Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
|
|||
#2731
Yes, they work fine. They basically just eliminated the inner pivot hole on the .3 arms.
#2732
Did the Kyosho Uni's work on the original EB48 hubs/spindles? If so I could drill the hex pin hole to the correct size.
#2733
Tech Master
#2734
The RC8B3 universals are no where near the quality of the Tekno shafts. They wear out very quickly. In fact if they really are interchangeable I'll put the Tekno universals in my Associated.
#2735
Tech Initiate
f
Last edited by Pro2wd; 01-10-2017 at 04:26 PM.
#2736
I can't speak to the quality of the Tekno unis. But I'm sure they're as tough as the rest of the car. But I've been using the Associated unis in my EB48.3 for months with no signs of wear.
#2737
My AEs had a ton of slop after a handful of races and the dog bone pins were completely done. Replaced them with Mugen pins which helped. The unis in my Tekno have more run time and still look / feel new.
#2738
does anyone know who posted the October setups for the EB48.3? It's indoor and outdoor.
#2739
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Does anyone know if the diff seals(tkr5143) and orings(tkr5144) are the same the Losi 8ight uses(losa3505). I just picked up a used eb48.3 and have a bunch for my 8ight and was looking on amain and they look alot alike and would like to know if I need to order the tekno specific set.
#2741
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
But I highly doubt the plastic one is vulnerable to breakage. So probably not something to upgrade if durability is your only concern
#2742
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
I think it's worth it just for the better fitment. I had to be careful when I screwed in the plastic part or else it made the center diff bind up. With the aluminum bit you can really crank everything down without tweaking the diff mount.
But I highly doubt the plastic one is vulnerable to breakage. So probably not something to upgrade if durability is your only concern
But I highly doubt the plastic one is vulnerable to breakage. So probably not something to upgrade if durability is your only concern
#2743
Tech Rookie
I'm thinking of the eb48.3 as my 1st kit. I'm not a racer or anything just have a sc10 rtr that I play with. Just found out about a few tracks 1-2 hours away so I would like to build a kit for racing/bashing is this something that would still be a decent racer for awhile? The durability doesn't seem to be an issue from everything I have read. The price of this kit is very attractive right now
#2744
I'm thinking of the eb48.3 as my 1st kit. I'm not a racer or anything just have a sc10 rtr that I play with. Just found out about a few tracks 1-2 hours away so I would like to build a kit for racing/bashing is this something that would still be a decent racer for awhile? The durability doesn't seem to be an issue from everything I have read. The price of this kit is very attractive right now
#2745
on the EB48.3.... Anyone running the M2C 4mm tapered hinge pins with the delrin bushings? Or the hinge pins that protrude thru the stock bushings with a 4mm nut on the backside so you don't have to disassemble anything when changing the bushings or pins? Which is better? I was thinking the tapered pins looked nice cause they rotate inside the bushing. Seems like that would make the suspension nice and free.
Also wondering what pistons most people are running for outdoor tracks with low grip. The stock ones seem to work ok but hoping maybe another setup might improve on it even more. I see M2C has a piston that uses an O-ring to slow down rebound or compression. Might consider those or just regular pistons. Any suggestions? Maybe the 3X2.1 pistons?
Also wondering what pistons most people are running for outdoor tracks with low grip. The stock ones seem to work ok but hoping maybe another setup might improve on it even more. I see M2C has a piston that uses an O-ring to slow down rebound or compression. Might consider those or just regular pistons. Any suggestions? Maybe the 3X2.1 pistons?