649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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09-01-2016, 01:23 PM
#2942
Can someone WIKI that thread? I would, but I can't seem to locate it.
EDIT - Nevermind, I didn't realize it was a post within this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/14637375-post1257.html
EDIT - Nevermind, I didn't realize it was a post within this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/14637375-post1257.html
09-01-2016, 02:18 PM
#2943
Tech Regular
I'm going to preface this by saying... I'm coming out of a nearly 20yr racing retirement. I need a hobby to break up the grind. Last time I raced... it was anoOriginal World's car. I've picked up and built a few AE kits to build (enjoy that as much as racing) for fun and played a little, but no racing.
Now I've picked up a B6 and B6D. It's great to see the tech advances with Wifi radios, brushless esc/motors and LiPos. By far the most confusing to me is the LiPo technology.
Question time... AE's site says "7.4V LiPo or 6.6V LiFe battery (saddle pack, shorty pack, or square pack)". Looking around the web, the manual, etc I've only seen shorty packs used. How would you mount a square or saddle pack? What would really be best form factor for some stock buggy racing? Recommendations on LiPo specs?
Now I've picked up a B6 and B6D. It's great to see the tech advances with Wifi radios, brushless esc/motors and LiPos. By far the most confusing to me is the LiPo technology.
Question time... AE's site says "7.4V LiPo or 6.6V LiFe battery (saddle pack, shorty pack, or square pack)". Looking around the web, the manual, etc I've only seen shorty packs used. How would you mount a square or saddle pack? What would really be best form factor for some stock buggy racing? Recommendations on LiPo specs?
If you're racing at RC Madness he has New Wave, Max Amps , CRC and others at the track. If you race in Fitchburg, he has a few brands there as well like the Team Scream stuff.
You also should get a charger that does at least 10A. 20A is even better if your budgets gets you there, but 10A is fine for club racing.
09-01-2016, 03:43 PM
#2944
09-01-2016, 04:27 PM
#2945
Smiley,
What front wing mount is that?
What front wing mount is that?
09-02-2016, 12:24 AM
#2947
Tech Initiate
Got my car built, all electronics in. B6D with laydown, neutral setup from manual. Ride height is higher than 23mm though. I let out the shock collars in the back and front, that lowered it some, but still at 27mm in the back and about 25-26 in the front. What should I do to get it lower?
09-02-2016, 12:54 AM
#2948
Got my car built, all electronics in. B6D with laydown, neutral setup from manual. Ride height is higher than 23mm though. I let out the shock collars in the back and front, that lowered it some, but still at 27mm in the back and about 25-26 in the front. What should I do to get it lower?
09-02-2016, 01:47 AM
#2949
Got my car built, all electronics in. B6D with laydown, neutral setup from manual. Ride height is higher than 23mm though. I let out the shock collars in the back and front, that lowered it some, but still at 27mm in the back and about 25-26 in the front. What should I do to get it lower?
09-02-2016, 06:08 AM
#2950
Lol yes. Also, we will offer (like the towers pictured on my car) option towers that eliminate the outer hole on the tower that never gets used. By doing this, You now have the far outside hole which is the normal middle hole on the stock tower, your normal inside hole, then a new middle hole between the two. 
