RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

wait moment !

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

# ta-53928

steve eaves

iTrader: (72)

Also where can i find the we upper deck?is it a direct replacement for the
standard 416,thanks

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

HUH ????? Tamiya HUH

prinsdrift

Does anyone knows the TRF 416X front-rear weight balance? Is that %50 front-%50 rear. I thınk the rear is a bit more heavy than rear. Rıght?

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Lots of new US people trying out the 416, which is great to see. For parts in the US, Ampdraw is usually the best, and sometimes you'll get lucky with Speedtech. TamiyaUSA is an option at full-retail as well. I'll usually find the part number and Google for it, sometimes random shops in the US will carry parts, or US eBay stores. Unfortunately, getting parts in the US is really the bane of owning a 416. It's not impossible, but sometimes you've got not choice but to order from Hong Kong. :-\

If you're running on carpet, you might actually prefer the 2pc top deck.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

you need the short arms and wider suspension blocks e.g. C/C or D/D up front and XA/X/D/E/F

Do you mean as a roller? I would assume its a few grams heavier at the back compared to the WE but it doesn't matter because it'll all change depending on how you mount your electronics and what they weigh

steve eaves

iTrader: (72)

Thanks Craig,is there a site where i can the geometery of the different mount combinations,toe etc.thanks

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

Steve,is this what you are taking to millwaukee? I know they are great cars....

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I put Ed's toe block spreadsheet up on Google Docs in case people don't have Excel available.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...Tg&output=html

For people new to Tamiya or the 416, I definitely recommend spending time on Ed's site reading as much as you can, there's a lot of great info there.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Typically, 1XA/1E is the combination of choice in the rear, and either 1C/1C or 1D/1D up front. You can use your spare 1C/1D if the back if you want to try 2 or 2.5 degrees of toe, and the new kits come with a 1F if you want to go up to 3.5. You can get the other blocks if you want to mess with different combinations, but the 1XA seems to be the main choice on all surfaces, and it can be combined with C/D/E/F to get from 2.0 to 3.5 of rear toe.

The toe block thing is dumb, I wish Tamiya would stop it. But once you get your head around the letters it's pretty easy to roll with it.

artwork

iTrader: (82)

The one thing that spreadsheet does not show (or maybe I missed it) is the width of the front with the different blocks installed. Obviously using the same blocks with have zero sweep, but the width is what I am wondering about. Does anyone have that information any where?

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I thought I had already laid out about my switching to the short arm setup(but then again, my memory's not what it used to be, ), but if you remember the last Novak race, that's when I did the switch, Steve, & because I didn't check & duplicate the right droop settings before & after, I ended up turning my car into an oversteering beast. But since I reworked that, it calmed down just fine again(as you've seen, ). I do think the car transitions better now with the short arms, & does so without sacrificing overall grip...
Oh, & about the upper deck, I DO like the newer one-piece deck most of the time, & think it's a good tuning tool, even on carpet(& I've never yet felt I have too much grip, I got mine from RC Market back in early May & I haven't gone back to the two-piece since).....

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

He's finally starting to see the light....

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I'm rebuilding my 416, and building up my TA05 for VTA (it's been in retirement a while) and caught the two snuggling on the pit board. They're just so cute, I had to snap a pic! I love them like children!