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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-25-2015, 10:35 PM   #931
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Will +3 SC10 4x4 wheels put me wider than ROAR rules? All my wheels are DE +3mm. What is the max legal width?
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Old 05-25-2015, 11:42 PM   #932
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Will +3 SC10 4x4 wheels put me wider than ROAR rules? All my wheels are DE +3mm. What is the max legal width?
The max legal width is 296mm. For 4x4 short course it is supposed to be measured at the axle centers but I haven't raced anywhere where that's been the case. Most places measure overall width (which can be affected by camber and toe angles) with a big gauge/cutout, or they place the truck in a box and see if it rolls out.
Either way I don't see the +3s being legal, even if you ran very little camber and toe.
That being said, unless you're running at an actual ROAR event, I wouldn't worry about it, just run the +3s.
Lastly, I'm assuming that all your tires are already glued to these +3 rims
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:09 AM   #933
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
I would try lowering the center diff weight to allow the front to pull a little more. All depends on driving style but 10/10/7 might be a little high all the way around for anything except high bite stuff.
This weekend I finally got to race my truck for the second time. I had the right tires, tried laying my rear shocks down, changed my anti-squat (flattened my arms) and the rear was still a little loose. (I noticed that, as someone posted, the rear was more loose off-power with flatter arms)

So I'll be changing my anti-squat back to how it was and lowering my center diff fluid. Do you think that putting 7k in it will be enough of a change? Or should I put 5k in it?

Regardless, I placed 5th in the a-main with this truck my 2nd time ever running this class. It was a pretty big memorial day race with 3 full heats of CORR truck and I beat some really talented drivers so, even though the truck isn't quite where I want it yet, it is still amazing and the steering and stability it has is incredible.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:18 AM   #934
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in general with the older vehicle when I had rear traction issues the thing that seemed to help the most was going lighter on the rear diff fluid. I was down to 2K at one point and liked it alot.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:36 AM   #935
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Removing the rear brace planted the rear end too.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:41 AM   #936
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Removing the rear brace planted the rear end too.
Both my rear brace and center diff brace were removed as well.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:32 AM   #937
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What springs come stock on the 410.3?? What springs should I buy to have in the arsenal?
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:15 AM   #938
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Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
This weekend I finally got to race my truck for the second time. I had the right tires, tried laying my rear shocks down, changed my anti-squat (flattened my arms) and the rear was still a little loose. (I noticed that, as someone posted, the rear was more loose off-power with flatter arms)

So I'll be changing my anti-squat back to how it was and lowering my center diff fluid. Do you think that putting 7k in it will be enough of a change? Or should I put 5k in it?

Regardless, I placed 5th in the a-main with this truck my 2nd time ever running this class. It was a pretty big memorial day race with 3 full heats of CORR truck and I beat some really talented drivers so, even though the truck isn't quite where I want it yet, it is still amazing and the steering and stability it has is incredible.
Stand your rear shocks back up (out on the tower) if you're loose in the rear. Laying them down is most likely what caused the loose off power feeling, not taking out antisquat. Less antisquat will give you more rear traction into a turn because it's allowing the suspension to be more effective through the turn. To exaggerate my point, imagine if you ran 90 of antisquat (arms vertical)- through a turn, the suspension wouldn't be able to compress and the car would just slide. This applies to accelerating in a straight line as well. With the arms vertical, the suspension can't compress and the car would do a wheelie if there was enough traction.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:04 PM   #939
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
This weekend I noticed that when I'm at a hard steering point my wheels are rubbing so I had to back off my EPA to make sure it didn't. Everything appears tight but I lost a TON of steering since I had to make such drastic changes to my EPA. What can I look for that may fix this?
I wouldn't worry about this at all. Put the steering EPA back where you want it and let it rub a little. The original truck was like this as well and we didn't have any trouble with it. We wanted to maximize the strength of the arm which is why it's a little thick at that spot.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:15 PM   #940
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Sometimes luck overcomes skill. I only had one set of Blockades for both qualifiers and the main. They were well toasted after Q2. Good race, truck is still a little snap loose, but getting better and better.

I'm the pink/white truck.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:35 PM   #941
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Originally Posted by Shawn_S View Post
Sometimes luck overcomes skill. I only had one set of Blockades for both qualifiers and the main. They were well toasted after Q2. Good race, truck is still a little snap loose, but getting better and better.

I'm the pink/white truck.
great race. that one was a lot of fun to watch.
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:10 PM   #942
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Originally Posted by edonsohc View Post
was a slow blinking green led. I believe that is thermal.
From what I can find:

Slow blinking green is thermal. Red blink blink is low voltage.

http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...-09-SCTPRO.pdf
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:19 PM   #943
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Originally Posted by dave-man View Post
From what I can find:

Slow blinking green is thermal. Red blink blink is low voltage.

http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...-09-SCTPRO.pdf
and the thermal can't be shutoff either. dumb. I understand from a warranty aspect why it can't be shutoff, but dang.
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:22 PM   #944
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So what does remove rear brace really do on a low traction track i thought having the brace on to make it don't
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:35 PM   #945
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Anyone successfully used proline body mounts on SCT410? If so, did you use the proline body posts or cutoff the top of the Tekno body posts? Just wondering. The angles on the proline mounts don't match the body angles.
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