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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-04-2017, 06:30 PM   #2716
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I believe your going to be in a pickle, unless your running 3s....2600kv on 4s you'd need a smaller pinion than the 2250.... But anyways, since you already bought it, keep us posted.
Either that or maybe just limit the current from the ESC. But then you lose a little torque if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 01-04-2017, 07:48 PM   #2717
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It will be fine, that's what dual rate is for. I do it all the time in other classes. Limiting the current (or punch control) will only slow down the acceleration, unless you really limit the punch it won't effect the top end much.
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:19 PM   #2718
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at some point to be honest there is only so much limiting etc you can do before you start noticing odd things with the motor performance. Considering the new gearing, heck I would almost consider a 1700kv motor on 4S as on some of the tracks here I was running a 16T pinion with a 1900Kv motor on 4S on the EB48 I had.

I wonder how that will translate over to a future truggy as from the ET48 days I was perferring a 1700Kv truggy motor for the available gearing range.

Looks like the vehicle is back in at tower hobbies!
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Old 01-05-2017, 05:33 AM   #2719
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My review.

Built this car last month. Should have come with washers for several places. Gearboxes had a bit of play between the ring and pinion and needed an extra washer. No matter how hard I squeezed those two together there was still play. Front and rear arms needed some too. Otherwise the car will be too aggressive. Axles also.

Center diff had internal gears not freely turning when screwed tight. Loosened it up a slight bit and the diffs were free, but then leaked. Needed to get extra diff seals to fix that.

With the outdoor setup, the front camber links had to be tight. I can't get more then -1 otherwise the turnbuckles dig too deep into rod ends and prevent it from moving freely. Rear turnbuckles have the opposite problem as if they will fall out of the rod ends if I crash.

Steering is so responsive I had to turn down the servo to 6.0v. Decreased radio's steering response too. Think I'll go back to 5 5 5 on diffs as it had a more predictable rotation then 7 7 5. Overall I like how it handles. Good car. Just wish the plastic gearboxes and hubs were made with greater precision or came with washers, and proper length turnbuckles.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:36 PM   #2720
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Surely this has been covered before but I am not able to find it. When switching to the HRC rear hubs what adjustments need to be made to the rear camber links? I know there is not a straight forward answer for this but I am building the kit with the stock setup to begin with but I want to use the HRC hubs I have on hand.
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:35 PM   #2721
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Surely this has been covered before but I am not able to find it. When switching to the HRC rear hubs what adjustments need to be made to the rear camber links? I know there is not a straight forward answer for this but I am building the kit with the stock setup to begin with but I want to use the HRC hubs I have on hand.
Follow stock setup, and you'll be fine. I didn't make any other adjustments besides the hubs.
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:36 PM   #2722
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Are the eb48.3 universals compatible with the.4 steering knuckles and rear hubs?
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:45 PM   #2723
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Are the eb48.3 universals compatible with the.4 steering knuckles and rear hubs?
No, the .4 components need to be run with the .4 universal's or the yet to be released .4 cva's. They are totally different and not interchangeable.
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:00 PM   #2724
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No, the .4 components need to be run with the .4 universal's or the yet to be released .4 cva's. They are totally different and not interchangeable.
Could they work with the EB48.1/2 spindles/hubs if the right bearings were used?
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:22 PM   #2725
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Could they work with the EB48.1/2 spindles/hubs if the right bearings were used?
Are you asking if the .3 uni's work in the .1 stuff or if the .4 works in the .1 stuff? Either way doesn't work. The .4 bone lengths are different and the stub axle lengths and bearing spacing are completely different as well.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:06 PM   #2726
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Are you asking if the .3 uni's work in the .1 stuff or if the .4 works in the .1 stuff? Either way doesn't work. The .4 bone lengths are different and the stub axle lengths and bearing spacing are completely different as well.
I was asking if .4 universals might work in the gen 1&2 cars, but you've answered that question.

I'd really like to try universals in my .2. and though I remenered or read that another manufacturers universals (Kyosho?) worked in the Tekno's with some modification before the .3 came out.
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:13 PM   #2727
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Originally Posted by rydaddy View Post
Surely this has been covered before but I am not able to find it. When switching to the HRC rear hubs what adjustments need to be made to the rear camber links? I know there is not a straight forward answer for this but I am building the kit with the stock setup to begin with but I want to use the HRC hubs I have on hand.
No setup adjustments needed. Check your camber and ride height tho.
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:17 PM   #2728
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I was asking if .4 universals might work in the gen 1&2 cars, but you've answered that question.

I'd really like to try universals in my .2. and though I remenered or read that another manufacturers universals (Kyosho?) worked in the Tekno's with some modification before the .3 came out.
I'm thinking you would have to get the .3 spindles, .3 c-hubs, .3 rear hubs and the .3 universals to get this to work. I could be wrong, but that's what I'm thinking.
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:03 AM   #2729
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I'm thinking you would have to get the .3 spindles, .3 c-hubs, .3 rear hubs and the .3 universals to get this to work. I could be wrong, but that's what I'm thinking.
Definitely the .3 rear hubs and C-hubs and 4 more bearings (same size as outer bearings). The Tekno unis are great but the Associated RC8.3B unis fit and cost less. Also, Kyosho unis fit, but you have to use Kyosho hexes with them 'cause the pin is smaller.
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:28 AM   #2730
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Definitely the .3 rear hubs and C-hubs and 4 more bearings (same size as outer bearings). The Tekno unis are great but the Associated RC8.3B unis fit and cost less. Also, Kyosho unis fit, but you have to use Kyosho hexes with them 'cause the pin is smaller.
Does anyone know if the .3 hubs fit the OG .1 arms fine? the ones with the 2 different inner/outer pivot locations?
I know this was what Eric was worried about not working on his setup.
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