649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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03-23-2017, 05:06 PM
#6166
I'm not sure that we have enough info but if you're book set up and have some toe out, which would help, I'd think its tires but that's assuming everything else is perfect. However, after looking up the specs on that servo its likely that is the problem:
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .06
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 55.5
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .05
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 69.4
Spec-wise that looks like a pan car servo. Not suitable for 1/10 buggy. You need at least 100 oz-in of torque for a light 1/10 buggy and that's a bare minimum.
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .06
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 55.5
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .05
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 69.4
Spec-wise that looks like a pan car servo. Not suitable for 1/10 buggy. You need at least 100 oz-in of torque for a light 1/10 buggy and that's a bare minimum.
03-23-2017, 07:03 PM
#6167
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Looking to add a couple more upgrades to my B6. Mainly run on high traction (carpet and clay) below is a list of items I have upgraded already. What else would be good to upgrade?
- Jconcepts titanium turnbuckles all around
- schelle aluminum rear hubs (used from B5)
- aluminum C block
- aluminum D block (stock)
- brass bulkhead 25 deg 45 gram
- front jconcepts wing
Was looking at a couple upgrades and wanted some feedback
- aluminum steering rack
- aluminum steering bellcrank
- Mip roller pucks gear diff kit
- avid titanium steering screw kit
- Jconcepts titanium turnbuckles all around
- schelle aluminum rear hubs (used from B5)
- aluminum C block
- aluminum D block (stock)
- brass bulkhead 25 deg 45 gram
- front jconcepts wing
Was looking at a couple upgrades and wanted some feedback
- aluminum steering rack
- aluminum steering bellcrank
- Mip roller pucks gear diff kit
- avid titanium steering screw kit
03-23-2017, 07:10 PM
#6168
I was also thinking about running that brass front bulkhead. Is that a good upgrade for carpet tracks? Should give some more steering? I still haven't run the b6 but a couple guys at the track have them and they look like steering isn't an issue like it is on my xb2 but does the brass bulkhead help?
Also.... nobody ever gave me an answer about sway bars. Are front and rear sway bars a good choice for upgrade on carpet?
The other parts I am wondering about is hard arms and side rails. Are those worth getting?
Also.... nobody ever gave me an answer about sway bars. Are front and rear sway bars a good choice for upgrade on carpet?
The other parts I am wondering about is hard arms and side rails. Are those worth getting?
03-23-2017, 07:17 PM
#6169
Im running the brass 25g c block and a the aluminum 15g bulkhead. Also long rear tower with the b5m rear shock bodies and the shocks on the front of the arms. Running high bite clay and it is dialed in big time!
03-23-2017, 07:45 PM
#6170
However, after looking up the specs on that servo its likely that is the problem:
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .06
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 55.5
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .05
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 69.4
Spec-wise that looks like a pan car servo. Not suitable for 1/10 buggy. You need at least 100 oz-in of torque for a light 1/10 buggy and that's a bare minimum.
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .06
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 55.5
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .05
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 69.4
Spec-wise that looks like a pan car servo. Not suitable for 1/10 buggy. You need at least 100 oz-in of torque for a light 1/10 buggy and that's a bare minimum.
Anybody have a B6d (standup 3 gear) setup that steers?
03-23-2017, 08:00 PM
#6171
69 oz isn't optimum but it's more than enough for 2wd. I used to run a 50oz servo for several years with no negative effects. That's definitely not the source of the problem. I've been working on my car to get steering for a few weeks and I use a 115oz servo.
Anybody have a B6d (standup 3 gear) setup that steers?
Anybody have a B6d (standup 3 gear) setup that steers?
03-23-2017, 09:42 PM
#6172
69 oz isn't optimum but it's more than enough for 2wd. I used to run a 50oz servo for several years with no negative effects. That's definitely not the source of the problem. I've been working on my car to get steering for a few weeks and I use a 115oz servo.
Anybody have a B6d (standup 3 gear) setup that steers?
Anybody have a B6d (standup 3 gear) setup that steers?
03-23-2017, 10:08 PM
#6173
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Can you explain what you meant by the spring cups for ride height. I realize the collars can be adjusted but you also mentioned the spring cups. I saw some different sizes and didn't understand how they worked.
On another topic... I haven't actually received my kit yet and this is my first associated kit. I've always run X-ray. But I've heard some not great things about the quality of some of the shock parts.So I was going to upgrade to machined delrin Pistons, Delrin shock guides/spacers and new orings and bushings. Are these the part numbers that would be best?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91494/p507396
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...1070-b/p581245
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...-1.6-f/p252859
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91493/p275243
On another topic... I haven't actually received my kit yet and this is my first associated kit. I've always run X-ray. But I've heard some not great things about the quality of some of the shock parts.So I was going to upgrade to machined delrin Pistons, Delrin shock guides/spacers and new orings and bushings. Are these the part numbers that would be best?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91494/p507396
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...1070-b/p581245
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...-1.6-f/p252859
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91493/p275243
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-12mm-big-bore-v2-
Keep in mind if you buy the Avid shock standoff bushing that they only work with the Avid shock standoffs.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc-b6-b6d-shock-standoff-set-avd1070/p581244
I have these on on of my cars and I think they will be much more durable than the stock standoffs and bushings.
You can buy the Pistons. While I don't know how much of a performance upgrade they are compared to the stock ones or if I am good enough of a driver to notice you cannot go wrong with that upgrade. You may want to buy 1.6, and 1.7. These seem to be the most commonly used Pistons in most of the pro setup sheets.
The kit already comes with x-rings, but it never hurts to have extra seals for rebuilds.
Adjustable spring cups allow you more adjustability for the shock. At time with taller spring cups you could not screw the shock collar up on the shock high enough to set the ride height correctly. Yes for a given shock collar position the smaller the spring cup the lower the ride hight and vice versa.
Last edited by BuddyLee303; 03-23-2017 at 10:18 PM.
03-23-2017, 10:25 PM
#6174
Forgot how much I love this car and how good it is. I had been neglecting it for about a month since the 64D came out. Threw it down last night for the first qualifier with out driving it that whole time and squeaked out a TQ mostly because I was consistent. Looks like ill be running 2 classes for club racing now that my 64D is getting better.
03-24-2017, 03:04 AM
#6175
Looking to add a couple more upgrades to my B6. Mainly run on high traction (carpet and clay) below is a list of items I have upgraded already. What else would be good to upgrade?
- Jconcepts titanium turnbuckles all around
- schelle aluminum rear hubs (used from B5)
- aluminum C block
- aluminum D block (stock)
- brass bulkhead 25 deg 45 gram
- front jconcepts wing
Was looking at a couple upgrades and wanted some feedback
- aluminum steering rack
- aluminum steering bellcrank
- Mip roller pucks gear diff kit
- avid titanium steering screw kit
- Jconcepts titanium turnbuckles all around
- schelle aluminum rear hubs (used from B5)
- aluminum C block
- aluminum D block (stock)
- brass bulkhead 25 deg 45 gram
- front jconcepts wing
Was looking at a couple upgrades and wanted some feedback
- aluminum steering rack
- aluminum steering bellcrank
- Mip roller pucks gear diff kit
- avid titanium steering screw kit
03-24-2017, 04:26 AM
#6176
What does moving the rear shocks to the front of the tower do?
03-24-2017, 04:41 AM
#6177
I was also thinking about running that brass front bulkhead. Is that a good upgrade for carpet tracks? Should give some more steering? I still haven't run the b6 but a couple guys at the track have them and they look like steering isn't an issue like it is on my xb2 but does the brass bulkhead help?
Also.... nobody ever gave me an answer about sway bars. Are front and rear sway bars a good choice for upgrade on carpet?
The other parts I am wondering about is hard arms and side rails. Are those worth getting?
Also.... nobody ever gave me an answer about sway bars. Are front and rear sway bars a good choice for upgrade on carpet?
The other parts I am wondering about is hard arms and side rails. Are those worth getting?
electronics package. A simple solution is the brass weight plates AE sellls that fit under
the battery. The point is that there is alot of room to experiment with weight. Personally
I like the steel servo and esc plate with the aluminum bulkhead. The brass seems to slow
the cars transition down.
As far as the bars go i have seen the car run both ways on high grip, light(1500-1550) without
bars and heavy (1550-1620)with bars and stiffer front springs. Personally I think the heavy
cars are a bit easier to drive, but not really faster.
Hard arms are almost.impossible to find right now so i would skip them for awhile until they
come back in stock.
My advice, build it to the book setup thats quite good by the way and throw a 46 gram plate
under the battery to get it legal. Go drive it before you change it, you might be very happy
with it like that.
These cars are really good right out of the box. There are about 15 of these cars at my local
track in different trims and I really dont see anything offering a noticable advantage.
03-24-2017, 07:02 AM
#6178
Hey all, I am having trouble with understeering in the corners. I am using a savox 1290mg which I suspect the low torque may be the problem but I was wonder what else I can do to gain more steering?
Everything is stock on the front end except I have no spacers on the steering rack ball studs. I also appear to have a slight toe out on the front end.
Thanks in advance.
Everything is stock on the front end except I have no spacers on the steering rack ball studs. I also appear to have a slight toe out on the front end.
Thanks in advance.
03-24-2017, 07:18 AM
#6179
I would purchase these. I do not think the stock ones need to be replaced, but anything to make the shock better is a plus in regards to the fit of the sealing cartridge.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...m-big-bore-v2-
Keep in mind if you buy the Avid shock standoff bushing that they only work with the Avid shock standoffs.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...vd1070/p581244
I have these on on of my cars and I think they will be much more durable than the stock standoffs and bushings.
You can buy the Pistons. While I don't know how much of a performance upgrade they are compared to the stock ones or if I am good enough of a driver to notice you cannot go wrong with that upgrade. You may want to buy 1.6, and 1.7. These seem to be the most commonly used Pistons in most of the pro setup sheets.
The kit already comes with x-rings, but it never hurts to have extra seals for rebuilds.
Adjustable spring cups allow you more adjustability for the shock. At time with taller spring cups you could not screw the shock collar up on the shock high enough to set the ride height correctly. Yes for a given shock collar position the smaller the spring cup the lower the ride hight and vice versa.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...m-big-bore-v2-
Keep in mind if you buy the Avid shock standoff bushing that they only work with the Avid shock standoffs.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...vd1070/p581244
I have these on on of my cars and I think they will be much more durable than the stock standoffs and bushings.
You can buy the Pistons. While I don't know how much of a performance upgrade they are compared to the stock ones or if I am good enough of a driver to notice you cannot go wrong with that upgrade. You may want to buy 1.6, and 1.7. These seem to be the most commonly used Pistons in most of the pro setup sheets.
The kit already comes with x-rings, but it never hurts to have extra seals for rebuilds.
Adjustable spring cups allow you more adjustability for the shock. At time with taller spring cups you could not screw the shock collar up on the shock high enough to set the ride height correctly. Yes for a given shock collar position the smaller the spring cup the lower the ride hight and vice versa.
But anyways. I ended up buying some different parts but still got the machined spacers, avid bushings and the avid pistons. But I ended up buying the exotek standoffs cause they don't use the screw thru the tower. Instead they have the smooth part for the shock to rest on like the avid standoff but they also have a threaded section on each end that goes thru the tower and is captured with a nut on each end. I'm thinking the avid bushings will work with them. Hopefully anyways. I just don't think it is a good
Design to use a screw to take all the force. I was thinking it would end up bending then I would be replacing the standoff and the tower cause I couldn't get it out. I've had that happen before on another buggy.
03-24-2017, 07:45 AM
#6180
Tech Regular
My metal geared Savox servo is pretty fast. I had it in a 2wd short course. I moved it to my B6D with my Futaba Magnum 3PM 2.4 GHZ fasst.
Its like my associated servo I have and the center of the servo case is aluminum like a heatsink of some sort.
My B6D, my Custom Works Sprint Car, and my Open wheel mod short course are going to share the futaba just gotta get another receiver you can still get them.
Its like my associated servo I have and the center of the servo case is aluminum like a heatsink of some sort.
My B6D, my Custom Works Sprint Car, and my Open wheel mod short course are going to share the futaba just gotta get another receiver you can still get them.