BMI's DB12R
#8431
BMI DB12rr Lipo SOLD ...
sold ...
Last edited by tomkatn; 02-07-2010 at 03:20 PM.
#8433
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
You mean something like this...
#8434
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
after a couple hundred runs ive finally broken a bmi, one of the l-plates has gone into two pieces (got t-boned hard), ive got replacements but...
whats your opinion on the carbon flexplates vs the fiberglass? (i run purely on carpet)
ive tried the thin fiberglass flexplates and they are in my scraps bin, the thick fiberglass ones work way better
and i have to give jason props on building a kick a$$ chassis!!!
this is the only car ive owned that has lasted over 200 runs without breaking
and on a side note when i was driving the couple min after it broke i acted like it had a bad bearing, any other car wouldnt have been driving after something like that -let alone still driving that good
whats your opinion on the carbon flexplates vs the fiberglass? (i run purely on carpet)
ive tried the thin fiberglass flexplates and they are in my scraps bin, the thick fiberglass ones work way better
and i have to give jason props on building a kick a$$ chassis!!!
this is the only car ive owned that has lasted over 200 runs without breaking
and on a side note when i was driving the couple min after it broke i acted like it had a bad bearing, any other car wouldnt have been driving after something like that -let alone still driving that good
Last edited by jjbkozack; 02-06-2010 at 11:18 AM.
#8435
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Hi all.... Major help needed... I have been running the DB12RR with 1C Lipo and cant make runtime??? I have geared up and down and still nothing. Does anyone know the right gearing for Mod?
My set-up is as follows:
4T Motor 0 timing , LRP SXX ESC on throttle profile 4, geared from 38.5 mm to 49 mm.
At high roll out I made about 4 minutes, and at the lower I ran about 6 minutes. Keeping in mind with the lower roll out the speed was slower. It seems as if it runs as fast as 4 cell for 1 or 2 minutes and then slows down until it is very slow???
Big National event this weekend, so any help would be great. Most people still running 4 cell here and I need to stay on par.
Thanks
My set-up is as follows:
4T Motor 0 timing , LRP SXX ESC on throttle profile 4, geared from 38.5 mm to 49 mm.
At high roll out I made about 4 minutes, and at the lower I ran about 6 minutes. Keeping in mind with the lower roll out the speed was slower. It seems as if it runs as fast as 4 cell for 1 or 2 minutes and then slows down until it is very slow???
Big National event this weekend, so any help would be great. Most people still running 4 cell here and I need to stay on par.
Thanks
im running a 1cell lipo now and have found it hits the cuttof just after 7min with a brushed 6 or 7turn motor (sucking avg. 5300mah), for now im just running brushed 10t which if i take it a lil easier i can make the 8min, hoping in a year or so that the battery capacity will be large enough to handle insane mod motors
ive found a huge difference from a 30c to the 40c with modified its the difference of the voltage falling off after a minute to lasting the whole race with good punch
#8437
after a couple hundred runs ive finally broken a bmi, one of the l-plates has gone into two pieces (got t-boned hard), ive got replacements but...
whats your opinion on the carbon flexplates vs the fiberglass? (i run purely on carpet)
ive tried the thin fiberglass flexplates and they are in my scraps bin, the thick fiberglass ones work way better
and i have to give jason props on building a kick a$$ chassis!!!
this is the only car ive owned that has lasted over 200 runs without breaking
and on a side note when i was driving the couple min after it broke i acted like it had a bad bearing, any other car wouldnt have been driving after something like that -let alone still driving that good
whats your opinion on the carbon flexplates vs the fiberglass? (i run purely on carpet)
ive tried the thin fiberglass flexplates and they are in my scraps bin, the thick fiberglass ones work way better
and i have to give jason props on building a kick a$$ chassis!!!
this is the only car ive owned that has lasted over 200 runs without breaking
and on a side note when i was driving the couple min after it broke i acted like it had a bad bearing, any other car wouldnt have been driving after something like that -let alone still driving that good
Butter
#8438
As the DB10R thread seems dead since more than a month I have to ask here.
I used the thin CK plates at my DB10R and liked them alot. How could you compare the thin with the thick CK plates? Is the long/front position at the thick plates similar to the short/rear position of the thin flexplates or is this even harder? I just got the thin ones until now.
I used the thin CK plates at my DB10R and liked them alot. How could you compare the thin with the thick CK plates? Is the long/front position at the thick plates similar to the short/rear position of the thin flexplates or is this even harder? I just got the thin ones until now.
#8440
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
I will have a much better idea on the release of the new 1/12th and 1/10th car in a couple weeks. I will keep all of you posted so dont worry. I am going through the costs now to make sure i can keep the price the same. So far, it is looking good. The front end is the question at this point. Once i get the pricing on that i will decide if it is going to be able to be sold with the car kit or as an option part. It is hard at this time as the market of 1/12th seems to be going towards lower quality and less expensive. I dont want to take that route. I want to keep increasing quality and try to keep the same price. The market is getting tough and it gets hard to compete against cars that do away with nice machined aluminum parts and replace them with all cheap molded parts. I want to keep the strength and accuracy of the machined aluminum parts.
#8441
DB12RR Snowbirds Setup
Hey guys/gals,
I've received several PM's asking what the setup was on my 12th at the Birds so I figured I would post it here.. I took the Format from one of the PM's I received. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask on here or PM me and I will get to them ASAP.
Thanks,
Butter
Front:
.20 AE springs (shim kingpin for equal sag L and R....approx 0.5mm
0 toe
lilac or black if high trac.(Lilac had more steering using Sticky Fingers)
3.5mm
camber 1Deg
Rear:
3.5mm
#4 Red Shur lube in tubes
45 wt shock oil with piston holes drilled out.
gold spring
shock/antenna mount all the way back.
.5mm droop
Thin Prototype(Sorry guys!) cf flex plates w/no tweak screws.
Orange tires
battery in middle.
Body:Parma EE1
Tire Size: Front 1.63" (Sidewalls glued) Rear 1.68"
I've received several PM's asking what the setup was on my 12th at the Birds so I figured I would post it here.. I took the Format from one of the PM's I received. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask on here or PM me and I will get to them ASAP.
Thanks,
Butter
Front:
.20 AE springs (shim kingpin for equal sag L and R....approx 0.5mm
0 toe
lilac or black if high trac.(Lilac had more steering using Sticky Fingers)
3.5mm
camber 1Deg
Rear:
3.5mm
#4 Red Shur lube in tubes
45 wt shock oil with piston holes drilled out.
gold spring
shock/antenna mount all the way back.
.5mm droop
Thin Prototype(Sorry guys!) cf flex plates w/no tweak screws.
Orange tires
battery in middle.
Body:Parma EE1
Tire Size: Front 1.63" (Sidewalls glued) Rear 1.68"
#8442
I will have a much better idea on the release of the new 1/12th and 1/10th car in a couple weeks. I will keep all of you posted so dont worry. I am going through the costs now to make sure i can keep the price the same. So far, it is looking good. The front end is the question at this point. Once i get the pricing on that i will decide if it is going to be able to be sold with the car kit or as an option part. It is hard at this time as the market of 1/12th seems to be going towards lower quality and less expensive. I dont want to take that route. I want to keep increasing quality and try to keep the same price. The market is getting tough and it gets hard to compete against cars that do away with nice machined aluminum parts and replace them with all cheap molded parts. I want to keep the strength and accuracy of the machined aluminum parts.
#8443
Tech Champion
I agree...very much looking forward to seeing what the new front end will look like.
#8445
Tech Adept
Go Nuclear of Go Home!
Thanks guys (Showtime & Butter) for helping the rest of us along!