649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-15-2016, 07:59 AM
#1531
Tech Adept
Hmmm.
Gear diff build, had one in my B5m and it had additional o rings which fitted in the groove in the outdrives; the b6 only seems to have external o rings which sit around outdrives/in gear case.
If I'm being confusing check the B5m gear diff supplement on AE or PetitRC vs the B6 manual and you should see the ones that are missing?
So are they missing from box and manual? (Seems unlikely)
Or is this an updated build for gear diff?
Gear diff build, had one in my B5m and it had additional o rings which fitted in the groove in the outdrives; the b6 only seems to have external o rings which sit around outdrives/in gear case.
If I'm being confusing check the B5m gear diff supplement on AE or PetitRC vs the B6 manual and you should see the ones that are missing?
So are they missing from box and manual? (Seems unlikely)
Or is this an updated build for gear diff?
07-15-2016, 08:04 AM
#1532
07-15-2016, 08:12 AM
#1533
Tech Apprentice
07-15-2016, 08:29 AM
#1535
Hmmm.
Gear diff build, had one in my B5m and it had additional o rings which fitted in the groove in the outdrives; the b6 only seems to have external o rings which sit around outdrives/in gear case.
If I'm being confusing check the B5m gear diff supplement on AE or PetitRC vs the B6 manual and you should see the ones that are missing?
So are they missing from box and manual? (Seems unlikely)
Or is this an updated build for gear diff?
Gear diff build, had one in my B5m and it had additional o rings which fitted in the groove in the outdrives; the b6 only seems to have external o rings which sit around outdrives/in gear case.
If I'm being confusing check the B5m gear diff supplement on AE or PetitRC vs the B6 manual and you should see the ones that are missing?
So are they missing from box and manual? (Seems unlikely)
Or is this an updated build for gear diff?
07-15-2016, 08:39 AM
#1536
Tech Rookie
Got the b6, impressed with the overall quality of the parts included. It seems to be the less common version of the cars. So I have finished most of the build, except wheels, tires, and electronics.
Did anybody with the b6 kit run into and issues with hardware not being correct in the manual vs what was actually necessary on the car at any given point. For example on page 10, step 5 it lists 6 3x16mm button head screws to hold the transmission together and at that point I had 8 3x14mm screws (I don't think any 3x16 screws were supplied in my kit at all). Also page 11 step 8 they list 2 3x8mm button heads to fasten the aluminum ball stud mount to the rear bulk head. These are at least 2mm short and do not begin to thread into plastic. Had to go searching for some 3x10s (one extra was provided in the extra hardware bag).
Also, totally my fault, but I accidentally put the plastic ball cups for the shock tops in the bottoms. At the point in the manual, where they tell you to put the bottom balls in you have to have opened the bag for the plastic balls, but not necessarily the metal balls that actually go there. So I put the wrong ones in and either destroyed or lost 3 out of the 4.
Again totally my fault for not paying closer attention. I think these parts are all carry over from the b5/b5m so had I built one I would have been more familiar.
A manual addendum would be great.
Finally the new ball cups seem to be getting great reviews but i had one split down the seam line while hand-threading it on. I hope it's just a fluke. I was a little rougher with the rest to test them and they held up so far. Besides that I love the design & fit. Anyhow had to sub a traxxas rod end from my spares until I get a replacement.
Anybody else experience these things? How is everybody's builds going or if you're done how's your driving going?
Did anybody with the b6 kit run into and issues with hardware not being correct in the manual vs what was actually necessary on the car at any given point. For example on page 10, step 5 it lists 6 3x16mm button head screws to hold the transmission together and at that point I had 8 3x14mm screws (I don't think any 3x16 screws were supplied in my kit at all). Also page 11 step 8 they list 2 3x8mm button heads to fasten the aluminum ball stud mount to the rear bulk head. These are at least 2mm short and do not begin to thread into plastic. Had to go searching for some 3x10s (one extra was provided in the extra hardware bag).
Also, totally my fault, but I accidentally put the plastic ball cups for the shock tops in the bottoms. At the point in the manual, where they tell you to put the bottom balls in you have to have opened the bag for the plastic balls, but not necessarily the metal balls that actually go there. So I put the wrong ones in and either destroyed or lost 3 out of the 4.
Again totally my fault for not paying closer attention. I think these parts are all carry over from the b5/b5m so had I built one I would have been more familiar.A manual addendum would be great.
Finally the new ball cups seem to be getting great reviews but i had one split down the seam line while hand-threading it on. I hope it's just a fluke. I was a little rougher with the rest to test them and they held up so far. Besides that I love the design & fit. Anyhow had to sub a traxxas rod end from my spares until I get a replacement.
Anybody else experience these things? How is everybody's builds going or if you're done how's your driving going?
07-15-2016, 08:59 AM
#1537
Did anybody with the b6 kit run into and issues with hardware not being correct in the manual vs what was actually necessary on the car at any given point. For example on page 10, step 5 it lists 6 3x16mm button head screws to hold the transmission together and at that point I had 8 3x14mm screws (I don't think any 3x16 screws were supplied in my kit at all).
Also page 11 step 8 they list 2 3x8mm button heads to fasten the aluminum ball stud mount to the rear bulk head. These are at least 2mm short and do not begin to thread into plastic. Had to go searching for some 3x10s (one extra was provided in the extra hardware bag).
The manual also showed 8 M3x10 screws for the second half of page 11, step 8 to mount the tranny and water fall onto the chassis, but I only had 4 and there are only 6 holes for screws. I had to use M3x12 screws for the water fall.
07-15-2016, 09:20 AM
#1538
so the online manual has all of the update/known errors fixed?
07-15-2016, 10:21 AM
#1539
Weird, I did not have any screw issue for the B6D. I followed the manual and measured each screw before putting them in. I was missing one screw, but they had one in the "spares" bag. but, I opened several bags and dumped them into a parts tray, then measured and grabbed the ones i needed. I didnt specifically follow the bag number closely.
07-15-2016, 10:28 AM
#1541
Nope, any B5 rear Hubs will work just fine. You will lose the ability to raise and lower the hinge height. This has become a very valuable tuning option already. Typically we've all been running the hubs +1 which had a good feeling ok med- high bite.
07-15-2016, 11:01 AM
#1542
I noticed the front shocks have alot of travel? the kit came with the same length shafts... kit went together well. but i dont see many set up sheets? we run high bite clay.... anyone have a good set up sheet? I need to get some springs as well. recommendations?
07-15-2016, 11:06 AM
#1543
Best set-up is to go practice and develop your own set-up for how you drive. If you want something to reference, look at Rivkin's set-up from the JC Spring Race. For ClubRC which I have raced at, laydown transmission for sure, stiffer springs and thicker oil.
07-15-2016, 11:07 AM
#1544
Get grey and maybe blue front springs.