radio_car_racer

iTrader: (1)

THUNDER POWER 5000MAH 3.7V 40C LIPO

does it fit OK in the RR nimh chassis OK?

H I

iTrader: (18)

Hi everyone,
I’ve been running old DB12R with 4 cell nimh for few season and finally I‘m getting 1c lipo.
I will be getting RR lipo spec soon but I need little help.

1. Booster thing every one is talking, do I need this? And if so which brand is the best?
2. What else do I need to get to run 1c lipo?
3. How much weight does everyone add on? And where does everyone put it on?
4. Do I need to get faster motor to get same speed as 4 cell?
5. Dose run time going to be issue in Mod?(3.5-5.5 motor)

I use SP GT v1.0 ESC, AMB PT, Novak 5.5L or 6.5L BL motor, Futaba S9602 servo, Futaba 2.4 GHz R603FS receiver and 200mah receiver pack with regulator.

I’m hoping to get rid of receiver pack and regulator, as they are nightmare to charge between heats. I run out door in Mod here in Australia.
Sorry for many questions, any help will be great.
Thanks

C5Vette

Fits great! It doesn't have the bumps in the bottom to lock it in, so you need to tape it, but it works great!

InspGadgt

1) Some ESC and reciever combinations will work ok without one but it is highly recommended to run either a booster or a receiver pack.

2) A LiPo compatible charger if you don't have one.

3) That is going to vary from driver to driver depending what electronics are used.

4) With the same motor as you were running it will be slower than it was with 4 cell. But what motor you run will depend more on your class rules then how fast it is.

5) I'm not sure on this but I don't think it should be. LiPo packs are still around the same Mah rating (4000-5000Mah) in 1 cell and that is what really determines run time.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Just to echo what the inspector said and add this:
#1 - TQ makes a great booster which has been working great for me, here is a pic of my 1s setup on my 12r, the sm white thing next to the rec is the booster. And here is the TQ site http://www.tqcells.com/ I have also purchased some less expensive boosters which have worked well also. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7884

#3 - this will depend more on what the track rules are for weight, if your track is following ROAR then you will not have to add much if any weight.
#5 - I'd recomend getting one of the new 5000mah packs, as mentioned it should'nt be an issue but more mah never hurts

H I

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for info InspGadgt and chris moore.
I'm just worried about run time because track I'll be running National this year is huge track and going to need 3.5 motor to keep up. and I'm using up 4500mah on 5.5 motor in 7.5 min.
Any one running large track using 3.5 or 4.5 moror with 1c lipo?

InspGadgt

If your running a mod class then so will everyone else and they all will be running into the same issue with run time within a few Mah of each other. You may have to practice a little throttle management with a 3.5 to make run time but it should still be possible. Heck we used to make 8 minute races with 1400Mah batteries

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hey InspGadgt,

How its goin. About my servo mount holes I didnt to anything special to them I have a few pictures to show you mine.The wiring aliittle messy, but it a Killa on carpet

Hope this helps
Mike

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

Blue ??? I want one ! Or black would be killer also.

DK

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys. I was going threw my car this weekend and got to pod droop. How are you guys doing it? I tried blocking the chassis up and measuring it like that but when set to 1.5mm there is bearly any uptravel on the chassis when sitting at right height. I have been doing it by ride height and setting how high the back of the chassis lifts but not sure if thats the right way.

So whats the correct way?

DK

InspGadgt

Interesting that you moved the servo back and drilled the holes behind the slots...I may look at doing that myself. On mine I extended one of the slots where it was close and drilled a new hole on the other side.

InspGadgt

For rear droop set the car on it's wheels and push down on the suspension to give it a set, then measure the ride height right in front of the pivot. Now lift the center of the chassis until the tires almost want to leave the ground and measure ride height again, the difference is the droop.

For front droop set the car on it's wheels and work the suspension a little, then look at the gap between the lower arm and the steering block, it should be about the thickness of a shim.

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

Ok, I have been doing it right then.

For the rear,besides bumps, what effect does droop have anyway? I havnt really played with that yet so not too clear on it. The front is set with the smallest bit of droop it will let me do. But there is always droop in it to make sure the front isn't loaded. Some times thats easier said than done.

One thing I LOVE about this car. When you make a change, either it's right or it's wrong. There is no such thing as hunting to find what the change did.

DK

JonesyCGY

iTrader: (3)

I just thought I'd get subscribed to this thread. Last night was my first race with my new DB12RR and actually my first 12th scale race. Normal just drive the Tamiya Minis.

I was thinking the 12th scale was going to be a difficult to try to handle, but darn this car feels so good right out of the box. My first 12th scale night and I finished 2nd place in the main.

Wow what a ton of fun!

InspGadgt

PartTime, hope this helps: http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup

Congrats Jonsey!