TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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#2206
Lowering the EPA is the worst way to change the feel and hit of a low turn mod motor, in a light car, on high traction surfaces. Ultimately the best way to make the car more controlable is to go with something like a 13.5 of 10.5. A little more than a 17.5, that way you won't have to drive perfect line to get over some of the harder jumps (if your tracks have jumps that are hard for 17.5's), but not so much that it makes the car hard to drive for someone that is just trying to get into buggies.
Your car looks nice for sure. Just a word of caution,carbon towers don't like to spend time on the ground. 2wd Mod Buggies are a blast to drive.
Your car looks nice for sure. Just a word of caution,carbon towers don't like to spend time on the ground. 2wd Mod Buggies are a blast to drive.
#2208
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
RedBMaster - My bad, I was mistaken. I digress. Thanks for clearing all that up!
Here's my car. I will post pics of the completed build later or tomorrow. It's complete now but I'm not around to take some updated pics. Lots of upgrades. Will run mod buggy (7.5t) on med-high bite clay, carpet, and astro.
Here's my car. I will post pics of the completed build later or tomorrow. It's complete now but I'm not around to take some updated pics. Lots of upgrades. Will run mod buggy (7.5t) on med-high bite clay, carpet, and astro.
Damn, your car looks awesome! I'd be afraid to run it, lol
#2209
Tech Initiate
Do you know if all of the stock clutch parts will work with a 70t spur? I would like to try and run the recommended 70/31 for a 17.5 motor. Or do I need to buy a different slipper setup? Thanks
#2210
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
The plastic rack is out of a 22T 2.0. Note the longer bell cranks as well as the slightly different rack. Exotek claims more aggressive steering with this conversion and so far my experience seems to correlate that.
Now, with their 3.0 kit their product page states the rack has the same geometry as the TLR setup.
#2212
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
The Exotek v2 rack actually does have a different geometry compared to the TLR original:
The plastic rack is out of a 22T 2.0. Note the longer bell cranks as well as the slightly different rack. Exotek claims more aggressive steering with this conversion and so far my experience seems to correlate that.
Now, with their 3.0 kit their product page states the rack has the same geometry as the TLR setup.
The plastic rack is out of a 22T 2.0. Note the longer bell cranks as well as the slightly different rack. Exotek claims more aggressive steering with this conversion and so far my experience seems to correlate that.
Now, with their 3.0 kit their product page states the rack has the same geometry as the TLR setup.
#2213
#2214
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
As do I. It's the easiest way to "dial back" a motor that is too hot. I always go for a motor that's a little hotter than I need it to be for just that reason. I'd rather have too much motor and turn it down (if needed) than to not have enough motor that I can't turn up. It's the same sort of thing as the saying "It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
#2215
As do I. It's the easiest way to "dial back" a motor that is too hot. I always go for a motor that's a little hotter than I need it to be for just that reason. I'd rather have too much motor and turn it down (if needed) than to not have enough motor that I can't turn up. It's the same sort of thing as the saying "It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
#2216
Yeah I ran in to that this weekend. I was running a 9.5t in my 22-4 and couldn't boost it hard enough.
#2217
Tech Regular
Frank
Is the rear wing that comes with the 3.0 for sale separately or do they just come with the body. I looked on the Web site and seen the 2.0 rear wing and part# under replacement parts?
Is the rear wing that comes with the 3.0 for sale separately or do they just come with the body. I looked on the Web site and seen the 2.0 rear wing and part# under replacement parts?
#2219
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
As do I. It's the easiest way to "dial back" a motor that is too hot. I always go for a motor that's a little hotter than I need it to be for just that reason. I'd rather have too much motor and turn it down (if needed) than to not have enough motor that I can't turn up. It's the same sort of thing as the saying "It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
Eye candy: This is just my practice body, I will have a JC Finisher S2 painted by Jammin RC as he is local to me. Also still have to cut some wicker bill off.
Last edited by lyons238; 02-29-2016 at 06:43 PM.