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TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Matt Trimmings
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 02-29-2016, 10:06 AM
  #2206  
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Originally Posted by Les Vegetables
Lowering the EPA is the worst way to change the feel and hit of a low turn mod motor, in a light car, on high traction surfaces. Ultimately the best way to make the car more controlable is to go with something like a 13.5 of 10.5. A little more than a 17.5, that way you won't have to drive perfect line to get over some of the harder jumps (if your tracks have jumps that are hard for 17.5's), but not so much that it makes the car hard to drive for someone that is just trying to get into buggies.

Your car looks nice for sure. Just a word of caution,carbon towers don't like to spend time on the ground. 2wd Mod Buggies are a blast to drive.
Dustin Evans and I tune with EPA for throttle all of the time...
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Dustin Evans and I tune with EPA for throttle all of the time...
Obviously you guys are doing it the wrong way Frank....
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lyons238
RedBMaster - My bad, I was mistaken. I digress. Thanks for clearing all that up!

Here's my car. I will post pics of the completed build later or tomorrow. It's complete now but I'm not around to take some updated pics. Lots of upgrades. Will run mod buggy (7.5t) on med-high bite clay, carpet, and astro.
NP, glad I could help!

Damn, your car looks awesome! I'd be afraid to run it, lol
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
It does come with 23, 24, 25T servo horns. It does not include the 70T spur gear this time.
Do you know if all of the stock clutch parts will work with a 70t spur? I would like to try and run the recommended 70/31 for a 17.5 motor. Or do I need to buy a different slipper setup? Thanks
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster
Oh nice!

The OP mentioned the v2 mount which is clearly from the 2.0, and they also mentioned "improved" ackerman. So, not what he was talking about, but good to know there is some bling out there for those who want it! Still, not a effective tuning aid.
The Exotek v2 rack actually does have a different geometry compared to the TLR original:



The plastic rack is out of a 22T 2.0. Note the longer bell cranks as well as the slightly different rack. Exotek claims more aggressive steering with this conversion and so far my experience seems to correlate that.

Now, with their 3.0 kit their product page states the rack has the same geometry as the TLR setup.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mserno75
Do you know if all of the stock clutch parts will work with a 70t spur? I would like to try and run the recommended 70/31 for a 17.5 motor. Or do I need to buy a different slipper setup? Thanks
You just need the gear (TLR3978) and the slipper pads (LOSA3123 x 2), the rest of the slipper parts work perfectly with these.
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Old 02-29-2016, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
The Exotek v2 rack actually does have a different geometry compared to the TLR original:

The plastic rack is out of a 22T 2.0. Note the longer bell cranks as well as the slightly different rack. Exotek claims more aggressive steering with this conversion and so far my experience seems to correlate that.

Now, with their 3.0 kit their product page states the rack has the same geometry as the TLR setup.
Last time I checked, the increased aggressiveness of the steering was a claim based off of going from the old slider rack to their bell cranks. Other than that, that's exactly what I was saying, or trying to say, lol
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Old 02-29-2016, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Obviously you guys are doing it the wrong way Frank....
Haha Matt, #lifecoach lol
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Dustin Evans and I tune with EPA for throttle all of the time...
As do I. It's the easiest way to "dial back" a motor that is too hot. I always go for a motor that's a little hotter than I need it to be for just that reason. I'd rather have too much motor and turn it down (if needed) than to not have enough motor that I can't turn up. It's the same sort of thing as the saying "It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 68pontiac
As do I. It's the easiest way to "dial back" a motor that is too hot. I always go for a motor that's a little hotter than I need it to be for just that reason. I'd rather have too much motor and turn it down (if needed) than to not have enough motor that I can't turn up. It's the same sort of thing as the saying "It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
Exactly...
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:43 PM
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Yeah I ran in to that this weekend. I was running a 9.5t in my 22-4 and couldn't boost it hard enough.
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Old 02-29-2016, 04:58 PM
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Frank

Is the rear wing that comes with the 3.0 for sale separately or do they just come with the body. I looked on the Web site and seen the 2.0 rear wing and part# under replacement parts?
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fantomdude
Frank

Is the rear wing that comes with the 3.0 for sale separately or do they just come with the body. I looked on the Web site and seen the 2.0 rear wing and part# under replacement parts?
Is it tlr230002?
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Old 02-29-2016, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster
NP, glad I could help!

Damn, your car looks awesome! I'd be afraid to run it, lol
Thanks man! I spent a ton of time building it to my perfection.

Originally Posted by 68pontiac
As do I. It's the easiest way to "dial back" a motor that is too hot. I always go for a motor that's a little hotter than I need it to be for just that reason. I'd rather have too much motor and turn it down (if needed) than to not have enough motor that I can't turn up. It's the same sort of thing as the saying "It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
Exactly what I thought and my reasoning in getting a 7.5t. I also dial the expo settings so that I have a bit more throttle resolution, as to not gun it and zip into a bad situation, as I get used to a 7.5t motor in a buggy, this is something i learned when practicing with a buddies car.

Originally Posted by RedBMaster
Last time I checked, the increased aggressiveness of the steering was a claim based off of going from the old slider rack to their bell cranks. Other than that, that's exactly what I was saying, or trying to say, lol
Yeah, as I said I was mistaken. Appeciate the correction.

Eye candy: This is just my practice body, I will have a JC Finisher S2 painted by Jammin RC as he is local to me. Also still have to cut some wicker bill off.








Last edited by lyons238; 02-29-2016 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:09 PM
  #2220  
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Originally Posted by fantomdude
Frank

Is the rear wing that comes with the 3.0 for sale separately or do they just come with the body. I looked on the Web site and seen the 2.0 rear wing and part# under replacement parts?
Same part number, we just made a running change. The hump-less wings were actually shipped before the kit...lol.
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