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Old 12-20-2008, 10:00 AM   #8131
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hey everyone. we just got 2 itf chassis at my hobby shop. i went to put one on my car and i noticed that i couldnt tighten my bulkheads. upon further inspection i found that the chassis is countersunk two deep and the countersunk part of the screw sticks above the chassis. both chassis are this way. has anyone else had this problem? maybe josh or rick can shed some light. are they just defective maybe? thanx alot
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:11 PM   #8132
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Your xray is fast enough. I think you should just stick to that.

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Yea, your the one that got me thinkin' that way ....... but I'll give it another chance this Tuesday.
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Old 12-20-2008, 03:40 PM   #8133
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Extrememadness
Do to the ITF chassis plates being a little thinner, the counter sunk screws will be exposed more.
All I did was take a counter sink tool and do the bulkheads slightly. That should fix your problem and it will NOT hurt the threaded portion at all.
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:58 PM   #8134
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that will work but im wondering if the chassis is too thin in those areas now because this isnt a problem in the tc5r kits or are the bulkheads countersunk in the kits. im just wondering if there was a screw up on the chassis because they seem to be ok in the rubber car kits
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Old 12-21-2008, 06:38 AM   #8135
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start with an 88 spur and a 40 or 41 pinion for the novak race.........hunt me down when you get there and we will get you figured out.
Went out and bought an 88 spur ... and tried the 41 ... and I couldn't get mesh. I would need a 5 tooth larger pinion. What did I do wrong?
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:05 AM   #8136
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Yea, your the one that got me thinkin' that way ....... but I'll give it another chance this Tuesday.
Cool, see you tue.

DK
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:07 AM   #8137
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Went out and bought an 88 spur ... and tried the 41 ... and I couldn't get mesh. I would need a 5 tooth larger pinion. What did I do wrong?
That looks to be a mistake on my part.........A 98 spur and 46 pinion will definitly work
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:16 AM   #8138
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I've been running a 94t spur in both 17.5 and 13.5 foam classes. I think a smaller spur is needed for 17.5 when using a pinion larger than 56t - you run out of space when tightening the motor.
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Old 12-21-2008, 09:51 AM   #8139
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has anyone else had the countersinking problem on the itf chassis. just wondering if i should send it back or modify the bulkheads. thanx
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:13 PM   #8140
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has anyone else had the countersinking problem on the itf chassis. just wondering if i should send it back or modify the bulkheads. thanx
Use a shorter screw. Mine is flush and perfect. No need to mod anything.
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:39 PM   #8141
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Originally Posted by xtrememadness View Post
hey everyone. we just got 2 itf chassis at my hobby shop. i went to put one on my car and i noticed that i couldnt tighten my bulkheads. upon further inspection i found that the chassis is countersunk two deep and the countersunk part of the screw sticks above the chassis. both chassis are this way. has anyone else had this problem? maybe josh or rick can shed some light. are they just defective maybe? thanx alot
The ITF Chassis is 2mm thick. When any company countersinks 2mm carbon they can choose to partially countersink and let all the screw heads stick out the bottom of the chassis or make them flush and have part of the scews taper pop out the top of the chassis and hit all the alloy parts. If they chose the latter you will need to get a countersink and relieve the bottom of all the alloy parts that screw to the chassis if the manufacturer has not done so already.
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:49 PM   #8142
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hey guys im having trouble with breaking bone blades i know the ultimate way to quit from breaking them is to not hit stuff but im not that good so does anybody make a spool that doesnt take bone blades or should i run the slipper spool thanks in advance for the help
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:08 PM   #8143
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Mr crum,

I recommend running the slipper spool.

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hey guys im having trouble with breaking bone blades i know the ultimate way to quit from breaking them is to not hit stuff but im not that good so does anybody make a spool that doesnt take bone blades or should i run the slipper spool thanks in advance for the help
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:42 PM   #8144
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thanx adrian. i agree with you, but i just dont think you should have to do this modification. it should of been done by associated unless its a defect. i cant imagine associated expecting everyone with a rubber kit and itf chassis to have to counter sink a relief in the bulkheads. for example the tamiya 415msxx has a 2mm chassis and the screws fit flush and perfect so maybe they just need screws with a smaller countersunk shoulder?? i mean its no big deal for me cause i have access to a machine shop but alot of people might not or have the countersink bit. just my 2 cents.
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:59 PM   #8145
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Mr crum,

I recommend running the slipper spool.
thanks sherwin other than that ive been workin on getting smoother i kept breaking rear hubs but i moved the camber link to the whole further out on the wheel so the force is more up and down instead of the whole closest to the bulkhead thats where i had it when they kept breaking
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