suspension block and both of the steering turnbuckles -- a good opportunity to upgrade.

The car came with the 1C front/rear block -- is the 54174 1C/1XC split block set the equivalent one?

I run this car in 17.5 and 13.5 sedan. While I'm at it would I see a straight-line speed or other benefit to changing to something other than the stock 1XA/1F blocks in the rear? (those yield 3.5, right?)

Titanium turnbuckles for the steering -- are the 3racing ones good or should I stick with Tamiya?

Thanks!
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:09 PM   #7627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Chassis plates;
TRF 416 - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick
TRF 416WE - Cells in forward positon (5mm forward), 2.25mm thick
TRF 416X - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick, extra holes drilled for front bulkheads, motor recess machined 1mm further towards centre
2.5mm Carpet plate - optional part, 2.5mm thick, cells in standard position


Top decks;
TRF416 - two piece top deck, long front piece, and braced rear
TRF416WE - single piece top deck, no rear brace (3&1 screw mounting points)
TRF416X - Single piece top deck, but with longer rear section for new rear bulkheads, slightly thinner to clear motor mount moved in 1mm, and revised rear screw mounting points (2&2)

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Thanks man that is very informative. I suggesting if you can share the setup & tips to upgrade ori 416 to 416X on your site. That be great as a no. of ppl still have extra chassis to play around.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:18 PM   #7628
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
Quick question and should be an easy one...

Stuffed my WE into the boards nice and hard for the first time yesterday -- in the "after race" playing of course!

So, naturally I consumed the front/rear suspension block and both of the steering turnbuckles -- a good opportunity to upgrade.

The car came with the 1C front/rear block -- is the 54174 1C/1XC split block set the equivalent one?

I run this car in 17.5 and 13.5 sedan. While I'm at it would I see a straight-line speed or other benefit to changing to something other than the stock 1XA/1F blocks in the rear? (those yield 3.5, right?)

Titanium turnbuckles for the steering -- are the 3racing ones good or should I stick with Tamiya?

Thanks!
You might pick up a 1D and 1E block for the rear to give 2.5 and 3 a try. I think most people find that running the least amount of rear toe needed is the best bet. 54174 is the 2pc replacement for the kit 1C block. Don't be afraid to try 1D/1D up front, it can really help settle the car down.

I picked up some Lundsford turnbuckles for my car. They're a lot cheaper than Tamiya. I just measured the existing ones and found the part that most closely matches the length.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:25 PM   #7629
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54208 and 54209 appear to be fluorine coated hex ball connectors. Basically like the kingpins, but in the shorter lengths for camber links and such.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:10 PM   #7630
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
You might pick up a 1D and 1E block for the rear to give 2.5 and 3 a try. I think most people find that running the least amount of rear toe needed is the best bet. 54174 is the 2pc replacement for the kit 1C block. Don't be afraid to try 1D/1D up front, it can really help settle the car down.

I picked up some Lundsford turnbuckles for my car. They're a lot cheaper than Tamiya. I just measured the existing ones and found the part that most closely matches the length.
Thanks for the quick info. I'm going to try 1D/1D up front with split blocks at F/R and 1XA/1D in the rear.

Cheers!
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:14 PM   #7631
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Thanks for the quick info. I'm going to try 1D/1D up front with split blocks at F/R and 1XA/1D in the rear.

Cheers!
No problem, good luck. You might want a 1E for the rear to give 3 degrees a try. To be quite honest, it seems to be the sweet spot for this car in most situations. The car is particularly sensitive to rear toe (and rear roll center under the blocks).
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Old 12-28-2009, 11:34 PM   #7632
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hi guys, this questin has probably already been asked but could you please tell me what the difference is between the 416WE and the 416X? Thank you, your help is much appreciated
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:40 AM   #7633
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hi guys, this questin has probably already been asked but could you please tell me what the difference is between the 416WE and the 416X? Thank you, your help is much appreciated
you might want to check post #7627, just 5 posts before you... or flip one page back.
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:45 AM   #7634
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My friend is selling me his universal set from his 415. Does this universal set is the same as 416X? thanks
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:57 AM   #7635
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Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
My friend is selling me his universal set from his 415. Does this universal set is the same as 416X? thanks
i think 415 axle and 416 axle are different. as for the swingshaft, 415MSXX MRE default is 46mm so this should be usable on the 416X but only the front. if you use it at the rear of 416X, it will hit the diff nut.
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