219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
|
12-08-2016, 02:18 PM
#4427
Thats very odd. I've owned 5 410 sct's .3 and original, eb's, et's, never had a hole poked in a bladder? There has to be something messed up in the way the shock is put together. Have you looked at the stack of orings and spacers in the lower shock body? I'd bet there is something wrong there.
Is it just fronts or rears?? If so maybe the shafts are in the wrong bodies (rear shafts in front bodies?)
You should not have to dremel anything.
Is it just fronts or rears?? If so maybe the shafts are in the wrong bodies (rear shafts in front bodies?)
You should not have to dremel anything.
12-08-2016, 02:31 PM
#4428
I agree, something is not right. The track owner that sold me the kit has never heard of it either. I'm having the problem in all 4 shocks so I don't think I have the shafts reversed front/back. I'm going to take one completely apart tonight and see if I missed anything. Very odd indeed.
12-08-2016, 03:18 PM
#4429
the DESC10 darn fast too and really a tough beast, but, again, same thing, durango support issues
12-08-2016, 04:53 PM
#4430
Oh by the way the shaft end with lock nut doesn't come anywhere near the bladder at full depth so that was not pushing on the bladder like I thought. Also my shock shafts are correct front and back. Not reversed. Thanks for all the help and tips.
Last edited by JoeRC123; 12-08-2016 at 07:14 PM.
12-08-2016, 05:16 PM
#4431
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
I may have figured it out with the help of Tekno tech support. I drilled holes in the top of my shock caps for vent setup and left a little flashing on every one. The pressure of the oil under the bladder pushed it up under the cap and got cut on this flashing. The shape of the cut matched the drilled hole flashing. So I'm cleaning up the flashing with a large drill bit and hopefully that should fix it. I'll post back after some track time.
Oh by the way the shaft end with lock nut doesn't come anywhere near the bladder at full depth so that was not pushing on the bladder like I thought. Also my shock shafts are correct front and back. Not reversed. Thanks for all the help and tips.
Oh by the way the shaft end with lock nut doesn't come anywhere near the bladder at full depth so that was not pushing on the bladder like I thought. Also my shock shafts are correct front and back. Not reversed. Thanks for all the help and tips.
12-08-2016, 06:15 PM
#4432
Well funny you should mention that. Both the hobby shop I bought it from and and Tekno say that this is the first they heard of it. Several months back (like last April) I did a search and found a guy had posted in July of 2015 that he had this issue and thought the vent hole was causing it. He said that noticed a hole in the bladder only when he thought to pull on each end and stretch it out. Only then could he see the hole. So people who run vent better make sure this hole is nice and smooth on the inside or plan on buying lots of bladders like me. I hope I fixed it. This is an awesome Truck.
Last edited by JoeRC123; 12-08-2016 at 07:16 PM.
12-08-2016, 06:18 PM
#4433
broke my first thing on the SCT410.3... and it's a strange one... shock bladder! Somehow got a hole in the middle... was very small, hard to notice until you kind of stretched it out, but it was leaking a good amount of oil because of the hole... a bit messy and annoying, but at least the truck still actually drove pretty well for about 6 packs after I noticed the leak, just filled a little oil every once in a while.
Question, I ran the stock vented setup, if i were running the emulsion setup I wouldn't have to deal with holes in bladders... think it's worth making the change for?
Thanks.
Question, I ran the stock vented setup, if i were running the emulsion setup I wouldn't have to deal with holes in bladders... think it's worth making the change for?
Thanks.
12-08-2016, 07:07 PM
#4434
Well funny you should mention that. Both the hobby shop I bought it from and and Tekno say that this is the first they heard of it. Several months back (like last April) a guy posted here that he had this issue and thought the vent hole was causing it. He said that noticed a hole in the bladder only when he thought to pull on each end and stretch it out. Only then could he see the hole. So people who run vent better make sure this hole is nice and smooth on the inside or plan on buying lots of bladders like me. I hope I fixed it. This is an awesome Truck.
Good catch!! thats a new one to me, but good to know the fix.
12-08-2016, 07:09 PM
#4435
Been trying 15/15/10 from stock and having issues with rear end being very loose now... I also changed servos at the same time from savox 1267 to mks 599 and at first the endpoints were too far but I feel like the servo is causing issues with it being loose tho.. Not sure if its the servo or the diff oil change that's making it a handful. ><
12-08-2016, 07:28 PM
#4436
what were you are before?
Assuming you went heavier all around (say you were at 10-10-5) I can see it being more loose for sure in the rear.
As for the servo, if you mean that it feels like too much throw at too little input, try putting in some negative expo on the steering. I use this on all my fast servos as it calms down the low end response. I run anywhere between 10 - 20% depending on the car and servo.
Assuming you went heavier all around (say you were at 10-10-5) I can see it being more loose for sure in the rear.
As for the servo, if you mean that it feels like too much throw at too little input, try putting in some negative expo on the steering. I use this on all my fast servos as it calms down the low end response. I run anywhere between 10 - 20% depending on the car and servo.
12-08-2016, 07:43 PM
#4437
I believe it was 5/5/5 before. Yeah it had too much throw at first, it actually popped the pin from the cvd it was turning so sharp. I put in steering limiters and adjusted the dual rate and whatnot... The truck was PERFECT before, but I wanted to see the new servo and thicker diffs would feel, and the truck is a mess now.
12-09-2016, 03:08 AM
#4438
Also picking the best body for racing is so hard.... My JC Raptor Xflow handles and jumps sooooo much better than my JC Illuzion HF.... In wanting to get another practice body since my HF is shreaded, and I want to use my Raptor for racing only. Thinking about getting another JC Raptor Xflow, or a Proline Flotek Raptor. Not sure how the Proline handles since I haven't owned one. What's everyone's top choices for bodies??
proline flotek raptor
proline flotek fusion
::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
proline flotek raptor
proline flotek fusion
::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
Last edited by shadaloo; 12-09-2016 at 04:14 AM.
12-09-2016, 03:50 AM
#4439
Topic was brought up just a few pages back.
12-09-2016, 04:18 AM
#4440
10-4, I was just looking for more opinions since there were only like 2-3 replies. Ill probably try the Proline Flotek Raptor (non-flotek looks awful) body finally, seems like a popular choice.
Last edited by shadaloo; 12-09-2016 at 05:59 AM.