4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
12-28-2009, 01:27 AM
#7621
Tech Apprentice
Thanks TryHard. So now, where can I find the right reference of the of the upper and lower top deck? In the manual, I find a reference, but it doesn't work on Tamiya web site.
Thanks again
Thanks again
12-28-2009, 03:40 AM
#7622
Does anyone have a recommendation for a LiPo tray for the 416X? I've been using a Bitty one in my TA05MS and really like not having to muck around with tape. The Demon tray and strap look really good, but can't seem to find anyone that has them in stock.
Phil.
Phil.
12-28-2009, 06:26 AM
#7624
Carlos,
You going to be coming out again... if not, I have buyer for your WE...
You going to be coming out again... if not, I have buyer for your WE...
hey guys on the diff stuff... when i build my diff or that of fellow racers i always use 600-800 grit sandpaper, but i use something more coarse for the other side to help adhere better to the outdrive. im 100% sure that its perfectly flat after sanding the two sides so after all that my diffs are silky smooth and function flawless
12-28-2009, 09:07 PM
#7626
Quick question and should be an easy one...
Stuffed my WE into the boards nice and hard for the first time yesterday -- in the "after race" playing of course!
So, naturally I consumed the front/rear suspension block and both of the steering turnbuckles -- a good opportunity to upgrade.
The car came with the 1C front/rear block -- is the 54174 1C/1XC split block set the equivalent one?
I run this car in 17.5 and 13.5 sedan. While I'm at it would I see a straight-line speed or other benefit to changing to something other than the stock 1XA/1F blocks in the rear? (those yield 3.5°, right?)
Titanium turnbuckles for the steering -- are the 3racing ones good or should I stick with Tamiya?
Thanks!
Stuffed my WE into the boards nice and hard for the first time yesterday -- in the "after race" playing of course!
So, naturally I consumed the front/rear suspension block and both of the steering turnbuckles -- a good opportunity to upgrade.
The car came with the 1C front/rear block -- is the 54174 1C/1XC split block set the equivalent one?
I run this car in 17.5 and 13.5 sedan. While I'm at it would I see a straight-line speed or other benefit to changing to something other than the stock 1XA/1F blocks in the rear? (those yield 3.5°, right?)
Titanium turnbuckles for the steering -- are the 3racing ones good or should I stick with Tamiya?
Thanks!
12-28-2009, 09:09 PM
#7627
Chassis plates;
TRF 416 - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick
TRF 416WE - Cells in forward positon (5mm forward), 2.25mm thick
TRF 416X - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick, extra holes drilled for front bulkheads, motor recess machined 1mm further towards centre
2.5mm Carpet plate - optional part, 2.5mm thick, cells in standard position
Top decks;
TRF416 - two piece top deck, long front piece, and braced rear
TRF416WE - single piece top deck, no rear brace (3&1 screw mounting points)
TRF416X - Single piece top deck, but with longer rear section for new rear bulkheads, slightly thinner to clear motor mount moved in 1mm, and revised rear screw mounting points (2&2)
HiH
Ed
TRF 416 - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick
TRF 416WE - Cells in forward positon (5mm forward), 2.25mm thick
TRF 416X - Cells in standard position, 2.25mm thick, extra holes drilled for front bulkheads, motor recess machined 1mm further towards centre
2.5mm Carpet plate - optional part, 2.5mm thick, cells in standard position
Top decks;
TRF416 - two piece top deck, long front piece, and braced rear
TRF416WE - single piece top deck, no rear brace (3&1 screw mounting points)
TRF416X - Single piece top deck, but with longer rear section for new rear bulkheads, slightly thinner to clear motor mount moved in 1mm, and revised rear screw mounting points (2&2)
HiH
Ed
12-28-2009, 09:18 PM
#7628
Quick question and should be an easy one...
Stuffed my WE into the boards nice and hard for the first time yesterday -- in the "after race" playing of course!
So, naturally I consumed the front/rear suspension block and both of the steering turnbuckles -- a good opportunity to upgrade.
The car came with the 1C front/rear block -- is the 54174 1C/1XC split block set the equivalent one?
I run this car in 17.5 and 13.5 sedan. While I'm at it would I see a straight-line speed or other benefit to changing to something other than the stock 1XA/1F blocks in the rear? (those yield 3.5°, right?)
Titanium turnbuckles for the steering -- are the 3racing ones good or should I stick with Tamiya?
Thanks!
Stuffed my WE into the boards nice and hard for the first time yesterday -- in the "after race" playing of course!
So, naturally I consumed the front/rear suspension block and both of the steering turnbuckles -- a good opportunity to upgrade.
The car came with the 1C front/rear block -- is the 54174 1C/1XC split block set the equivalent one?
I run this car in 17.5 and 13.5 sedan. While I'm at it would I see a straight-line speed or other benefit to changing to something other than the stock 1XA/1F blocks in the rear? (those yield 3.5°, right?)
Titanium turnbuckles for the steering -- are the 3racing ones good or should I stick with Tamiya?
Thanks!
I picked up some Lundsford turnbuckles for my car. They're a lot cheaper than Tamiya. I just measured the existing ones and found the part that most closely matches the length.
12-28-2009, 10:10 PM
#7630
You might pick up a 1D and 1E block for the rear to give 2.5 and 3 a try. I think most people find that running the least amount of rear toe needed is the best bet. 54174 is the 2pc replacement for the kit 1C block. Don't be afraid to try 1D/1D up front, it can really help settle the car down.
I picked up some Lundsford turnbuckles for my car. They're a lot cheaper than Tamiya. I just measured the existing ones and found the part that most closely matches the length.
I picked up some Lundsford turnbuckles for my car. They're a lot cheaper than Tamiya. I just measured the existing ones and found the part that most closely matches the length.
Cheers!
12-28-2009, 10:14 PM
#7631
No problem, good luck. You might want a 1E for the rear to give 3 degrees a try. To be quite honest, it seems to be the sweet spot for this car in most situations. The car is particularly sensitive to rear toe (and rear roll center under the blocks).
12-28-2009, 11:34 PM
#7632
hi guys, this questin has probably already been asked but could you please tell me what the difference is between the 416WE and the 416X? Thank you, your help is much appreciated
12-29-2009, 02:40 AM
#7633
12-29-2009, 02:45 AM
#7634
Tech Addict
My friend is selling me his universal set from his 415. Does this universal set is the same as 416X? thanks
12-29-2009, 02:57 AM
#7635
CMIIW