Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#3736
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
The main reason to flipping the servo is to get a little more room for the electronics. When I changed mine handling was the same.
#3737
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Matt Howard when you do the Rayspeed Conversion can you use the stock motor mount. I was going to buy the chassis, toplate, towers and steering rack from Speedtech as he didn't have the whole kit inn stock but he has the parts so I was thinking of ordering the Rayspeed stuff that way. I was also going to just use the long ball ends on my stock shocks instead of buying the longer SS shock bodies.
#3738
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Unstable SD
I recently have reccuring problem with my car with off throttle steering and also left to right change of direction,being that I have to be very gentle when driving or else ...back meets front.Im running afront one way, 500 wt all round, yellow springs,6mm droop up front,4mm in the rear,no roll bars,cs 27 tyres 5mm ride front & back ,can someone help?
#3739
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Normally with a front one way the rear of the car was to swap around when you let off the throttle too much. Try making sure you have your speedo setup some forward movement. When the car is on the track it should just be trying to creep forward. That will take some drag off the car and the rear won't be so freed up and loose when you let off the throttle.
#3741
Ok... I spent a good amount of time screwing with the chassis last night... I'm going to believe that most of our tweak problems are coming from the top chassis plate... I was playing with the shock collars and adding and moving weight... I actually tried twisting the car a few times and it was still tweaked... So... I loosened the top deck, gave the car a good back and forth twist, lots of creaking sounds, and thrrew it back on the tweak board without tightening the screws and it was dead on... Track open next week so I should know how it's going to react after a good wreck soon enough...
#3742
would it helps if i countersink the screw holes on the upper deck??
#3743
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
Fire- I think it would help the car alot in the consistency department with a countersunk topdeck
wyd- yes the old motor mount works with the rayspeed chassis. I did exactly what your talking about, I bought all the parts seperatly but the new motor mount isn't out yet seperatly. There "should" be more complete conversions coming into the states this week, hopefully by the end of the week or next week hobby shops will have more.
wyd- yes the old motor mount works with the rayspeed chassis. I did exactly what your talking about, I bought all the parts seperatly but the new motor mount isn't out yet seperatly. There "should" be more complete conversions coming into the states this week, hopefully by the end of the week or next week hobby shops will have more.
#3744
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Re: Unstable SD
Originally posted by ark
I recently have reccuring problem with my car with off throttle steering and also left to right change of direction,being that I have to be very gentle when driving or else ...back meets front.Im running afront one way, 500 wt all round, yellow springs,6mm droop up front,4mm in the rear,no roll bars,cs 27 tyres 5mm ride front & back ,can someone help?
I recently have reccuring problem with my car with off throttle steering and also left to right change of direction,being that I have to be very gentle when driving or else ...back meets front.Im running afront one way, 500 wt all round, yellow springs,6mm droop up front,4mm in the rear,no roll bars,cs 27 tyres 5mm ride front & back ,can someone help?
Remove the servo arm ballcup. Try to move the servo link by hand, if you feel the hard spot at neutral, that's probably your problem. At least it was with my car. Remove some plastic with an x-acto where the ballcups hit (I removed some plastic off the hinge pin block), the problem should be solved.
Later,
Paul
#3745
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Thanks Matt. I don't know if I want to get the Rayspeed setup or wait for the tub chassis. I just like tub chassis's better overall. I can always keep tabs on the tweaking problem. The Rayspeed is a super nice setup so my decision is hard. I'm sure the tub setup will be pretty inexpensive as compared the Rayspeed setup. I guess I just need to sit back and think awhile on what to do.
#3746
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Ok... I spent a good amount of time screwing with the chassis last night... I'm going to believe that most of our tweak problems are coming from the top chassis plate... I was playing with the shock collars and adding and moving weight... I actually tried twisting the car a few times and it was still tweaked... So... I loosened the top deck, gave the car a good back and forth twist, lots of creaking sounds, and thrrew it back on the tweak board without tightening the screws and it was dead on... Track open next week so I should know how it's going to react after a good wreck soon enough...
Ok... I spent a good amount of time screwing with the chassis last night... I'm going to believe that most of our tweak problems are coming from the top chassis plate... I was playing with the shock collars and adding and moving weight... I actually tried twisting the car a few times and it was still tweaked... So... I loosened the top deck, gave the car a good back and forth twist, lots of creaking sounds, and thrrew it back on the tweak board without tightening the screws and it was dead on... Track open next week so I should know how it's going to react after a good wreck soon enough...
#3747
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
another thing I noticed with my SSG shock towers compared to my rayspeed and the regular black ones was the SSG ones did not fit tight against the bulkheads, there is about 1mm between the tower and the bulkhead. My rayspeed ones and the regular black ones fit tight so they're less likely to shift in a big wreck.
#3748
it seems like the reyspeed chassis worked out all of the issues that yokomo had with its original SSG and Black chassis. I've only heard of good things about the reyspeed. Now, the hard part, getting my hands on one
#3749
no offense but when you blow $130 on a chassis you must say that it is good
i think soon after the plastic tub chassis yokomo will release a Type J or Type R conversion kit for the SD which includes yet another new chassis
i think soon after the plastic tub chassis yokomo will release a Type J or Type R conversion kit for the SD which includes yet another new chassis
#3750
Roger: It really isn't hard to get the RS chassis conversion. I ordered mine from Rainbow Ten in Japan, who had the best price, plus reasonable and pretty fast shipping. Getting the whole conversion kit, instead of separate graphite parts is much better as it includes the motor mount, hardware, and is actually still less expensive than getting the separate parts in the US.
Rainbow Ten still has the RS conversion listed in stock, but I don't know whether this is accurate. The shipping only took a week (all the way from Japan) and I believe was only $15 or less. The conversion itself in imbetween $125 and $130.
In the US, you can only get the chassis, top deck, two shock towers, and part of the steering system separately for $150, and you still don't have the motor mount or some of the necessary hardware for the steering system.
Rainbow Ten still has the RS conversion listed in stock, but I don't know whether this is accurate. The shipping only took a week (all the way from Japan) and I believe was only $15 or less. The conversion itself in imbetween $125 and $130.
In the US, you can only get the chassis, top deck, two shock towers, and part of the steering system separately for $150, and you still don't have the motor mount or some of the necessary hardware for the steering system.