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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-27-2017, 10:37 AM
  #6991  
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Here's a quick sketch showing the dimension that matters.

Imagine if this was one (weird looking) steering link instead of an overlay of two. If you removed either turnbuckle, it would behave the same.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-img_9700.jpg  
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Old 07-27-2017, 12:18 PM
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Default Rear end traction

I recently picked up the b6D kit built it and have driven it a couple times now. I'm struggling with rear end traction. My battery is all the way back,in the rear I'm running green springs with 30wt and 21 ride height all the way around. I usually run a med/high bite clay. I was curious if anyone had any tips for this.
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Old 07-27-2017, 12:23 PM
  #6993  
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Originally Posted by Mattmaroney
I recently picked up the b6D kit built it and have driven it a couple times now. I'm struggling with rear end traction. My battery is all the way back,in the rear I'm running green springs with 30wt and 21 ride height all the way around. I usually run a med/high bite clay. I was curious if anyone had any tips for this.
If you can post a link to the track you run on and a full setup sheet, our answers will be much more accurate.
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Old 07-27-2017, 12:36 PM
  #6994  
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I added a brass c block and then run the exotek battery brace so i was able to remove the waterfall and move the battery further back against the motor. Certainly helped but then again most of the fast pro's aren't removing the waterfall, etc so there are more than one way to attack the problem.
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Old 07-27-2017, 04:12 PM
  #6995  
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What about tires ? Are you running the correct tires for the track ? Are they broken in / Do you need to sauce the tires ?
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Old 07-27-2017, 04:15 PM
  #6996  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
My kit bones and outdrives are just about shot in my first B6D that I picked up in Feb... tinkering with the idea of 67mm bones. Do they really make a difference? Running stock at 22mm height.
In for the answer as well.
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Old 07-27-2017, 10:10 PM
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Which Rear wing is best to use, the short cord or long cord from Jconcepts, or whay other Rear wings are people using?
Which front wing, wide or narrow?
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Old 07-27-2017, 11:02 PM
  #6998  
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Originally Posted by daedalus
I added a brass c block and then run the exotek battery brace so i was able to remove the waterfall and move the battery further back against the motor. Certainly helped but then again most of the fast pro's aren't removing the waterfall, etc so there are more than one way to attack the problem.
I did the same except with a VRP battery brace. Definitely a noticeable difference in traction for me.
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Old 07-28-2017, 12:39 AM
  #6999  
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Originally Posted by daedalus
......but then again most of the fast pro's aren't removing the waterfall, etc so there are more than one way to attack the problem.
..... well ... there's a big chance that the common joe doesn't drive like those "fast pros" so that doesn't really count. The only way to know if it works for your driving style is to try it out.

I don't run a waterfall in my B6 and B6D and it helped me get more traction and better handling in high bite clay track and dirt loose track.
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Old 07-28-2017, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
..... well ... there's a big chance that the common joe doesn't drive like those "fast pros" so that doesn't really count. The only way to know if it works for your driving style is to try it out.

I don't run a waterfall in my B6 and B6D and it helped me get more traction and better handling in high bite clay track and dirt loose track.
Quoted for truth. Pro's are about the last place I look for setups. I'll start with one on similar track conditions but my trigger finger doesn't operate in the tiny yet highly precise increments of Cav so my waterfall is gone and my battery is way back, night and day difference for me.
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:25 AM
  #7001  
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Originally Posted by Mattmaroney
I recently picked up the b6D kit built it and have driven it a couple times now. I'm struggling with rear end traction. My battery is all the way back,in the rear I'm running green springs with 30wt and 21 ride height all the way around. I usually run a med/high bite clay. I was curious if anyone had any tips for this.
You didn't mention your tranny config, tires, etc.

I'm going to assume you're running a 3 gear standup. I maintain both a laydown and a standup rig. Both are easy to drive, but the standup is just plain fun because it has gobs of rear traction, steering when I need it (it has an off-power push through the corner and that's it - on power it rivals my laydown), and can be pushed hard, particularly when mashing the throttle out of the corner. And this is all with the battery in the middle position, not all the way in the rear.

Of course this is all contingent on the right tires
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-standup.jpg  
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:26 AM
  #7002  
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Originally Posted by Mattmaroney
I recently picked up the b6D kit built it and have driven it a couple times now. I'm struggling with rear end traction. My battery is all the way back,in the rear I'm running green springs with 30wt and 21 ride height all the way around. I usually run a med/high bite clay. I was curious if anyone had any tips for this.
I run Green rear and gray front springs / 32.5 front and 30 real oil / 12 g brass D / 1mm spacer inner ballstud rear /
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:42 AM
  #7003  
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Default Heavier Sway Bars...

Does anybody know if AE is going to come out with heavier sway bars (front and rear) for the b6?

Thank you,
Glenn
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:46 AM
  #7004  
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I think guys are using the B64 sways which will work and i think are heavier?
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Old 07-28-2017, 10:12 AM
  #7005  
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Are guys running the waterfall on carpet/astro????
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