jonest

iTrader: (10)

sidecarphil1,

U meant XRays or Tamiya's?

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

he was driving a yokomo but the ECS i dont know where they came from for him

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

I just picked up a rheinhard edition 415 and was wondering what changes were made between the 415 and the 416 and so on. Also are there any parts that I should upgrade to or keep in my box that are nice tuning instruments? I wouls of posted this in the 415 section but there just has not been that much activity.

Apex

iTrader: (48)

Probably these...

Spec.R DCJ Universals for the TRF416/WE

The DCJ Universals eliminate steering chatter. The 3-piece design allow a larger pivot point than traditional 2-piece designs. Less steering chatter equals more aggressive on-power steering.
Fits 44mm Tamiya applications: 416 series, TA05 IFS/V2, TB03, etc.
This design is most suitable for 10.5 brushless motors and slower.

I think these may even cause a tendency for the car to traction roll especially when the dual rate is set pretty high.

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

Esentially you need to replace the entire suspension with current 416 bits. You can get the Short Suspension kit that includes most everything (54083) for about $70. Then you will also need the latest suspension mounting blocks to make up for the narrowed track. Kit standard is 1C,1C, 1XA, 1F. You can also use 1D, 1D up front and 1E (3*) or 1D (2.5*) at the very rear for less rear toe in. The 1F block is a little over the top at 3.5* toe in (more for mod racing). I suggest using the 1C split blocks (54174) from the TA05 Version 2 at the front of the car closest to the steering bellcranks. This will avoid any bending that's common with the inverted 1C block sitting atop spacers whch is standard 416WE/X setup.

You should also get the suspenison spacers that go under the blocks. Kit standard is to raise the rear blocks up to make the rear a little more loose.

You should also look at TryHard's 415 website for tyical late model 415 modifications unless you have the final 2007 version of the car (MSXX Marc Rheindard 2007 edition) which already has such mods.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

You don't NEED to do the short arm conversion. It's nice, but not necessary.

ioxqq

For the 416X, what parts number do I need to build a complete rear diff? thanks

Toh WL

iTrader: (6)

Do you have those of 46mm as an option.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

IMO, spec-R dcj pin seem to b easilly break...due to d small size of pin....and the quality is not tat good...

chrisk

iTrader: (32)

Jusy my opinion i think the short arms are great, the moment i put them on my 415 it changed it dramatically and went from a good car to an awsome car.

i didnt go the full suspension kit all i changed was the arms and blocks
ID ID (F) 1XA 1D (R) and used the 415 spindles and C-hubs

If you read back in the 415 forum probably 15 pages back there is some talk about the short arms and what is needed.

I miss my 415

jonest

iTrader: (10)

Perhaps 1D + 1D front could reduce chatter?

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

Your right there weak and they break to fast

Chris Griffiths

iTrader: (2)

Hi everyone!!!

Ive watched the giles red rc vid on you tube, and i see he uses tamiya hard grease on the out side of diff plates and schumcher on inside. now on video the hrd grease is in a small round tub but i cant find this anywere only tamiya hard grease in a tube?? is this the same? i think its called tamiya damper grease in the tube??

Thank you for any help


Chris

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

its tamiya anti-wear grease.

you can see a pic here:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53908



here's the tube:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53439

Chris Griffiths

iTrader: (2)

Links dont seem to work for me, just brings up a blank grey screen!

Thanks tho