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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-07-2017, 05:33 PM
  #6571  
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I am looking at running some of those avid +1 steering arms pieces. And wondering about the purple front springs. I have the stock setup right now and I tried the purple spring last week but it gave me way less steering than stock so I switched it back. I am wondering what would happen if I tried running that spring with the +1 steering arm plate pieces? The +1 will give more steering than stock correct? Can anyone compare stock setup to running the +1 pieces? My track really isn't super tight but just wondering. Here is a pic of my track and a link to a video. I could use a little
More steering but I don't want a ton more so that's why I was thinking maybe slap that purple spring back on and install the +1 Ackerman arm pieces. I was also going to install the schelle alum steering rack to stiffen it up a little
Oh... I was also going to buy the axle height pieces so I can run +3mm height instead of the stock +2mm. That would make the car easier to drive right?
https://youtu.be/FB-363ikjWo
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Old 05-08-2017, 01:01 AM
  #6572  
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My bad.

Last edited by Big_Show; 05-08-2017 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 05-08-2017, 05:14 AM
  #6573  
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Originally Posted by Big_Show
I would try a different spring, white to purple is a big jump 3.30 to 4.20. I would try blue, yellow, or red front springs.
This is a carpet car not dirt. I am running orange spring on front, that's what comes stock
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Old 05-08-2017, 01:58 PM
  #6574  
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
I am looking at running some of those avid +1 steering arms pieces. And wondering about the purple front springs. I have the stock setup right now and I tried the purple spring last week but it gave me way less steering than stock so I switched it back. I am wondering what would happen if I tried running that spring with the +1 steering arm plate pieces? The +1 will give more steering than stock correct? Can anyone compare stock setup to running the +1 pieces? My track really isn't super tight but just wondering. Here is a pic of my track and a link to a video. I could use a little
More steering but I don't want a ton more so that's why I was thinking maybe slap that purple spring back on and install the +1 Ackerman arm pieces. I was also going to install the schelle alum steering rack to stiffen it up a little
Oh... I was also going to buy the axle height pieces so I can run +3mm height instead of the stock +2mm. That would make the car easier to drive right?
https://youtu.be/FB-363ikjWo
I would try the .5mm bulkhead shim first, you can do it free with washers without having to buy anything.. +3 axle height is going to take away
some entry steering and make it less darty.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:03 PM
  #6575  
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Xr10 esc showed up. Looks pretty nice. Took the cover off my 180mm sensor wire to mount in groove. Used some e6000 to glue it in there. Pretty geeked about the new ride. Just tinkering. Any suggestions? Thanks
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-image.jpg  
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Old 05-09-2017, 03:28 AM
  #6576  
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Hi,

The B6d with stand up transmission will be easier to drive in low traction conditions.

Can always be converted to the laydown at a later date.

MiCk B. :-)


Originally Posted by fordsrule59
I am after some information.

I will be driving on a sandy to normal dirt track.

I have never driven off road before.

Should I get or what is the preferred car a RC10B6D or a RC10B6,

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:51 AM
  #6577  
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What handling charactistic does it change when you move the front spindle up or down using the caster hat bushings?
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:07 AM
  #6578  
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Originally Posted by JsK
I would try the .5mm bulkhead shim first, you can do it free with washers without having to buy anything.. +3 axle height is going to take away
some entry steering and make it less darty.
What do I do for this? Just stick .5mm shim between the front bulkhead and the chasis? What will this do for the handling?
Won't this raise the ride height? I thought what I wanted was lower ride height?
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Old 05-10-2017, 06:39 AM
  #6579  
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Hey folks, can someone confirm (or debunk) that the B6D diff is the same as the B5M diff?

I have been hunting for a solid answer, but can't seem to find a solid yes or no. I am looking to rebuild an old B5M diff as a backup for my B6D, but do not want to do that if they are not the same or need to be shimmed.
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Old 05-10-2017, 06:54 AM
  #6580  
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Originally Posted by CrawJac
Hey folks, can someone confirm (or debunk) that the B6D diff is the same as the B5M diff?

I have been hunting for a solid answer, but can't seem to find a solid yes or no. I am looking to rebuild an old B5M diff as a backup for my B6D, but do not want to do that if they are not the same or need to be shimmed.
The answer is in the first post. Please take some time to read through all of the information that has been compiled there for everyone's benefit.
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:00 AM
  #6581  
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Originally Posted by CrawJac
Hey folks, can someone confirm (or debunk) that the B6D diff is the same as the B5M diff?

I have been hunting for a solid answer, but can't seem to find a solid yes or no. I am looking to rebuild an old B5M diff as a backup for my B6D, but do not want to do that if they are not the same or need to be shimmed.
Sorry, debunked. If you buy new outdrives for a B6, part #91701, you can use the rest of the parts to make it a B6 diff. Hope that helps.
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:46 AM
  #6582  
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
I am looking at running some of those avid +1 steering arms pieces. And wondering about the purple front springs. I have the stock setup right now and I tried the purple spring last week but it gave me way less steering than stock so I switched it back. I am wondering what would happen if I tried running that spring with the +1 steering arm plate pieces? The +1 will give more steering than stock correct? Can anyone compare stock setup to running the +1 pieces? My track really isn't super tight but just wondering. Here is a pic of my track and a link to a video. I could use a little
More steering but I don't want a ton more so that's why I was thinking maybe slap that purple spring back on and install the +1 Ackerman arm pieces. I was also going to install the schelle alum steering rack to stiffen it up a little
Oh... I was also going to buy the axle height pieces so I can run +3mm height instead of the stock +2mm. That would make the car easier to drive right?
https://youtu.be/FB-363ikjWo
Purple fronts are pretty stiff. Used them on my B44.2 back in the day. Red front springs would be closer to AE Grey. I have tried reds and switched back to AE white.
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:59 AM
  #6583  
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Originally Posted by jasburrito
Xr10 esc showed up. Looks pretty nice. Took the cover off my 180mm sensor wire to mount in groove. Used some e6000 to glue it in there. Pretty geeked about the new ride. Just tinkering. Any suggestions? Thanks
Looks great! Only suggestion so far is that you're probably going to be very left-heavy. Just due to the nature of the motor mount alone, the vehicle is already very slightly left-heavy. By mounting the ESC to the left, coupled with routing the wires to the extreme left, you're probably going to be fighting some fairly noticeable balance issues.

This might be a bit of a PITA, but I would consider trying to move your ESC back and then positioning it slightly to the right (passenger side). Then mount the receiver - on its side - in front of the ESC. Depending on how it's balanced at that point, you might consider re-soldering the wires on the motor so that they sweep inward instead of outward.

If it's too tight of a fit to accomplish the above, an alternate strategy would be to simply reverse the ESC and receiver mounting positions, while still trying to mount the receiver on its side. This will put the ESC on the right while still being able to bring its weight close to the center line. This is what I ended up doing with my own, and it balanced the weight for me very well. I'm running the same ESC, and I actually dropped in a few grams of weight on the right side, too.

Before I made these changes, my car was very erratic coming off of jumps and when landing, and it had much more roll to one side over the other. IOW, it handled like crap
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:26 AM
  #6584  
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Originally Posted by CrawJac
Hey folks, can someone confirm (or debunk) that the B6D diff is the same as the B5M diff?

I have been hunting for a solid answer, but can't seem to find a solid yes or no. I am looking to rebuild an old B5M diff as a backup for my B6D, but do not want to do that if they are not the same or need to be shimmed.
racer i know moved his B5M MIP puck diff to his B6. he had to use two shims on it, and a CVA shim set on axle outdrives. like this below

https://www.amainhobbies.com/schelle...hl1230/p519483

don't use shims on B5, use shims on B6? perhaps the shims would allow a steel b5 diff to be used?
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Old 05-11-2017, 01:50 PM
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can anyone tell me how much heavier the Sworkz s104 rear wing is compared to a std lexan wing, like the AE b6 kit version?? Looking for increased durability, but not a tank!

I know, don't crash.....LOL
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