649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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03-22-2017, 09:40 AM
#6151
Tech Regular
Make sure your ball diff isn't too loose or too tight.
A loose diff is a sign that you melted your diff gear.
I don't know what a tight diff would do but I wouldn't try that either, that's how you wear the crap outa your diff plates.
I check mine often I don't want it too loose or too tight in the middle.
A loose diff is a sign that you melted your diff gear.
I don't know what a tight diff would do but I wouldn't try that either, that's how you wear the crap outa your diff plates.
I check mine often I don't want it too loose or too tight in the middle.
03-22-2017, 09:50 AM
#6152
How do you measure front toe?
Buy expensive set up gauges specifically for off road car, eyeball it and not worry, two paint stir sticks against the front wheels?
Any suggestions?
Buy expensive set up gauges specifically for off road car, eyeball it and not worry, two paint stir sticks against the front wheels?
Any suggestions?
03-22-2017, 10:03 AM
#6155
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
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I would do it but I'm lazy.....Somebody needs to post a pic of this so people get it...
03-22-2017, 10:04 AM
#6156
How do you measure front toe?
Find a flat backboard spot to work off of. A work bench, a wall anything.
-Get your ride height gauge set to where the car will be set and lock it in.
-Adjust your camber gauge to the angle you want your toe.
-Turn the car on and line up the front tires so that both fronts are touching the backboard at the same time.
-Put the ride height gauge under the front and push the car down with 1 hand till it touches the gauge.
-with the other hand, put the camber gauge up against the backboard and slide it over till you touch the tire/rim.
-adjust the links till you have the toe you're looking for.
03-22-2017, 12:11 PM
#6157
This is how I do it after I get my camber where I want it and toe links are to spec.
Find a flat backboard spot to work off of. A work bench, a wall anything.
-Get your ride height gauge set to where the car will be set and lock it in.
-Adjust your camber gauge to the angle you want your toe.
-Turn the car on and line up the front tires so that both fronts are touching the backboard at the same time.
-Put the ride height gauge under the front and push the car down with 1 hand till it touches the gauge.
-with the other hand, put the camber gauge up against the backboard and slide it over till you touch the tire/rim.
-adjust the links till you have the toe you're looking for.
Find a flat backboard spot to work off of. A work bench, a wall anything.
-Get your ride height gauge set to where the car will be set and lock it in.
-Adjust your camber gauge to the angle you want your toe.
-Turn the car on and line up the front tires so that both fronts are touching the backboard at the same time.
-Put the ride height gauge under the front and push the car down with 1 hand till it touches the gauge.
-with the other hand, put the camber gauge up against the backboard and slide it over till you touch the tire/rim.
-adjust the links till you have the toe you're looking for.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-toe...pm70492/p38145
03-22-2017, 12:29 PM
#6158
Get one of these and be done with it!!
https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-toe...pm70492/p38145
https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-toe...pm70492/p38145
03-22-2017, 08:02 PM
#6159
Droop is adjusted by adjusting the shock shaft length. This is accomplished by either unscrewing or screwing the shock eyelet at the bottom of the shock making the shaft effectively longer or shorter. You can remove droop by installing spacers under the piston inside of the shock. You can also change shock shaft length by changing between long, medium or short shock eyelets. To increase droop you have to make the shock shaft effectively longer. To decrease droop you have effectively make the shaft length shorter. Some 4wd vehicles have droop screws that allow you to easily change droop settings by adjusting the droop screw. Look into your manual for this adjustment that is found mostly on 1/8th scale vehicles. You change the spring cups at the bottom of the shock to be able to attain the desired ride height you are looking to achieve for a given shock shaft length. It does not affect droop to change out spring cups.
On another topic... I haven't actually received my kit yet and this is my first associated kit. I've always run X-ray. But I've heard some not great things about the quality of some of the shock parts.So I was going to upgrade to machined delrin Pistons, Delrin shock guides/spacers and new orings and bushings. Are these the part numbers that would be best?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91494/p507396
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...1070-b/p581245
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...-1.6-f/p252859
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91493/p275243
03-22-2017, 08:11 PM
#6160
Can you explain what you meant by the spring cups for ride height. I realize the collars can be adjusted but you also mentioned the spring cups. I saw some different sizes and didn't understand how they worked.
On another topic... I also saw someone mention swapping the Stock rear hub for one that has the ballstud screwed into the top. I'm new to associated but I haven't seen a hub like that. Anyone have a Part no. For that style hub?
On another topic... I also saw someone mention swapping the Stock rear hub for one that has the ballstud screwed into the top. I'm new to associated but I haven't seen a hub like that. Anyone have a Part no. For that style hub?
Black: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Black
Blue: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Blue
You can get the Schelle machined pistons as well. They are available in numerous sizes.
03-22-2017, 10:01 PM
#6161
I have flat front arms with a 5mm shock spring cups up front but they contact the arm through some of the suspension travel so they kind of get pushed off the bottom of the eyelet and upwards rather than staying seated at the bottom of the shock.
Anyone have similar problem?
Would a 7mm front spring cup add clearance?
Anyone have similar problem?
Would a 7mm front spring cup add clearance?
03-23-2017, 05:02 AM
#6162
The different shock cups are there to better achieve proper ride height on various surfaces. They are not a tuning tool. As for the hubs, currently Schelle is the only company that offers a hub for the B6 that alloes you to take advantage of the vertical height adjustment of the stock hubs.
Black: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Black
Blue: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Blue
You can get the Schelle machined pistons as well. They are available in numerous sizes.
Black: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Black
Blue: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Blue
You can get the Schelle machined pistons as well. They are available in numerous sizes.
03-23-2017, 05:41 AM
#6163
I tore apart the transmission and opened it up. No binding of individual parts, no melted gears, diff isn't too tight, as a matter of fact I can probably tighten it 1/8th turn more. I determined that it's the new Schelle bearings that just need to be worked in a bit. I was able to spin each part separately without issues. So false alarm.
Make sure your ball diff isn't too loose or too tight.
A loose diff is a sign that you melted your diff gear.
I don't know what a tight diff would do but I wouldn't try that either, that's how you wear the crap outa your diff plates.
I check mine often I don't want it too loose or too tight in the middle.
A loose diff is a sign that you melted your diff gear.
I don't know what a tight diff would do but I wouldn't try that either, that's how you wear the crap outa your diff plates.
I check mine often I don't want it too loose or too tight in the middle.
03-23-2017, 04:51 PM
#6165
Tech Apprentice
Hey all, I am having trouble with understeering in the corners. I am using a savox 1290mg which I suspect the low torque may be the problem but I was wonder what else I can do to gain more steering?
Everything is stock on the front end except I have no spacers on the steering rack ball studs. I also appear to have a slight toe out on the front end.
Thanks in advance.
Everything is stock on the front end except I have no spacers on the steering rack ball studs. I also appear to have a slight toe out on the front end.
Thanks in advance.