Airflow

iTrader: (13)

The Ti screw that Ive used still gives 2mm clearance inside the vector x11 motor unlike the 4mm clearance using stock screws.

I read somewhere in this thread that you have to use longer screws on
some areas of the tc5 to increase durability, Im just using my instincts in
identifying the areas that needs longer screws.

Im just asking if it will be better durability-wise, if I use longer Ti screws
on the suspension holders so I can use up all the thread of the arm mount
nut and thus provide more hold.

Thanks ü

mr crum

iTrader: (5)

yes longer screws in the suspension holders is a must exspecially if u rum 3 degrees rear toe like most people do i think i use 10 or 14 mm length screws just on the rear suspension mounts

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Hey thanks. But will it matter if I use Ti or just ordinary hardware hex screw?

The 3 degrees rear toe-in is "total"? I mean 1.5 toe-in left and
right = 3 degrees? Or 3 degrees for each side?

mr crum

iTrader: (5)

well odviously titanium screws are stronger than regular steel but use wat u got and its 3 degrees each side a 1mm shim is 1.2 degrees

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Right now Im using the 1.5 shim on each side which equates to 1.8 degrees?

Im setting this up for speed runs. Do you think I should put more toe-in?
What shims are needed to achieve 3 degrees toe-in? Or am I just
fine with the 1.5 shim?

Thanks again man ü

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

I missed your post Tim... You are probably right. You had it all set up almost perfect. The problem all started with the new chassis.

See you Wednesday.

petk

The screws supplied with the kit are just fine, no need to exchange them with longer ones.

When tightening them bear in mind they are 3 mm, they are easily over tightened. Use your fingers to tighten them, instead of the entire arm.

The end cap of a brushless motor (alu can) is around 4 mm, so a motor screw longer than 6 mm will just have the end hanging in the air anyway. With the risk of damaging the internals, as mentioned by others before.

The only places I have stripped anything is steering blocks and rear uprights, and always due to a hard impact. I'd rather exchange those, than bulkheads or hinge pins. Something have to give, when you put in the wall.

Put longer screws in the hinge pin holders, when you space out the A-arms. And use longer balls at the steering rods and camber links, if you run more than 2 mm spacers here.

Best,
Peter Knudsen

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Got it, thanks.

Right now Im using the 1.5 shim on each side which equates to 1.8 degrees?

Im setting this up for speed runs. Do you think I should put more toe-in?
What shims are needed to achieve 3 degrees toe-in? Or am I just
fine with the 1.5 shim on each side?

chrisfrom619

hey bro I have the same shims on car I think it's fine I've run my car from novak 17.5 brushless to 7700kv mamba max with lipos I never changed my rear toe-in. I see your from Manila (kumusta) I grew up in Pateros now I'm residing here in San Diego CA. Goodluck on your car it's a really good car wins a lot of local parking lot races here in San Diego.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

I believe you'll find this is, generally, incorrect. Titanium, in and of itself, is NOT stronger than steel, nor are titanium fasteners inherently stronger than steel fasteners. Something that DOES make a difference, in the case of Lunsford products anyway, is the fact that they roll their threads rather than cut them. It is the PROCESS, not the material, that gives them their "strength" advantage. Perfect example is pan car threaded axles. The Associated steel axles break comparatively easily at the first thread where the axle goes into the steering block. The Associated part has cut threads and these create natural stress risers. That first thread (basically against the "plate" created by the hex) is not truly supported by the material into which it is threaded. By contrast, the Lunsford axles I've NEVER seen one break. I've bent 'em, but I've never seen one break.

The material strength (all things equal) and weight line up in the same manner, least to greatest: aluminum, titanium and steel. Processing can alter that order, especially between titanium and steel as they are not terribly far apart, like for like, weight-wise. The difference between aluminum and titanium is far greater in both regards.

THIS is the information jsaves and I are looking for. We have been concerned that folks are confusing 3mm difference front/back with 3 degrees. Now if the mounts were some certain length apart along the hinge pin this could certainly be the case...and judging by your numbers they're not TOO far off (mounts would need to be a bit further apart to get to that magic 1 degree per mm threshold)...but it appears they're not. Is this information printed somewhere, the number of degrees per mm? We were about to embark upon a journey of measuring things up, using some trigonometry (thank goodness I'm a math teacher!!) and find out for ourselves, but if this 1.2 degrees per mm is definitively published somewhere we'd be beholden to you were you to point us to that nugget!! Save us a fair bit of work and head-scratching.

Toe is the enemy of speed. It will add stability, but it causes tire scrub, and tire scrup eats horsepower, loss of horsepower means loss of speed. Someone at Michelin once told me, and I can't remember the exact number, but if your family car is 1/8" out on toe-in it is basically dragging the tire sideways 100 feet for every mile it travels. Whatever the number was it depends greatly on the oa diameter of the tire but the idea still holds with our toy cars. It ends up being a balancing act, particularly in power-limited classes like 17.5 Stock or (worse yet) Vintage TransAm...you have to balance losing speed and acceleration to gaining the stability and handling characteristics of additional toe.

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

.8mm is equal to 1 deg of toe.


I have to disagree with the toe is the enemy statement. Rear toe is stability and forward traction.

There is no doubt that a car with 3 deg of toe (in any tc class) will produce faster lap times than any tc with 0 or 1 deg of rear toe.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

I don't disagree with you at ALL, Josh, but please note the context. He said he's doing speed runs, and while toe may produce faster lap times it absolutely creates drag. For lap times, as I indicated, we have to find that balance between additional toe for the traction and stability vs. the induced drag. It appears that "balance" for this car may, likely, live around 3 degrees. For an outright speed run that balance very likely lies much lower, like closer to zero.

Is that mm per degree toe spec printed somewhere that we might find it when I forget again (and I will)? Wasn't able to find it in the manual or on the AE site.

Many thanks,

Scottrik

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

If you measure the thin plastic 1 deg clips that come with the kit they are .81mm. 2 deg is 1.62mm.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

One those new bulkheads, are there any mods u need to do fit them on or can u just slap on?

losi guy

iTrader: (38)

For you guy's running the lipo plates, what are using for the screws for the battery strap? I bought the manutech tray and I'm using a smc 5000 lipo and the screws are to short to put my battery strap on. I really don't want to use tape but I will if I have to. Thanks.