649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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03-24-2017, 10:21 PM
#6196
Can you post a photo? Curious about electronics layout. Did you make those 2 changes together or independently? Which one gave you a bigger change?
Also, how much stroke did you take out going from outer to center hole on front shock?
Also, how much stroke did you take out going from outer to center hole on front shock?
I haven't. I lowered rear ball stud, went to the silver front spring and 32f/30r oil and I'm really close now. Super easy to drive, just 5% "safer" than it needs to be. 2nd qualifier coming up. I'm 8th out of 25 (that's with a 27sec lap on an 18sec/lap track), which is better than I've been lately.
03-24-2017, 10:27 PM
#6197
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Yep, lots of JC being run there, but anything clay compound works. I've tried a few combinations (AKA, Losi, JC) and they're all about the same with this car so far, but I don't have any PL's so maybe that's worth a go.
There's a kid who also runs a standup B6 and he's really fast (TQ'd stock when all the good guys were there). Our setups look really similar but he drives with his brakes a lot. My 22 3.0 had plenty of steering and the B5's did too. Not sure what to do here.
Things I've changed from stock, in case anybody has some ideas:
+1 steering arms
1mm ackerman spacer (stock is 2mm)
+1mm caster hat bushings (stock is 0mm)
Front shock in middle of arm w/2mm limiter (stock is outer, no limiters)
2* anti-squat (stock is 1*)
30f/27.5r shock oil (stock is 30/30, common is 32.5/30)
Battery in the middle, moved forward didn't seem to change much.
Tonight I think I'll take out 1mm of ball stud height in the rear to try to get it to come around more, and maybe go back to heavier 32.5/30, that change was to try for more fore/aft weight transfer. May also try the heaiver front spring, though I'm not optimistic for that without the lay-down, which I won't try until I'm confident in the setup I have.
This car is about the least sensitive to adjustment of anything I've ever run so I'm not afraid to mess around with it between runs. Got that going for me, I guess..
There's a kid who also runs a standup B6 and he's really fast (TQ'd stock when all the good guys were there). Our setups look really similar but he drives with his brakes a lot. My 22 3.0 had plenty of steering and the B5's did too. Not sure what to do here.
Things I've changed from stock, in case anybody has some ideas:
+1 steering arms
1mm ackerman spacer (stock is 2mm)
+1mm caster hat bushings (stock is 0mm)
Front shock in middle of arm w/2mm limiter (stock is outer, no limiters)
2* anti-squat (stock is 1*)
30f/27.5r shock oil (stock is 30/30, common is 32.5/30)
Battery in the middle, moved forward didn't seem to change much.
Tonight I think I'll take out 1mm of ball stud height in the rear to try to get it to come around more, and maybe go back to heavier 32.5/30, that change was to try for more fore/aft weight transfer. May also try the heaiver front spring, though I'm not optimistic for that without the lay-down, which I won't try until I'm confident in the setup I have.
This car is about the least sensitive to adjustment of anything I've ever run so I'm not afraid to mess around with it between runs. Got that going for me, I guess..
Green yokomo rear, white ae front. shock oil similar to yours. I should really generate a set up sheet.
rear hubs in forward position as well i think really helped a lot. I also went with a "narrow" width on the arms with the 3*toe/ 2* anti
also consider 21 mm front droop, 27 rear droop. Droop has tremendous impact on steering be it on power or off power.
03-24-2017, 11:32 PM
#6198
Changing to the middle hole, I added 2x of the thin black spacers to limit droop..
Radioctrlhead, when you say "droop", do you mean shock stroke (length of exposed shock shaft at full extension)?
03-24-2017, 11:41 PM
#6199
I tried the lower ball stud before changing the shocks. I'd say both changes had equal impact but I was a touch too soft before.
Changing to the middle hole, I added 2x of the thin black spacers to limit droop..
Radioctrlhead, when you say "droop", do you mean shock stroke (length of exposed shock shaft at full extension)?
Changing to the middle hole, I added 2x of the thin black spacers to limit droop..
Radioctrlhead, when you say "droop", do you mean shock stroke (length of exposed shock shaft at full extension)?
You dont need the prefabed shims, there just easier to put in. You could
experiment with washers just as easy.
03-25-2017, 05:09 AM
#6200
Tech Regular
You can run a 84 tooth spur gear on this car and still be able to use the gear cover.
I tried a 87 and its just too large. It rubs against the rear turnbuckles and gear cover wont fit.
I tried a 87 and its just too large. It rubs against the rear turnbuckles and gear cover wont fit.
03-25-2017, 07:02 AM
#6201
Hey JSK, I am ordering weights to have for tuning like we talked about yesterday. Have u ever added weight in the rear? I was thinking I'd get the 12g c and d blocks which would be 24g then I could add the 24g servo plate which is 48g total. Or would I be better off keeping the weight under the lipo and up front?
03-25-2017, 07:03 AM
#6202
Definitely considering it. I really like the stability the suspension has now, accelerates straight, jumps great, handles crooked take-off's/landings (wow, sound's like I suck...) really well so I don't think I want to mess with shock angles to free up the rear or tighten the front. My track has the Schelle shims so if I do it, I think I'll get them. Washers are easy, but I think they could weaken support for the front pivot. As far as I drive to go racing, saving a DNF is worth a few bucks to me.
03-25-2017, 02:26 PM
#6205
The B6 is so lite that I don't think that the weight is an issue. It is most definitely heavier than the stock stuff. The unit is solid. It won't bend. They are very popular. I lost one because I had a bad ti screw break off inside. If you need it, its a worthwhile purchase. If you don't need it, its money well spent compared to other stuff you could be buying [for your RC].
03-25-2017, 04:07 PM
#6206
The B6 is so lite that I don't think that the weight is an issue. It is most definitely heavier than the stock stuff. The unit is solid. It won't bend. They are very popular. I lost one because I had a bad ti screw break off inside. If you need it, its a worthwhile purchase. If you don't need it, its money well spent compared to other stuff you could be buying [for your RC].
I'll keep that in mind here.
03-25-2017, 04:14 PM
#6207
03-26-2017, 12:30 AM
#6209
Standard servo get more couple for less $$
adding weight in the front
adding weight in the front
03-26-2017, 02:27 AM
#6210
Hey guys for those wanting front bulkhead shims checkout bezerk Rc. He does really nice carbon fibre ones on 0.5 & 1mm. They are great and he ships everywhere. Goggle it