Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated B6 & B6D thread >

Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree649Likes

Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-15-2017, 02:08 PM
  #7171  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Geelong
Posts: 209
Default

I'm thinking about getting a new buggy as parts are easier for me to get for the B6's. Apart from the electronics, is there any difference between the B6D and the Club Racer?
stuffandthat is offline  
Old 08-15-2017, 02:12 PM
  #7172  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
 
Krio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Posts: 5,718
Trader Rating: 159 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stuffandthat
I'm thinking about getting a new buggy as parts are easier for me to get for the B6's. Apart from the electronics, is there any difference between the B6D and the Club Racer?
The shock towers aren't carbon fiber, but that doesn't matter. 99% of everything else is identical, making the Club Racer a great deal if the included electronics suit your needs.
Krio is offline  
Old 08-15-2017, 03:53 PM
  #7173  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Geelong
Posts: 209
Default

What's better for the shock towers? Carbon or the fiberglass? I'm not too keen on the fixed timing motors so I might be better off going for a B6D.
stuffandthat is offline  
Old 08-15-2017, 04:20 PM
  #7174  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
 
Krio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Posts: 5,718
Trader Rating: 159 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stuffandthat
What's better for the shock towers? Carbon or the fiberglass? I'm not too keen on the fixed timing motors so I might be better off going for a B6D.
They both have good and bad attributes. Carbon are more rigid and a tad lighter, but are more prone to breaking.
Krio is offline  
Old 08-16-2017, 01:36 AM
  #7175  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 8
Default

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me what's going with B6 gear diff outdrives? Seems to be a supply issue in the UK. Rumour has it that AE are working on a new gear diff?

Thanks
stueys likes this.
88davidw is offline  
Old 08-17-2017, 03:57 AM
  #7176  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (48)
 
Jon Carlson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,918
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stuffandthat
What's better for the shock towers? Carbon or the fiberglass? I'm not too keen on the fixed timing motors so I might be better off going for a B6D.
I picked up one of both the 13.5 and 17.5 FT motors. Neither are slow. Don't be scared to give it a shot. Great motor.
Jon Carlson is offline  
Old 08-17-2017, 08:11 PM
  #7177  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
tsair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 979
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know if you can run B5/B6 V2 slipper hubs on a B4.x? It looks like the pads are the same, but are the hubs interchangeable?
tsair is offline  
Old 08-18-2017, 10:30 AM
  #7178  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 6,272
Trader Rating: 170 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tsair
Anyone know if you can run B5/B6 V2 slipper hubs on a B4.x? It looks like the pads are the same, but are the hubs interchangeable?
Yes, they are the same.
tsair likes this.
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 08-18-2017, 05:47 PM
  #7179  
R/C Tech Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (40)
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,094
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default Neat!

Red RC ? RC Car News » Team Associated Factory Team Ball Cup Wrench



RCBuddha is offline  
Old 08-18-2017, 06:38 PM
  #7180  
Tech Fanatic
 
serpentracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 778
Default

Well I havnt been racing in 4yrs and ran losi before I just pulled the trigger and got the B6D to start running again I havnt drove an associated car since the gold chassis and the org B1 looking forward to running again. Running mod starting with box setup and going from that point to get a handle on this mid motor craze. I got a few option parts cblock 25g D block I have plenty of springs also ordered laydown trans for when my tracks traction comes up in the winter with all the people racing .Is there anything else I should be looking to get thats functional and not bling that I might need later once I get used to running again. Also what chargers are good to have Im looking for one that reads the ir Thanks
serpentracer1 is offline  
Old 08-18-2017, 06:42 PM
  #7181  
Tech Adept
 
rubezzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 136
Default

Other than the laydown gearbox, is there anything else that needs to be added to the car to run it on astro?
rubezzz is offline  
Old 08-18-2017, 08:54 PM
  #7182  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 510
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rubezzz
Other than the laydown gearbox, is there anything else that needs to be added to the car to run it on astro?
If you are buying new the B6 comes with laydown gearbox. If you are converting from a B6D you will also need gear diff, springs, Gullwing (hard) arms, Gullwing carbon tower, carbon rear tower plus front and rear sway bars. Front brass bulkhead and the chassis weights will help get weight up to minimum.
E-Mann is offline  
Old 08-19-2017, 12:30 AM
  #7183  
Tech Adept
 
rubezzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 136
Default

Originally Posted by E-Mann
If you are buying new the B6 comes with laydown gearbox. If you are converting from a B6D you will also need gear diff, springs, Gullwing (hard) arms, Gullwing carbon tower, carbon rear tower plus front and rear sway bars. Front brass bulkhead and the chassis weights will help get weight up to minimum.
Exactly what I wanted to know, thanks e-mann
rubezzz is offline  
Old 08-19-2017, 01:04 AM
  #7184  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 887
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

I'm having some issues with my rear axles. I run the schelle hubs and bmi inserts. I was running the hd axles and mip pucks (in 67mm length). I put the AE 67mm axle conversion on the car tonight and when I crank down on the wheel nut, the clamping hex moves and binds the drivetrain. I didn't have this issue before and don't have the problem on my truck or 4 wheel. Any ideas?
Chris Brown is offline  
Old 08-19-2017, 06:40 AM
  #7185  
Tech Adept
 
rubezzz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 136
Default

Does anyone know what the part number is for the gull wing front arms to convert b6d to b6?
rubezzz is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.