649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
04-22-2017, 01:30 PM
#6421
Our track is clay but a car that is aroud 1540 grms works a Lot better than a car at min weight. 30 grms makes a big differance on our traks in 2wd stock buggy.
04-22-2017, 02:33 PM
#6422
Tech Initiate
You could skip the c and D mounts and just move the battery back, I run the brass bulkhead and steel plate under the electronics and didn't have issues with it being nose heavy, but I'm not running stock. I also have the aluminum rack and Bell cranks.
04-22-2017, 03:07 PM
#6423
Thing is I don't have the weights. All those weights I mentioned would run me like $70 and that's a lot just to spend On weights so wanted to see if anyone has had a Similar setup for tighter track and whether or not it worked good. But I guess It's going to be different for everybody's driving style so I may just have to bite the bullet And buy all the weights And just test and tune
04-22-2017, 04:42 PM
#6424
A lot of the issue would be solved with setup.. but if I read your post right, you haven't run the track yet... I'd pick up some of those stick on weights and after running as is, use a couple of those in the areas where you think one of those weights would work for you,.. then you can buy the ones specifically made for the area...
04-22-2017, 04:42 PM
#6425
Personally I would start with the chassis weights. It also depends on what your car is doing now, is it loose? Do you have the battery all the way back already? If yes, try the brass C block. If you like the way it drives now, try the steel speedo plate. That will be the smallest weight bias change you could make. And of course if you want steering, try the brass or aluminum front bulkhead. I hope that helps.
04-23-2017, 02:33 AM
#6426
Thing is I don't have the weights. All those weights I mentioned would run me like $70 and that's a lot just to spend On weights so wanted to see if anyone has had a Similar setup for tighter track and whether or not it worked good. But I guess It's going to be different for everybody's driving style so I may just have to bite the bullet And buy all the weights And just test and tune
04-23-2017, 06:00 AM
#6427
A car is never faster simply because it's heavier. If adding 30g somewhere improves the balance, it's be better to remove weight from somewhere else (standard to low-profile servo?) to achieve the right balance.
04-23-2017, 07:20 AM
#6428
I agree a heavier car isn't faster but on our track they get better traction and turn better. I would love to run my car at min weight but I don't have enough tuning experience to get it to work when it's light. Also I am the only one running associated, all the fast guys are Tlr 3.0 and will be Tlr 22 4.0 next week. Would love to get any advice. Thanks
04-23-2017, 07:54 AM
#6429
My B6D is still going strong. I don't even fuss with the setup at all anymore. Normal setup on med- high clay is the middle battery position. If things get loose over time, I move it back one spot. I'm running the laydown, so this requires removing the waterfall for these two battery positions.
Doesn't get any easier than that!
Doesn't get any easier than that!
04-23-2017, 08:53 AM
#6430
setup
My B6D is still going strong. I don't even fuss with the setup at all anymore. Normal setup on med- high clay is the middle battery position. If things get loose over time, I move it back one spot. I'm running the laydown, so this requires removing the waterfall for these two battery positions.
Doesn't get any easier than that!
Doesn't get any easier than that!
04-23-2017, 01:45 PM
#6432
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
Need help with setting my shock stroke on my B6D. Front is calling for 20.5 mm and the rear is calling for 27.5 mm. When i measure the exposed shock shaft on both front and rear i only have about 1 mm(2 threads) left to install the end. I have taken the shocks apart 2-3 times thinking i did something wrong and i cant figure this out. I am measuring from the end of the blue cap to the shafts end. Am i measuring from the wrong area? I am using a dial caliper. Help,,,,,,,,,,,please.
04-23-2017, 02:59 PM
#6433
Need help with setting my shock stroke on my B6D. Front is calling for 20.5 mm and the rear is calling for 27.5 mm. When i measure the exposed shock shaft on both front and rear i only have about 1 mm(2 threads) left to install the end. I have taken the shocks apart 2-3 times thinking i did something wrong and i cant figure this out. I am measuring from the end of the blue cap to the shafts end. Am i measuring from the wrong area? I am using a dial caliper. Help,,,,,,,,,,,please.
04-23-2017, 03:53 PM
#6435
