219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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05-25-2015, 10:35 PM
#931
Will +3 SC10 4x4 wheels put me wider than ROAR rules? All my wheels are DE +3mm. What is the max legal width?
05-25-2015, 11:42 PM
#932
Either way I don't see the +3s being legal, even if you ran very little camber and toe.
That being said, unless you're running at an actual ROAR event, I wouldn't worry about it, just run the +3s.
Lastly, I'm assuming that all your tires are already glued to these +3 rims
05-26-2015, 06:09 AM
#933
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
So I'll be changing my anti-squat back to how it was and lowering my center diff fluid. Do you think that putting 7k in it will be enough of a change? Or should I put 5k in it?
Regardless, I placed 5th in the a-main with this truck my 2nd time ever running this class. It was a pretty big memorial day race with 3 full heats of CORR truck and I beat some really talented drivers so, even though the truck isn't quite where I want it yet, it is still amazing and the steering and stability it has is incredible.
05-26-2015, 08:32 AM
#937
What springs come stock on the 410.3?? What springs should I buy to have in the arsenal?
05-26-2015, 11:15 AM
#938
This weekend I finally got to race my truck for the second time. I had the right tires, tried laying my rear shocks down, changed my anti-squat (flattened my arms) and the rear was still a little loose. (I noticed that, as someone posted, the rear was more loose off-power with flatter arms)
So I'll be changing my anti-squat back to how it was and lowering my center diff fluid. Do you think that putting 7k in it will be enough of a change? Or should I put 5k in it?
Regardless, I placed 5th in the a-main with this truck my 2nd time ever running this class. It was a pretty big memorial day race with 3 full heats of CORR truck and I beat some really talented drivers so, even though the truck isn't quite where I want it yet, it is still amazing and the steering and stability it has is incredible.
So I'll be changing my anti-squat back to how it was and lowering my center diff fluid. Do you think that putting 7k in it will be enough of a change? Or should I put 5k in it?
Regardless, I placed 5th in the a-main with this truck my 2nd time ever running this class. It was a pretty big memorial day race with 3 full heats of CORR truck and I beat some really talented drivers so, even though the truck isn't quite where I want it yet, it is still amazing and the steering and stability it has is incredible.
05-26-2015, 12:04 PM
#939
This weekend I noticed that when I'm at a hard steering point my wheels are rubbing so I had to back off my EPA to make sure it didn't. Everything appears tight but I lost a TON of steering since I had to make such drastic changes to my EPA. What can I look for that may fix this?
05-26-2015, 12:15 PM
#940
Sometimes luck overcomes skill. I only had one set of Blockades for both qualifiers and the main. They were well toasted after Q2. Good race, truck is still a little snap loose, but getting better and better.
I'm the pink/white truck.
I'm the pink/white truck.
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05-26-2015, 01:10 PM
#942
From what I can find:
Slow blinking green is thermal. Red blink blink is low voltage.
http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...-09-SCTPRO.pdf
Slow blinking green is thermal. Red blink blink is low voltage.
http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...-09-SCTPRO.pdf
05-26-2015, 01:19 PM
#943
From what I can find:
Slow blinking green is thermal. Red blink blink is low voltage.
http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...-09-SCTPRO.pdf
Slow blinking green is thermal. Red blink blink is low voltage.
http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...-09-SCTPRO.pdf
05-26-2015, 03:22 PM
#944
So what does remove rear brace really do on a low traction track i thought having the brace on to make it don't