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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-21-2016, 10:54 AM
  #2701  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
So I just wound up cutting off the d-block to save me some cash since I already had an aluminum replacement on the way. I was just hoping I could save it until I had a proper breakage.
I hate that. Those blocks arent't cheap...lol. I've had this happen and I've always been able to eventually get the screw extracters to work. I believe it was only $10 for a set of 4 (forgot the sizes).
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
I hate that. Those blocks arent't cheap...lol. I've had this happen and I've always been able to eventually get the screw extracters to work. I believe it was only $10 for a set of 4 (forgot the sizes).
Well first I tried to cut a slot in the screw with a dremel but the screw turned to mush when I used a flathead to remove it. Then I used an extractor set from my dad but I couldn't get it to grab well enough. So that's when I decided to break out the dremel and cut away. But I'm getting replacements from Tony's Screws after Christmas so I can swap them out as needed. And I found a good ceramic grease to help the screws go in for the future.
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:12 AM
  #2703  
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I've read the whole thread and pretty sure people are using the Hobbywing XR8 and 2250 motor in the .3, but can anyone confirm this combo does fit? Getting ready to preorder the .4 and the esc/motor in a week or two and I am assuming the motor/esc mounting area hasn't changed. Thanks
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:50 AM
  #2704  
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any reason you don't want this buggy sized combo?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020405/p520596
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:51 AM
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I had thought about that, but our track is pretty big and after talking to some of the other racers some of them felt the 1900 wasn't quite enough sometimes. The 2600 seems like overkill and I'd probably be running it around 75% most of the time, which isn't bad but the 2250 seems to be just right. Kind of like goldilocks lol.
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Old 12-23-2016, 10:19 AM
  #2706  
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
I've read the whole thread and pretty sure people are using the Hobbywing XR8 and 2250 motor in the .3, but can anyone confirm this combo does fit? Getting ready to preorder the .4 and the esc/motor in a week or two and I am assuming the motor/esc mounting area hasn't changed. Thanks
Yea i had the same concern, but on the tekno team fb page some guys posted pics of their cars with the hw setup, one stated that the only issue was where to mount the switch
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:36 PM
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I would think with a 19t pinion on a 1900, you won't have any problems with long straights. It was enough for me at physcho nitro this year and that was a looonnngg straight.
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Old 12-26-2016, 01:17 PM
  #2708  
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
I've read the whole thread and pretty sure people are using the Hobbywing XR8 and 2250 motor in the .3, but can anyone confirm this combo does fit? Getting ready to preorder the .4 and the esc/motor in a week or two and I am assuming the motor/esc mounting area hasn't changed. Thanks
It fits in my truggy.
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-img_6875.jpg   Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-img_6914.jpg  
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Old 12-26-2016, 09:06 PM
  #2709  
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Exactly what I wanted to see, thanks!
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:44 AM
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with the sensor port on top of the motor (at least position wise) that makes it much easier to use a larger ESC. When I tried a different motor with my Viper ESC at the time, was just too big and the position of the sensor port (towards the bottom) would hit the ESC.

Not sure what Maclan has in store, curious though especially with that new processor they are pushing in the new 1/10 esc, hopefully they do a 1/8 esc that is more Tekin sized.

Outside of that, the new XR8 SCT Pro esc could be a very nice option too with more room at least in 1/8 4wd buggy.
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Old 01-04-2017, 08:25 AM
  #2711  
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
I've read the whole thread and pretty sure people are using the Hobbywing XR8 and 2250 motor in the .3, but can anyone confirm this combo does fit? Getting ready to preorder the .4 and the esc/motor in a week or two and I am assuming the motor/esc mounting area hasn't changed. Thanks
Originally Posted by nitrousdave
I had thought about that, but our track is pretty big and after talking to some of the other racers some of them felt the 1900 wasn't quite enough sometimes. The 2600 seems like overkill and I'd probably be running it around 75% most of the time, which isn't bad but the 2250 seems to be just right. Kind of like goldilocks lol.
You might want to go visit the .4 thread instead of the .3

I have a feeling you won't be able to fit the 2250 as far as gearing is concerned.

The .4 has the gearing changed. All motors will be 1-2 teeth smaller for said motor. And I believe the MT guys have found out the smallest pinion they can get to mesh right is the 15t...

I'm running a 2100kv motor, so that puts me at 15t-16t..Maybe...I'm thinking the 2250 maybe be to big to be geared properly...But, we haven't seen any actual reports yet. I know Joe B is running a 1900kv with a 17t pinion...

Figure'd I'd warn you before you get stuck.
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:34 AM
  #2712  
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I'm new to 1/8 scale. I'm currently building an eb48.3. Looking at 4s batteries to run w my Tekin rx8/1900 system. What mAh rating do I need for a smallish (almost too large for 1/10 but almost too small for 1/8 scale) track?
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:59 AM
  #2713  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
You might want to go visit the .4 thread instead of the .3

I have a feeling you won't be able to fit the 2250 as far as gearing is concerned.

The .4 has the gearing changed. All motors will be 1-2 teeth smaller for said motor. And I believe the MT guys have found out the smallest pinion they can get to mesh right is the 15t...

I'm running a 2100kv motor, so that puts me at 15t-16t..Maybe...I'm thinking the 2250 maybe be to big to be geared properly...But, we haven't seen any actual reports yet. I know Joe B is running a 1900kv with a 17t pinion...

Figure'd I'd warn you before you get stuck.

I ended up going with the 2600, you can always turn it down but not always the other way around. Plus I wasn't real comfortable with how close the bigger motor is.
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00
I'm new to 1/8 scale. I'm currently building an eb48.3. Looking at 4s batteries to run w my Tekin rx8/1900 system. What mAh rating do I need for a smallish (almost too large for 1/10 but almost too small for 1/8 scale) track?
I run on a similar sized track and use the Tekin T8i 1950. I run either the SMC 3600mAh or 4500mAh 4s packs

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...ory&path=67_96
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Old 01-04-2017, 06:19 PM
  #2715  
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00
I'm new to 1/8 scale. I'm currently building an eb48.3. Looking at 4s batteries to run w my Tekin rx8/1900 system. What mAh rating do I need for a smallish (almost too large for 1/10 but almost too small for 1/8 scale) track?
5000 Mah full size packs...Or smc's 5200mah.

Originally Posted by nitrousdave
I ended up going with the 2600, you can always turn it down but not always the other way around. Plus I wasn't real comfortable with how close the bigger motor is.
I believe your going to be in a pickle, unless your running 3s....2600kv on 4s you'd need a smaller pinion than the 2250.... But anyways, since you already bought it, keep us posted.
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